95/96/99/c900 How too: Soccerball wheel furb instructions
Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 8:55 am
I will put this here first, then the mods can have a think where to put it -no not there.
Rob
I hope it helps one and all.
95/96/EMS/GLE Soccerball/Honeycombe Alloy Restoration
For Saabologist and others……………….
I have never done a full set of 96/97 soccers, but only one for pleasure (I will call these 96) but I’ve done plenty of EMS/GLE (I will call these 99) ones and although they are a pain to do and very time consuming, great pleasure will be had after the finished result and there will be many swoons at SAAB meetings + you can do the hard work on newspaper in the front room or as I did sat on a SAAB forecourt surrounded by SAABs in the glorious summers of 1978 onwards, when I was a lad, happy days, aye!
99 ones were rubbish from new when they came from the factory, with the edges of the lacquer lifting and going white, after a few hundred miles, they had spider legs running through the lacquer, if you have these type with lacquer still on them, the only thing to do is use Nitromors and plenty of it.
Early 99 were very similar to 96, later 99(yes! 900 had them also, before anyone shouts out) were black/gold holes, then turned on a lathe and then lacquered.
HEALTH AND SAFETY WARNING
Carrying out the below process will cause loss of blood, aching joints, and the underneath of your nails leaving you fingers, bleeding knees, if your in shorts, or Haemorrhoids if sat down on cold concrete, ZAPHOD can finish this bit off……………..
You will notice that the 96 wheels have a finish quite rough(ish) similar to orange peel, all this has to go if you want your wheels to look like the one in the picture posted below.
You will need:
Patience, TCP and plasters.
Clean bucket
Bar of soap
Wet and dry paper grades, 240/360/400/800/1200/2000(if you can get it, if not rub 2 bits of 1200 together and you will roughly have 2400.
A flat medium grade file and needle files
A piece of soft wood about 5mm thick x about 50/60mm
Other assortments of wood for wrapping flatting paper round
High quality flat (15/20mm) and 5mm soft touch-up brushes
Tin of gloss black brush ON engine lacquer
Small tin of Cellulose thinners
An old jar/mug for washing brushes in
A Green Scotch-Brite
Tac-Rag
Solvo Autosol
Smooth cotton clothes/pillow cases(the kids will never miss ‘em.)
I might have missed something off, I’ll have to have a print and think.
Get a full bucket of warm water and drop your soap in it
I had to do all the ones I did with the tyres on, (hence, nail departing finger, gets caught on rubber, hurts very much so!) with a bit of luck yours might not have, if they have not any tyres fitted I suggest that you rub all around the inside of the rims –where the tyre seals - with 240 and then finish with 600, you can now either spray the inside of the rims with Gloss Black or Silver and clear Acrylic Lacquer (don’t leave bare metal – personally I would go for black) the simple reason for this is – when/if you ever coat your tyres with something like Meguiers tyre dressing it will not matter if you smudge the rim slightly as you won’t see it, you will also not see the dust stuck to it as you do with Silver – I’m sure you’ve seen it.
So that’s your first bit over – easy – now you have some graft to do.
Over the years the black part can become brittle, (99s did, it came off in little sheets like “Pringles”) if it is, remove it all with Nitromors.
Have a good look all around the rim for curb damage and sharp burrs/cuts, if you have!!!!!, these will have to be dressed with your flat file, just take the tops of the sharp parts off, then wrap your 240 around the file and wet flat until the damage is flat with the circumference of the wheel. If you have a cut going around the edge, dress with the file and paper,(BEST DO THIS BEFORE THE INNER RIMS, SILLY ME!)
Take your green scotch-brite and key/rub all the black surfaces up (if you have any, they will still need rubbing though, even if they are plain alloy). Look in all the nitty gritty corners for bits of stuck on tarmac gravel/grit, furk out with a screwdriver or your finger if you have.
