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The place for you to start a thread about and show us your car.

(Please stick to one thread, rather than starting several threads for the same vehicle).

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 10:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2019 6:16 pm
Posts: 121
Location: Medway, Kent
Car Models: 2004 9-5 Aero Estate
Having owned the car for 2 years necessity and desire have combined to push me toward a restobuild.

Been running Stage 3 for a while now with a full 3" system and bosch 3.5 bar fpr, with signs that someone at some point was interested in the saab performance side of things with an Abbott strut brace, braided lines, abbott bov by the looks of things, lower suspension and fully polybushed but now is as good a time as any to start a few things again

To help guide why I'm going for certain components I will summarise my intentions for the car:
The car is being built around the idea of a GT car. I would like to do a lot more short breaks for cycling/skiing and a few more bigger roadtrips each year e.g. Sziget festival in Hungary. It needs to be able to get me to the Alps for a long weekend without worrying whether I'll be able to get back into the office the next week, so over engineering is important but I really enjoy the drivability and manners of the car on stage 3, and the automatic lends itself well to my driving style.

Currently in the pipeline are:
* hybrid engine rebuild by Tony Wallis at Saab Repairs Doncaster: B234 pistons, rods and head gasket, saab timing kit and reusing the remanufactured head I bought off of him last year as it's only done 20 miles or so
* standard td04-15t turbo has been given a mellet core
* KL Racing intercooler, offers better value for my application than a do88 can
* winner racing radiator (ebay special)
* POR15 subframe repaint - seemed best option
* 314mm brake upgrade
* rear dogleg repair
* replacement passenger door as base is rotten
* remanufactured alternator
* replace AC compressor with one of the two that have been sat on my kitchen floor for 2 years (1815mm bypass belt used for the last two years as my AC clutch has gone)
* boost and oil pressure gauge at the bare minimum
* map to 3+ from 3
* check transmission for wear while it sits in my garage
* quieten exhaust

To come at some point in the not too distant future:
* B12 pro kit suspension
* wheel restoration
* separate gearbox cooler potentially
* potentially stubby nose compressor housing for turbo and King Cobra
* potentially a larger diameter charge air pipe
* potentially upgrading the injectors to take the load off the fpr


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 6:35 pm 
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Location: Medway, Kent
Car Models: 2004 9-5 Aero Estate
From https://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=202416&start=20

BigHal wrote:
Jpor thanks for such an informative update.

Guessing you're using the B235 block still then, just crank and pistons from the B234?? It's only hearsay but does this sort any issues with transmission/bell housing to block? I believe it's bolt/set-screw length that's an issue, not mating/alignment. However, I'd think twice about NOT machining pistons if it's just fear of imbalance (never a fan of thicker gaskets). As it'll be stripped anyway I'd be weighing and balancing (or having my local Engineering Workshop do so with their ££££ kit). Chances are you'll find imbalance even pre-machining, if you look but just my opinion from my cosy living room sofa! :-)

At this stage it's probably a PIT for me to ask for pics but I'd love to see anything you're able to share including the car itself.


I'll keep an album of the car as it goes back together here https://photos.app.goo.gl/nTfRKo9wJ1TsSj6P9 I've added a comment to add context to each photo but feel free to engage me on the album itself for any questions. I'll try to take many more pictures of each step as it goes back together. I'll ask Tony if he wouldn't mind documenting his side of the build with some photos too

As far as the machine of pistons goes: I hadn't really considered it. To be entirely honest, b2x4 e/l/r bottom ends are getting harder and harder to come by, I think most of them are in astras by now. The impact of that on the price of them is such that unless you have large stock laying around I think the gap between that and wossner pistons with pec rods is becoming smaller. There's probably not much in it if you were to then get the pistons off to be machined down. The positives in my mind to keeping the b234 bottom end was that I was interested in what it would be like, and I felt it would keep me closer to the "Saab DNA" of the car. The 9000 bottom end will cause it to rev a bit slower, while the Wossners and PEC rods would cause it to rev a bit faster. I've heard most people say that they can definitely feel the difference of wossners but from my research, the limited I found of user accounts of the hybrid builds suggested that they could not feel a difference. I will know in time.

I believe the engine should slot back onto the transmission fine, although I plan on having someone Saab minded with me when I do it to sanity check the process together. I may drive up to Doncaster with the gearbox in the boot and do it with Tony depending on how he feels about that.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 4:29 pm 
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Full Pressure Turbo
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2013 7:20 pm
Posts: 603
Car Models: 2006 9-5 2.3 HOT Aero Estate
Really appreciate your responses and am enjoying the sharing process, THANK YOU.

