UKSaabs

Thought I'd nick this off some other site I found and post up here.

It would have been handy to have this last week, before I utterly killed the car, as it has (apparently) a test for the CPS which can be done from the driver's seat which I haven't come across before.

This is apparently for the '94-'98 9000's maybe for 900 and 9-3 also? Original author seems to have been manually transcribing, and there is some technical stuff there I've yet to get my head around, but if there are errors, please point them out. It's also American, so there may be stuff of which nobody has a clue to what they may be alluding to...



Engine fails to start – BUT it does turn over

Step 1 - Check fuses:
Fuse 23 – ECU supply, +30 circuit (always powered)
Fuse 13 – ECU supply, +15 circuit (only when key ON)
Fuse 14 – fuel pump relay supply to fuel pump.
Replace any blown fuses and go to step 2
(Note – 30 and 15 don’t mean 30 and 15 volts – that is just the SAE accepted name for unswitched and switched power – it should be around battery voltage when on).

Step 2 -Check the CHECK ENGINE light.
Ignition ON.
Check the fuel level
Does the CHECK ENGINE light illuminate and stay ON?
YES – Control module is activated
NO – check the +15 supply to the control module
NO – the CHECK ENGINE light shines weakly or flickers. Check the +30 supply or ground connection. May also hear a buzzing sound from main and fuel pump relays, and tach needle moves. (cause of some debate this point mr-tony1000)

Step 3 –Check the main relay-
Ignition OFF
Pop connector off DI cassette – connect a test lamp between pins 10 and 6 of the cable side of the connector.
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds (or more), then re-insert.
Ignition ON – the test lamp should light up for about 6 seconds and then go out.
Does it light up?
YES – Main relay is OK.
NO – Go to TEST 4(not Step 4) -Main relay check

Step 4 – Crankshaft Position Sensor test.
From Step 3, Turn the key to START (from ON) to run the starter motor after the test lamp has gone out. It should light up again.
Does it light up?
YES – Crankshaft position sensor is OK.
NO – A problem with the Crankshaft sensor or connection to the control module.

Step 5 – Check the fuel pump relay.
Ignition OFF
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds, then re-insert.
Ignition ON –listen for the fuel pump to run. It should run for about 2 seconds then stop.
Does the fuel pump run?
YES – fuel pump and relay are OK (Pump may have low pressure, but at least it’s trying)
NO – Go to Tests 1 and 2 - Fuel Pump/Relay check

Step 6 – Injector wiring check
Ignition OFF
Pop a connector off a fuel injector.
Connect a test lamp between pin 1 of the connector and ground
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds, then re-insert.
Ignition ON – the test lamp should light up for about 6 seconds and then go out.
Did the light come on?
YES – Main relay is still OK, and wiring to injectors is OK.
NO – check the wiring from the control module to the injectors.

Step 7 – DI check
Ignition OFF
Remove the DI, leave the cable connected.
Put 4 spark plugs into the boots, and connect up a ground to each one. IMPORTANT – there MUST be a spark plug in each position, and each one MUST be grounded. Otherwise, the DI may be damaged.
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds, then re-insert.
Ignition ON – the plugs should spark
Do they spark?
YES – DI is OK
NO – DI is probably bad.

Test 1 -Fuel Pump testing-
Jumper fuse 14 to fuse 22.
Does the fuel pump run?
No – check the wiring at the fuel pump, but chances are the fuel pump is bad.
YES – fuel pump is OK – Go to Test 2.

Test 2 -Fuel Pump relay Part 1
Ignition OFF
Connect a voltmeter between ground and fuse 14.
Remove fuse 23 for 5 seconds, then re-insert.
Ignition ON –The voltage should jump up for a couple of seconds, then drop back down.
What voltage did you see?
0 volts – Fuel pump relay may be dead. Go to Test 3
12 volts – There’s a problem with the fuel pump
Less than 10 volts, but more than 0 – dirty fuel pump relay contacts.

Test 3 – Fuel Pump relay/Anti-Theft
Note – this is for US anti-theft systems.
Ignition OFF
Remove the fuel pump relay. Connect a voltmeter from pin 86 to ground.
Ignition ON.
What voltage did you see?
12 volts – Anti-theft is OK, relay is bad
0 volts – Anti-theft module is keeping the fuel pump off.
Go to Anti-theft box on the right hand side of the passenger compartment, by the knee bolster. Make sure the contacts are OK. Jumper pins 9 to 21. Repeat Test 4 – if the fuel pump runs, the problem is the anti-theft module.

Test 4 -Main Relay Check-
Remove main relay.
Jumper from pins 30 to 87 on socket.
Does the Idle Air control valve click?
YES – main relay is bad. Replace or try cleaning contacts.
NO – Check wiring from pin 30 to battery +, and from 87 on out.

If this is ok, perhaps a kindly moderator might see there way to posting this in the Knowledge Base?

Hope this helps

luv

Tony

Excellent stuff.

I will keep this handy, might help with my missfire.

Nice find Tony. Dare i say it should be a sticky????

that should be in the knowledge base,,,very handy guide that,,,im sure it will save lots of people loads of hastle,,,thanks

a good methodical check list that thanks

I think the bumbling light that you try to portray yourself in is just a facade
Good write-up that, very handy

None of my doing, I am quite happy to appropriate stuff from other folk, but wouldn't try to pass off as my own, simply because (a) I always get caught and (b) I don't understand the half of it and feel silly when asked questions to which I haven't got the faintest chance of answering. Or understanding.

Anyway, this is all theory. In practice, it's too cold today.

The only ones I have reservations about are 3 and 4 as I always understood that cranking the engine over with the DI dis-connected would damage the electronics on the ignition side or does the connections to the two pins obviate that? I am not sure. Isn't there a test for CPS where you just crank the engine and if the rev counter doesn't move it is kippered?
Mike

As far as moving needles go, I'll quote Mr 9000parts from a related thread I had where CPS was potentially an issue:

"This does not apply to Trionic ECU'd 9000s. The rev counter wont move until after the ECU has decided the engine is running and then it will allow the Tacho to start working.

Older 9000s did exhibit the bouncing tacho though."

I've never seen my needle bounce and I've never seen the first generation 9000, so assume this to be correct.

I'll move this into the knowledge base.

As far as I am aware, Mike, the damage to the DI occurs when it is connected but there are no plugs installed.I suspect the ignition amp just keeps ramping up. I don't think there is an issue with it turning over with it disconnected (a technique I use, with plugs out, to prime the oil after serious engine work)

Thanks chaps - getting my wires crossed somewhere.
Actually Robert now you say that it does ring a bell.
Regards
Mike