WASH WHEEL AND HOSE OFF – THIS IS DONE JUST IN CASE YOU HAVE ANY GRIT HIDING, AS YOU DO NOT WANT ANY GRIT UNDER YOUR FLATTING PAPER, IT MAKES A RIGHT MESS AND YOU WILL WANT TO SIT ON YOUR MUMS KNEE, CRY AND HAVE A TANTREM ON THE KITCHEN FLOOR.
Flatting
All alloys will differ, some may have a rougher finish, some maybe softer alloy, so only you can decide what grade of paper is required to rid the roughish casting marks which came from the casting sand or material used in the original casting.
Get your bucket!
I suggest trying a test area on the large ‘Honeycombe’ area first to see what is needed, once you have decided what grade, get flatting.
Where the spokes meet the honeycombes, you will need to fold the paper and gently rub in the corner – not to much as you will end up with a groove, the same goes for where the wheel meets the outer rim lip, use your bits of wood and keep looking closely, don’t over do it.
What you are trying to do is – getting the casting marks off, but still to leave some which is just visible, and I mean JUST VISIBLE – get some 1200 and have a little go and to see how muck effort it takes to make the surface FLAT and FREE from the previous flatting paper, if you are happy, keep on flatting, if not try some 800, then back to 1200, TRY VERY HARD WHEN FLATTING, ESPECIALLY THE FINAL PART TO FLAT IN A RADIAL MOTION AS IF YOU ARE A HUMAN LATHE, once you are VERY HAPPY, rub 2 bits of 1200 together and flat again, are you happy now?
Your prints on the ends of your fingers should now have disappeared and look like prunes, if you very closely look at the very ends of your fingers you should see very small miniscule holes have appeared and blood will be vacating. (he, he!), if not – and I’ve already said this to BIRDIEMANGO –yer not trying hard enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WASH YOUR WHEELS OFF AGAIN – THIS IS TO RID THE TINY BITS OF FLATTING PAPER THAT HAS DROPPED OFF –REMEMBER THE KITCHEN FLOOR? –YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
There are two things you can do now, you can wipe the wheels off with thinners/dry and then tac rag and paint all the black areas with your brush, be quick about it, if you smudge on the flatting area, wipe with a a damp rag with thinners (don’t dribble though). Once very dried and cured. Start with your Solvo Autosol, if your standing up and doing it, your shoulders will drop off, if you do them kneeling down, your knees will bleed – but at least you can use your body weight, but then your finger joints will kill you – no win situation really, no pain –no gain!!
………….or Solvo first then paint, but if you use thinners on your polished bits, they will go a funny colour and you will have to rub them again on the funny coloured areas, no real deal though, really.
…….you could also lacquer them (UGH!) with acrylic lacquer, but unless your very confident the lacquer will run like Niagara of the polished bits + the finish will have a slightly creamy appearance + your back to spiders legs.
…………..You can also spray the black bits after flatting the top surfaces with 600, wipe the excess off with thinners, mask the black bits off, using Stanley blades for the cuts, prime, (lightly – not thick) then spray the silver on and then clearcoat.
Right, I’m done I think, any questions, just ask.
Most of the above can be used for all types of alloys and metals – not steel; it will go rusty if you breathe on it.
Duration for typing this out: 3 Hours, 17 minutes, I hope that you can use it and maybe sticky it and if there’s any spelling or grammar mistakes, I don’t give a monkees.!!!!!!
Cheers for now.
Rob
PS Had a look through, please bare in mind that the now polished surfaces are naked to the elements, for show use mainly I suppose, but I would suggest a quick wipe with some 3 in 1 oil to add a little protection if using for prolonged periods, for gods sake don’t use them in winter, or do the 1000 Lakes with them on.
Rob
I hope it helps one and all.
95/96/EMS/GLE Soccerball/Honeycombe Alloy Restoration
For Saabologist and others……………….