Off to look at your photos now.....


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 2:12 pm 
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Location: Medway, Kent
Car Models: 2004 9-5 Aero Estate
album has been updated with progress pictures https://photos.app.goo.gl/nTfRKo9wJ1TsSj6P9

I dropped the engine off to Tony Wallis of Doncaster Saab at the backend of January and while that was off there wasn't too much else for me to do except to clear the engine bay a little more and to spend money on new parts

When removing the engine, I opted for a top out removal, this is because my drive is quite steep and I don't like jacking the car up on it as it is. A fair few things got broken in the removal process (I'd missed the ATF and oil cooler lines for example, and so opted to cut through these rather than loosen them when they snagged as I didn't want to spend any more time than I needed to underneath the raised engine. Even with a spreader bar and the crankshaft pulley removed, the wheel arch sustained a good amount of scraping. From this I decided that on reinstallation I would raise the assembled engine on subframe from the bottom.

To do this and to get the clearance I would need, I have jacked up the car even more and removed the front bumper. I now have just over 80cm under the crash bar which gives me enough space to roll the engine on the subframe on some scaffold poles under the crash bar so that I can hoist it up https://photos.app.goo.gl/2oeJzTihEN6Mse5R6

With the subframe removed, I used a combination of lots of jetwashing and brake cleaner to get all the road grime and miscellaneous engine leaks off the surface so that I could paint it. As evenings were still quite short and cold at this point, and much money was being spent on other things, I painted POR15 directly onto the subframe without etching first. This has gone on fine and I think will be good enough for the next few years at least. I can always come back and reapply down the line https://photos.app.goo.gl/yK5daFbWrqeqimwn8

Meanwhile I put in a big order for new parts, from recollection this was

Parts for Saabs:
* DO88 intercooler and hose kit
* DO88 radiator https://photos.app.goo.gl/tATdnYVH3zdEY15z7
* DO88 coolant hoses
* DO88 heater core hoses
* DO88 take off kit (to take a boost gauge reading from the intercooler hose
* rear engine mount and gearbox upper mount
* new track rod ends upper and lower
* power steering lines
* Bilstein B12 pro suspension
* ultra racing rear ARB
* meyle hd arb drop links

Abbott:
* Powerflex polybushes

SAS Auto Customs:
* Equal length tubular manifold

Ebay:
* new silicone vacuum lines
* sandwich plate to take off oil pressure reading from oil filter
* genuine water pump
* Remanufactured alternator

Where red coloured items are not here yet

I had a week off this week where I had hoped to be installing the engine but it wasn't ready until Wednesday evening. I was able to get on with readying the steering on Monday with the new track rod ends and boots. The car will be needing an alignment anyway after it goes back together anyway so I wasn't too concerned about getting the rod ends bang on, but I did use the old rods as a reference for number of threads exposed for my new ones. While it was a very quick job I was still pleased with the result as it was the first time I'd been able to work on the car in a while. Strangely PFS sent one boot with the metal clippy things and another with cable ties. I'll use cable ties on both sides actually as the metal clips are one time use by the time they've snapped with rust taking them apart in future. https://photos.app.goo.gl/VGkVxU9LHqTmty8dA

I also borrowed Dan on Monday evening to push the old powerparts subframe polybushes out and put the new powerflex polybushes in. He has both experience of doing this before and a kit to install the bushes off the car - a similar kit can be found on ebay by searching for "Press and Pull Sleeve Kit Remover Installer Master Seal Bushes Bearings" and costs around ~£100 currently. If doing just a subframe drop and restoration, new ones can be reinstalled by using the car as the press. I felt this was too many variables in my case as there'll be a few things to line up at once when the assembled unit is being reinstalled. In both cases Silicone Spray used instead of the supplied assembly grease to ease the bushes in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4L6hMWBtc71uCdoY8

500 miles in the P38 on Wednesday, https://photos.app.goo.gl/bd9neocLZCNEvE4K8 I like to group things together if I've got semi-far to go for efficiency, so I swung into see a friend in Ipswich on the way up. After picking the engine up from Tony I headed off towards Hinkley to see James and pick up some parts he'd set aside for me. I'd managed to really mess up my driveshafts when removing those from the car, so a new pair of those and a whole new hub on the nearside because I got a socket stuck on my wheel locknut trying to remove that when it got stuck. https://photos.app.goo.gl/BieJ2sEBVWE2QVmn7 it was a pretty final, and futile and fed up attempt to get the nut off after too many hours with a blowtorch and welder. If anyone would like this old, buggered, hub assembly complete with brake disc and calliper and aero wheel and tyre it is free to collect in Chatham, Kent. I've had enough of looking at it laying on my drive!

