UKSaabs

Sorry for digging a dead thread here guys, but i'm hoping you can help.

I bought a gates kit to replace the one on the 93 (120 in my case) as i did not know its history, the belt etc however was fine when removed. Upon seeking to install my new belt kit (including WP) I have come to find two things;

1) The yellow markers on the smooth side of the belt will not align with the cam sprocket marker AND the crank at the same time, it is one or the other but in no way will it ever sit above both. I have the belt set for clockwise rotation (arrows facing bumper when at the cam sprocket). The belt is rigged as per all the online illustrations and photographs, the belt is identical length the the removed one and the markers are in the same place on both - What am i doing wrong?

2) with my factory cam sprocket marks aligned and my factory crank marks doing the same, once the belt is installed at about 2'oclock on the crank sprocket i am hitting valves. I had fortunately marked the crank sprocket when the old belt was removed and find it is perhaps 30-45degrees different i.e if the factory mark is at 9 oclock, my mark will be at 6 or there abouts. Any suggestions as to why?

I would appreciate any help on this guys as obviously i do not want to have this vehicle require a new engine... I have turned the engine by hand countless times to check there is no internal contact and all is well - and it runs (although i havent driven it yet to say how well it runs). Is it just a case of something has been tampered with in a past life, or have i completely missed something - perhaps the cam could be out by 180degrees or something similar? Although that wouldn't work in my mind as the marks wouldn't line up except for the fact the crank sprocket does 360degrees to the cam doing just 180....

HELP!

Have you followed the correct route for the belt?

Routing is exactly that mate - although no idea what image 1 is showing?

from above:

Before you remove the old belt you need to get the engine TDC. To do this you align the crank pully notch with the notch on the outer casing, so at about 5'oclock as you can see in the pic.

Then this should put the white factory mark on the cam pully at approx 1'oclock. If its at 7'oclock you just rotate the crank pully round again (belt attached!!) so that the cam pully lines to 1'oclock. THEN if you need/want to you can mark the cam pully casing so you know exactly where the cam pully needs to be should it move when you take the belt off.

When you then put the new belt on. The GM belts have yellow timing marks. Get the belt the right way arouns and start at the crank. Line up the yellow mark with the notch alignment on the crank pully and come up the outside so that the next yellow timing mark then goes on the cam pully at exactly the white mark on the cam pully. Attach the rest of the belt to the diesel pump pulley (doesnt need any alignment) and round the water pump / tensioner, set the tensioner correctly (VERY important) and the belt is on...

Thats the same way i have done things mate except that my cam pulley does already have an indicator tab on the shroud that sits behind it - a triangular piece that points towards the sprocket to show its position. The indicator is in the prescribed position obviously. No matter what though with crank and cam lined up as per i find things fouling inside the engine unless set up as i have it now...

Hi Mate,

OK - so with the belt attached - align the crank pulley notch to the notch on the crank pulley casing (its at approx. 5'oclock)...

Once you have done that - post a pic of both the cam and crank pulley and there position...

Have you removed the cam pulley at all? on the 120BHP engine you have to remove the cam pulley to change the waterpump.

Also remember - the three yellow lines are NOT evenly spaced so you have to get the correct one on the crank to allow the next yellow mark to be at approx. 1'oclock on the cam....

Hi mate, cheers for your help.

Ive been driving the car and all is exactly as it was prior to me changing the belts.

With the Cam at its allocated 1-2 o'clock the crank sits nearer 7-8 o'clock - I don't have a picture i'm afraid but that is how it is and it is very confusing.

I did of course have the cam sprocket off but the keyway on this would prevent it being reinstalled incorrectly... ITs very confusing?

Ant, where are you based? I need a cam belt and water pump change on my 9-3 diesel.

How do I contact you? This site is not easy.

Hi - am here

Am based in Ashford, Middlesex (close to Heathrow).

A

Ant, Thanks for getting back to me. I need a Cam belt and water pump changing and am only in Brentford but as I am a new user the site is very restricting with regards to posts/messages! How can I contact you. Thanks. John.

Make two more posts and you can send him a Private Message. You need five posts to allow PM's.

A couple of rubbish posts will do....

Thank you.

Why is it made so difficult to use the site? All I want is to pass business to an enthusiast and in return get an excellent job done?

If there is no requirement to post a few reasonable posts, it opens the board to spammers to join and send adverts to everyone as soon as they join. It's an absolute nightmare for the moderators and members, as I know from other sites. In the end a requirement of 5 posts makes the use of the board tolerable for the genuine user.

But you have hit the five posts. You are free to do anything you want now!

Well would you believe it

At five years old and 55k I fitted a timing kit from a retailer that sells via retail outlets to BMW SAAB RENAULT drivers to my low mileage 2007 9-3.

Last week the non genuine water pump failed covering less than 25k miles and 3 years, the impeller had come off the shaft

Back on the road now with a genuine SAAB belt kit/pump fitted and thankfully no damage.

Redders wrote:Well would you believe it

At five years old and 55k I fitted a timing kit from a retailer that sells via retail outlets to BMW SAAB RENAULT drivers to my low mileage 2007 9-3.

Last week the non genuine water pump failed covering less than 25k miles and 3 years, the impeller had come off the shaft

Back on the road now with a genuine SAAB belt kit/pump fitted and thankfully no damage.

Very common mate I am afraid.. I will only ever fit Genuine.. If people ask me to fit anything else I simply wont do it...

Ant9-5Aero wrote:Very common mate I am afraid.. I will only ever fit Genuine.. If people ask me to fit anything else I simply wont do it...

I had my Saab master tech mate fit the kit that failed so it was fitted correctly. It appears that the tensioner was genuine but obviously the pump was of poor quality. This lot was fitted before you posted this thread up and ever since I first read it it's been bugging me that it might fail prematurely and it did.

I fitted the replacement genuine kit following these instructions with the WIS as back up, good thread Ant

So what would be the safe recommended miles for a belt kit and water pump?
The car I have bought had the belt snap due to the water pump failing ... poor guy had every service done including belts but obviously the garage didn't do the pump .. Engine is on 127k it was on 125k when it snapped.

Running fabulous now but I am thinking how long till I change it ....