I have never done a full set of 96/97 soccers, but only one for pleasure (I will call these 96) but I’ve done plenty of EMS/GLE (I will call these 99) ones and although they are a pain to do and very time consuming, great pleasure will be had after the finished result and there will be many swoons at SAAB meetings + you can do the hard work on newspaper in the front room or as I did sat on a SAAB forecourt surrounded by SAABs in the glorious summers of 1978 onwards, when I was a lad, happy days, aye!
99 ones were rubbish from new when they came from the factory, with the edges of the lacquer lifting and going white, after a few hundred miles, they had spider legs running through the lacquer, if you have these type with lacquer still on them, the only thing to do is use Nitromors and plenty of it.
Early 99 were very similar to 96, later 99(yes! 900 had them also, before anyone shouts out) were black/gold holes, then turned on a lathe and then lacquered.
HEALTH AND SAFETY WARNING
Carrying out the below process will cause loss of blood, aching joints, and the underneath of your nails leaving you fingers, bleeding knees, if your in shorts, or Haemorrhoids if sat down on cold concrete, ZAPHOD can finish this bit off……………..
You will notice that the 96 wheels have a finish quite rough(ish) similar to orange peel, all this has to go if you want your wheels to look like the one in the picture posted below.
You will need:
Patience, TCP and plasters.
Clean bucket
Bar of soap
Wet and dry paper grades, 240/360/400/800/1200/2000(if you can get it, if not rub 2 bits of 1200 together and you will roughly have 2400.
A flat medium grade file and needle files
A piece of soft wood about 5mm thick x about 50/60mm
Other assortments of wood for wrapping flatting paper round
High quality flat (15/20mm) and 5mm soft touch-up brushes
Tin of gloss black brush ON engine lacquer
Small tin of Cellulose thinners
An old jar/mug for washing brushes in
A Green Scotch-Brite
Tac-Rag
Solvo Autosol
Smooth cotton clothes/pillow cases(the kids will never miss ‘em.)
I might have missed something off, I’ll have to have a print and think.
Get a full bucket of warm water and drop your soap in it
I had to do all the ones I did with the tyres on, (hence, nail departing finger, gets caught on rubber, hurts very much so!) with a bit of luck yours might not have, if they have not any tyres fitted I suggest that you rub all around the inside of the rims –where the tyre seals - with 240 and then finish with 600, you can now either spray the inside of the rims with Gloss Black or Silver and clear Acrylic Lacquer (don’t leave bare metal – personally I would go for black) the simple reason for this is – when/if you ever coat your tyres with something like Meguiers tyre dressing it will not matter if you smudge the rim slightly as you won’t see it, you will also not see the dust stuck to it as you do with Silver – I’m sure you’ve seen it.
So that’s your first bit over – easy – now you have some graft to do.
Over the years the black part can become brittle, (99s did, it came off in little sheets like “Pringles”) if it is, remove it all with Nitromors.
Have a good look all around the rim for curb damage and sharp burrs/cuts, if you have!!!!!, these will have to be dressed with your flat file, just take the tops of the sharp parts off, then wrap your 240 around the file and wet flat until the damage is flat with the circumference of the wheel. If you have a cut going around the edge, dress with the file and paper,(BEST DO THIS BEFORE THE INNER RIMS, SILLY ME!)
Take your green scotch-brite and key/rub all the black surfaces up (if you have any, they will still need rubbing though, even if they are plain alloy). Look in all the nitty gritty corners for bits of stuck on tarmac gravel/grit, furk out with a screwdriver or your finger if you have.
WASH WHEEL AND HOSE OFF – THIS IS DONE JUST IN CASE YOU HAVE ANY GRIT HIDING, AS YOU DO NOT WANT ANY GRIT UNDER YOUR FLATTING PAPER, IT MAKES A RIGHT MESS AND YOU WILL WANT TO SIT ON YOUR MUMS KNEE, CRY AND HAVE A TANTREM ON THE KITCHEN FLOOR.