What I was most excited about receiving from James was the 3.0 V6 snorkel - https://photos.app.goo.gl/GGPUTcK4jJx7KWEh6 - the photo exaggerates the size difference ever so slightly as the upgrade is still attached to the airbox and so is off the ground a bit and nearer the camera. The size difference is still meaningful and I'm looking forward to having it installed. I'll modify the airbox now I have a spare to accept a cone filter

Early the next morning (yesterday) I set about removing the engine from the Range. What I can say is that single handedly removing the engine was so much easier than manipulating it into the Mercedes. With the merc, I had to rest the engine on the bootlid then lift it into the boot and lower it onto its side without the engine crane as it didn't clear the bootlid (the Mercedes has incidentally now gone to a very good home, engine swapped into a 130 Defender camper conversion https://photos.app.goo.gl/6JaTcthh2yhGtcD56 ).

Coming out of the Rangie:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aUGvtKRG3Hd5M6hXA

Rich was very gracious to help me start to reassemble the ancillaries onto the engine last night. Because I've had all the components on and off the engine countless times now, I inexplicably opted not to partition and label all of the bolts as I was stripping the engine bay and preparing the engine for transporting to Doncaster. I knew I should have but my main excuse is it was raining at the time and I just wanted to be done, "I'll do it later I thought"

We broke the back of it, and we made our way through a large number of the bolts on the floor, workbenches, in miscellaneous crates, and under the car. James was also kind enough to label up some of the bolts I knew would be show stoppers on reinstalling the engine.

I did a little more work on assembling the engine today, my final day off work (excluding the weekend). I think I got the torque converter seated right. I heard an audible lock into place sound and I could spin it and hear the internals of the transmission turning. I had to put the trans back on the engine myself and that was interesting. I might need a bath tonight to sooth my back after that! I'm trying not to rush it, so here is where I've got to https://photos.app.goo.gl/wummpLtpoPCHg6LEA and I've to focus on a few other house and life admin items before the day is out but light allowing I may be able to get on a little more this evening. I'll probably just install the turbo assembly to the original exhaust manifold.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 2:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2019 6:16 pm
Posts: 121
Location: Medway, Kent
Car Models: 2004 9-5 Aero Estate
A post on the engine build itself:
We have b234 crankshaft, pistons and rods in the block
the engine is using a T5 head gasket
the reconditioned cylinder head has had b234r camshafts dropped into it

Mark (markc4) asked me why I opted for an engine build in Doncaster when I'm in Kent. Of course based on proximity, there is Motorvation Saab near me in Tonbridge. I was also recommended one or two other places such as Jamsaab. I had previously dealt with Tony when I bought the cylinder head off of him on Ebay. I was happy with his Saab knowledge, and this hybrid build was something he specifically offered as off the shelf. I think that last point was probably why I didn't even get a quote off the other specialists. In trawling this forum for as much info as I could find on the hybrid build, there was only a limited amount of info on it compared with the wealth of threads on many other subjects, so to go to someone who had the process nailed down was key.

The b234r cams have been used because it was what was available, my understanding is though that the naturally aspirated cams have the most aggressive profile and so if found are preferable, these would come from a b324i. Please correct this info as necessary for the benefit of anyone researching this in the future.

The flexplate was on the engine when I collected it, so my side there are no differences between the crankshafts as they line up to the gearbox. What the engine builder has to do to get the flexplate on the crankshaft I don't know, again my understanding was that this was a direct fit.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 8:17 pm 
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Location: Maidstone
Car Models: 9-5 Aero
The b234 and b235 cranks are identical....... they have the same Saab part number :wink:

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Prefers driving over polishing or reading.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2021 8:51 am 
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Location: Medway, Kent
Car Models: 2004 9-5 Aero Estate
I think that may answer this question then:

BigHal wrote:
Jpor thanks for such an informative update.

Guessing you're using the B235 block still then, just crank and pistons from the B234?? It's only hearsay but does this sort any issues with transmission/bell housing to block? I believe it's bolt/set-screw length that's an issue, not mating/alignment.


I think I'd seen a similar reservation on an old thread discussing the hybrid builds - if the cranks are identical then this shouldn't have been a problem.

Rich you'll have to do a more detailed write up of the block build itself when you come to do yours, I'll be there to take pictures and pass the spanners


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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 7:56 pm 
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Location: Medway, Kent
Car Models: 2004 9-5 Aero Estate
Progress of sorts has been made since my last post

Some more parts received
First some exciting stuff my intercooler hose kit arrived
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uqQDR489Xr1GFLYWA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4vrd6jc3DT6WcVi46
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zmUcMAHiXaRh42U99
I did spend a while admiring it I have to be honest. When this is all over I will be dedicating some time to learning how to weld reasonably

I also received my refurbished alternator. I'll be honest I have mixed views on this so far. My previous alternator, while grubby looking functioned fine. The casting was undamaged too. So when my reconditioned one arrived, I was obviously annoyed that I managed to get one with two broken ribs
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yRWRLGz5Mz2EWAcn8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/F1FS2gkXx62rAn9d8
And the casting was in other places (not pictured) a little scuffed. Now, I'm not sure what the coils are bonded with, but from inspection the wires in the new one do appear "grubbier"
https://photos.app.goo.gl/M9iKrUpmkexKneSJ6
I will do some more research into this, I am hoping that shiny copper is not what we want to see as it would mean degraded resin, and the dirty look is what we are after because side by side that is exactly what can be seen with the "new" alternator looking darker internally. To the uninitiated in alternator design (me) is does appear like the casting has been stripped and cleaned and I've been charged £120 for an alternator from a breaker. Not sure. A) I will do some research B) I will contact the company to get their take on what this is meant to really be and C) I will keep my old, known working one, just in case (from what it's worth it has been bought from a recognised and well reviewed ebay seller of remanufactured alternators).

Trial Fitting the Engine
On Thursday night, Rich came over and we set about getting the engine back in the car. My plan had been to mount the engine on the subframe and roll under the car on scaffold poles. It soon became apparent that it was not possible to both lift the engine on the subframe and to roll it under the car. The subframe being wider than the track of the legs of the hoist meant that once there, the system could not be lowered to ground level.
Subframe can be seen here sitting on the legs of the hoist https://photos.app.goo.gl/oX5pKQMmdbPyUcMV7
I did have a prepared plan B which was a little less thought out and went along the lines of "something involving sleepers". This was not pretty, not pretty at all. The sump is scratched but from what I can see I don't think anything got damaged. It would have been better to have a small pallet to hand and strap the engine to this and drag that under the crash bar. Not having one of these, this is what we went for. If doing it again though, I would find one in advance
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rXGN3GyVAhX3jfiY9

The car, being jacked up as high as it is, made some pretty scary creaking sounds whenever the engine bumped anything on its way up, but the top mount and the anti-vibration mount are both installed, only the rear mount and gearbox torque arm mount remaining. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3Py4mq8uPt4W5Qt3A

And this is where things did start to go a little wrong.

Bottlenecks
The first, well the first was a problem I didn't know I had. Having been very excited by my rebuilt steering rack ends, I was a little surprised when doomscrolling instagram on Friday I noticed that Sreten from m539_restorations (if you don't follow him on youtube you should) posted a picture of his goosed steering rack. That's funny I thought, that doesn't look any different to mine. Here is the post https://photos.app.goo.gl/VyNHKWBTnRUC5p6r6. As everyone except me is presumably aware, the boots in a power steering rack should be dry. They are there to prevent dust ingress from the end of the steering rack. Unlike a CV boot they should not contain slimy grease (i.e. a concoction power steering fluid and dirt). So a lucky break in the end that this post just happened to fall on the same day that I was reinstalling my rack. In the grand scheme I don't know if it would have been an immediate disaster, as this boot must have been full of slime for a while without me noticing it. Now I knew, I wasn't going to put it back in the car. I found on ebay someone selling reconditioned (seals, boots, track rod ends, ball joints, rechromed) power steering racks for £110 with old unit in exchange. Unfortunately for me the seller is away at the moment so this will take a fortnight or so to arrive apparently. I will also send my old track rod ends etc with my steering rock and keep the new ones back for whenever they are needed so hopefully not a complete waste of money.

While it is true that the power steering rack needs to go on before the subframe, I thought I would get on with installing the subframe now to take it out again when the new steering rack arrives. I have identified my next priority as hooking up the atf cooler lines to the radiator to ensure that the transmission is not leaking ATF where the torque converter mates. This was going to be in the form of a subframe mounted radiator but now it might just be putting a clamp on the end of the old cut hoses and filling up the transmission temporarily. I don't want to connect everything up to realise I've got this mating wrong. That. Would. Suck.