Flatting
All alloys will differ, some may have a rougher finish, some maybe softer alloy, so only you can decide what grade of paper is required to rid the roughish casting marks which came from the casting sand or material used in the original casting.
Get your bucket!
I suggest trying a test area on the large ‘Honeycombe’ area first to see what is needed, once you have decided what grade, get flatting.
Where the spokes meet the honeycombes, you will need to fold the paper and gently rub in the corner – not to much as you will end up with a groove, the same goes for where the wheel meets the outer rim lip, use your bits of wood and keep looking closely, don’t over do it.
What you are trying to do is – getting the casting marks off, but still to leave some which is just visible, and I mean JUST VISIBLE – get some 1200 and have a little go and to see how muck effort it takes to make the surface FLAT and FREE from the previous flatting paper, if you are happy, keep on flatting, if not try some 800, then back to 1200, TRY VERY HARD WHEN FLATTING, ESPECIALLY THE FINAL PART TO FLAT IN A RADIAL MOTION AS IF YOU ARE A HUMAN LATHE, once you are VERY HAPPY, rub 2 bits of 1200 together and flat again, are you happy now?
Your prints on the ends of your fingers should now have disappeared and look like prunes, if you very closely look at the very ends of your fingers you should see very small miniscule holes have appeared and blood will be vacating. (he, he!), if not – and I’ve already said this to BIRDIEMANGO –yer not trying hard enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WASH YOUR WHEELS OFF AGAIN – THIS IS TO RID THE TINY BITS OF FLATTING PAPER THAT HAS DROPPED OFF –REMEMBER THE KITCHEN FLOOR? –YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
There are two things you can do now, you can wipe the wheels off with thinners/dry and then tac rag and paint all the black areas with your brush, be quick about it, if you smudge on the flatting area, wipe with a a damp rag with thinners (don’t dribble though). Once very dried and cured. Start with your Solvo Autosol, if your standing up and doing it, your shoulders will drop off, if you do them kneeling down, your knees will bleed – but at least you can use your body weight, but then your finger joints will kill you – no win situation really, no pain –no gain!!
………….or Solvo first then paint, but if you use thinners on your polished bits, they will go a funny colour and you will have to rub them again on the funny coloured areas, no real deal though, really.
…….you could also lacquer them (UGH!) with acrylic lacquer, but unless your very confident the lacquer will run like Niagara of the polished bits + the finish will have a slightly creamy appearance + your back to spiders legs.
…………..You can also spray the black bits after flatting the top surfaces with 600, wipe the excess off with thinners, mask the black bits off, using Stanley blades for the cuts, prime, (lightly – not thick) then spray the silver on and then clearcoat.
Right, I’m done I think, any questions, just ask.
Most of the above can be used for all types of alloys and metals – not steel; it will go rusty if you breathe on it.
Duration for typing this out: 3 Hours, 17 minutes, I hope that you can use it and maybe sticky it and if there’s any spelling or grammar mistakes, I don’t give a monkees.!!!!!!
Cheers for now.
Rob
PS Had a look through, please bare in mind that the now polished surfaces are naked to the elements, for show use mainly I suppose, but I would suggest a quick wipe with some 3 in 1 oil to add a little protection if using for prolonged periods, for gods sake don’t use them in winter, or do the 1000 Lakes with them on.
)
)
FUDS FUEL FUFF FUGS FUGU FUJI FULL FUME FUMS FUMY FUND FUNG FUNK FUNS FURL FURR FURS FURY FUSC FUSE FUSS FUST FUTZ FUZE FUZZ FYCE FYKE FYLE FYRD
What you do with your hands makes the feel it in your soul, you feel everything, it gives you craftsmanship, it gives you perfection, it gives you pride.......you can only feel perfection through your fingertips, not through a drill, eyes, feel, touch, perfection, Nothing On Earth Comes Close......................I liked that I did..