Why can't the subframe go on? This is perhaps a very big problem, maybe a minor annoyance. The rearmost subframe mounting point on the passenger side is poorly. https://photos.app.goo.gl/DSGuTprLR5ywujFE8. It would appear that when removing the subframe, this may have been the last bolt to have been removed and the weight pulling down on it has caused the last few threads to strip. I minor annoyance would be that I can clean this up with a tap. I got my thread pitch gauge on the bolts and they are 1.5 pitch, which for a M12 bolt is "fine" I think, because my tap set only contains the most common sizes, which is a 1.75 pitch thread for M12. I found this out yesterday morning and the most reasonably priced solution seemed to be Amazon, and that did not come today as it was meant to. I'll feed back with whether I am successful in rescuing this. If not I haven't researched what is involved, as at this point I don't really want to know, it wouldn't be helpful. My guess is that interior carpet and dashboard must come out maybe and then it looks to be some kind of floating nut situation.

So not the progress we'd have liked from a bank holiday weekend, I was really hopeful that there would be some big breaks these last few days but we are slowly but surely meandering towards the end goal.

Scope changes
Because I live alone and have been working from home during the pandemic, I spend a large chunk of my workday daydreaming about cars. I loosely argued to myself that it would be more cost effective to get a new exhaust system made the way I would like it than to modify my existing one (don't try to talk me down, it's happening). To get a quiet exhaust with good airflow, I thought a twin tailpipe setup would be cool. What is cooler than the Hirsch 305hp edition exhaust? https://photos.app.goo.gl/6T8RtNmB278akHzp7

As a result, I have contacted Albert666 whose downpipes I have regularly seen and heard described as "works of art" to see if he'd be willing to make me a 3" system which splits into 2.5" twin exit. This will have two sufficiently sized silencers by the tailpipes to bring the noise right down to the OEM+ levels I am after. My loud exhaust was funny while I was running it but I'd like to slip under the radar for the most part and speaking with colleagues in my team who are into cars (Swiss based company) I'd really be doing myself a lot of favours when in Europe if my exhaust weren't so loud. I think my neighbours will be pleased on 4am airport runs too.

While the thread is indeed titled stage 3+, I will be going for a td04-19t to get a conservative stage 5 build. This will have a stubby compressor housing for a king cobra intake, as well as a 7cm turbine housing and ported wastegate -- this is because without this a) turbine blades need clipping and b) many complaints of surging without these. The 7cm turbine housing should also work to push the power up the rev range and impact low down torque less. Another pro for the transmission. (This reason was lifted from a post by Eucalyptus9000 on a similar topic, who is/was running 320hp td04-19t on a DE auto with stock internals). I will also probably go for the Arashi billet turbo for this. The housings for this are already set up as I want them, I would just need to port the waste gate and possibly the manifold entry port too. The branded Chinese turbos seem to be fairing okay in terms of reliability as far as I can tell, so I don't see a reason to have it rebuilt straight away with a genuine mitsibushi or mellet core but this has not been completely ruled out. I would have actually gone for the Abbott one, even though it is really quite pricey in comparison with the ebay ones, because they are more local. I discounted these as only 5 or 6 cm turbine housings are offered


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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2021 9:05 am 
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Location: Royal Tunbridge Wells
Car Models: '03 9-5 2.3 Vector Auto Estate Noob Stg 1, Suzuki S Cross, '81 TR7 DHC
Impressive amount of work going into that Jacob. Thought you said it was just an old car you picked up to have a bit of fun with at the meet last year. Not sure you will be ready for the next one though!

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'03 9-5 2.3t Vector Estate Auto Noob Stg 1
'01 9-3 2.0t SE Vert Auto
'81 Triumph TR7 DHC


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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2021 9:57 am 
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Car Models: 9-5 aero HOT
When I did my engine swap recently I went through the top.
When I removed the donor engine we did it from under including removal of the subframe and it was easier, but we had a forklift to lift the car up and down with and it was going for scrap afterward.
I dont think it's doable to lift the car over the engine and subframe easily without a lift.
Also I had the crane tied much closer to the engine than you've done, rigged with chain and a threaded hook which give the ability to "load level"
https://i.ibb.co/8N6WKsw/angle.jpg

For fitting the engine and box I found you've got to duck it under the pass side box mount and then prop it on the subframe- mine still attached.
If you've got the subframe off and drop the engine in through the top it will go in like a hot knife in butter. The subframe is the only thing really in the way.
Again at an angle and remove the crank pulley will give more room.
Then you can bolt the engine in on the two side mounts and re-attach the subframe.

Probably how I might try it next time. But loosened not full subframe removal because PAS rack as you've found out.


Potentially interested in your old 3" system. :)


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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2021 3:04 pm 
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Location: Medway, Kent
Car Models: 2004 9-5 Aero Estate
TWSaab wrote:
Impressive amount of work going into that Jacob. Thought you said it was just an old car you picked up to have a bit of fun with at the meet last year. Not sure you will be ready for the next one though!


Hi Alan, yes I think May 21st could be a bit of a squeeze. I do however have lots of Saab friends now that I can go with. And a bit of fun I have had. I did weigh up the pros and cons of sending the car to a scrapper and buying another. Used car prices have been quite high through the pandemic, so finding a replacement wasn't as easy as when I bought this car in the first place. Lots of things I'm doing to the car now are things I'd have probably done in the end anyway, I've just accelerated it. Now seemed like as good a time as any, since I tend to work quite long hours and when back in the office there would have only been the weekends to sort the car. With working from home I can sneak an hour here and there. Most of all, I bought the car for £900 back when that was way more than I could afford to spend on a car, and it's seen me through renovating my house, moonlighting as a carpenter working on other people's houses, as well as a fair few of life's little adventures - there was a sentimental reason to keep this one going for as long as it seemed reasonable.

95dave wrote:
When I did my engine swap recently I went through the top.
When I removed the donor engine we did it from under including removal of the subframe and it was easier, but we had a forklift to lift the car up and down with and it was going for scrap afterward.
I dont think it's doable to lift the car over the engine and subframe easily without a lift.
Also I had the crane tied much closer to the engine than you've done, rigged with chain and a threaded hook which give the ability to "load level"
https://i.ibb.co/8N6WKsw/angle.jpg

For fitting the engine and box I found you've got to duck it under the pass side box mount and then prop it on the subframe- mine still attached.
If you've got the subframe off and drop the engine in through the top it will go in like a hot knife in butter. The subframe is the only thing really in the way.
Again at an angle and remove the crank pulley will give more room.
Then you can bolt the engine in on the two side mounts and re-attach the subframe.

Probably how I might try it next time. But loosened not full subframe removal because PAS rack as you've found out.


Potentially interested in your old 3" system. :)


Was this up in Scotland? I recall Rich recounting a similar story with a forklift. I hadn't thought about reinstalling through the top with the subframe out. Next time maybe I'll give that a go. With the crank pulley off, removal from the top was a nightmare but admittedly the subframe was still attached

With all but one subframe bolt loosely positioned, I did try encouraging the engine back onto the subframe but it just didn't want to know. I will for sure have to get the hoist back on the engine to take the weight when doing this, and loosen the two side mountings to get a bit more movement on the engine

I've got some bad news to break you on the 3" system front. I basically assumed it was 3" but I never measured it, I just never saw a step down from the downpipe - I only bought it for the downpipe really and the stainless. Rich measured it last week and I think it's probably more like standard diameter 'cat' back. I'll look to sell it when my new exhaust and turbo is in - for a 3" system there is/was an Abbott 3" cat back for sale on the facebook group in Wiltshire for £275 a few days ago which was good value. But if you're doing stage 3+ mine would still be plenty.


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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2021 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2019 6:16 pm
Posts: 121
Location: Medway, Kent
Car Models: 2004 9-5 Aero Estate
some questions now if you don't mind
I can't show it so well in the photo, but the flywheel appears visually to not be parallel with the end plate on the engine or the gearbox - it appears to kick out at the bottom (as if the top is leaning towards the nearside and the bottom is leaning towards the offside). Not sure if this is normal or an optical illusion https://photos.app.goo.gl/ar5wQH7DLGTroG6Q7 what do y'all think?
I think a good test for it will be to turn the engine over and to see if the flywheel "wobbles" as it rotates. If it stays in the same plane then I think it's fine? I will wait till I have a dry evening and a second pair of hands (thanks Rich) to test this (REMIND ME TO TAKE THE SPARK PLUGS OUT FIRST - for compression of the oil sitting in the cylinder to stop oxidation rather than sparky reasons)

The second question pertains to the throttle body. The exposed brass outlet bottom left, where does it go? I'm not sure where this hose is, I think it must still be connected up in the engine bay, depending on where it goes https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGmswn2xPHjctcsm6


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