UKSaabs

I have an arch repair panel to weld on to my 99 2 door body and in preparation for that i got the sander out to get some bare metal.

Unfortunately I didn't hit bare metal for quite some time as completely unknown to me, the entire panel behind the drivers door was covered in filler averaging 5mm in depth.

To be fair, it was a very very good job as it looked flat and smooth with paint on and in hindsight, the only giveaway was that the door shut never quite lined up properly due to the thickness of the filler.

Anyone, it needs fixing before i weld the repair panel in as it currently has ripples and undulations and isn't really a reliable datum for fixing new metal to.

I'd thought that mobile dent repair businesses would be able to deal with or at least improve the panel but having tried a number now, none of them seem interested. They either don't bother replying, do reply but say 'not our sort of work' and I've yet to get anyone to show any interest.

What do you think my options are?

I can't tell whether a piece of flat sheet could be let in effectively or not, the panel on the other side looks like it doesn't have any shape to it until it meets the arch or door shut going front and back or, the swage line going upwards. That swage line would be a decent point to make a join...

If anyone has a spare scrap shell they are currently cutting up, i would be interested in seeing photos of that area - if good, maybe it would be best to weld in as much factory steel as possible.

With the other repairs i'm doing at the moment; I'm learning fast welding the thin stuff and I can imagine that area would need to be welded up nice and slowly to minimise any heat distortion. The thought of that puts me off but not as much as unpicking spot welds and putting a whole panel in!

I would be loathe to cut and weld unnecessarily on that panel. The risk of distortion etc to get you to not a great deal better position (and maybe worse) is not worth it IMO.

A little filler is fine and any repair will need some unless you have some seriously good panel beating skills

Do your best to get to the right shape by using suction cups or nails welded on and a slide hammer. I improvised something like this on my white c900.

https://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic ... 35&t=50677

I'm not sure how well you can access the panel from behind and use the dent panel tools (no experience with these) or there are some proper pins you can buy something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/86pcs-Dent-P ... SwzYJfBEgj
Not sure how the "welder" works

Roughen the surface when you have got it almost right and epoxy primer (I lead tinned my Saab but probably wouldn't bother now) then filler. Use a template cut to match the other side for guidance and a long sanding block to shape. Where you go through the filler to the metal then epoxy prime again. Lechler 29107 (and associated hardener) is available from various places e.g. Express Paints but get it tinted as the natural colour is a sort of translucent grey.

_________________
Tarquin Fin-tim-lin-bin-whin-bim-lim-bus-stop-F'tang-F'tang-Olé-Biscuitbarrel. Silly party.

Hi Anjum, thanks for the reply and links. I'm kind of with you on not wanting to weld a patch in. I'm not looking forward to doing the arch repair panel for reasons of distortion so maybe I should know my limits and play safe!

The dent removal people all talk about the metal being stretched and that's a problem for them, that sounds like shrinking it would help so found such a thing as a 'shrinking hammer' exists. May give this a go...

Like you suggestion of templates off the other side. I've seen edge finders in the carpentry world, the longest one of these I can find will help check progress.

This sort of thing:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-10-Shape-C ... 890.l49292

I've got epoxy primer already in for the underside so ready to go when I get to that bit.

Don't need any fingers etc just cut some cardboard/ plywood etc templates maybe at different lines and use those.

The long sanding board is more important I've got one of these adapted with a bit of plywood and velcro to fit standard sanding pads.

Heat and cold might be a better way of shrinking the metal but make sure there is nothing behind the sheet metal.
The crease is going to be difficult to remove without wrecking the panel.

I think you may be in danger of over thinking this (don't ask me how I know ) if you accept that there will be a little filler then that's a relatively easy repair. The problem comes when you want to make it metal millimetre perfect like a delorean.

_________________
Tarquin Fin-tim-lin-bin-whin-bim-lim-bus-stop-F'tang-F'tang-Olé-Biscuitbarrel. Silly party.

Hah, I've got no problem with filler! It was a perfectly decent job before I sanded it off. I just want to be able to put less back.

Don't waste your money on a "shrinking hammer". They are totally useles.
As the PDR guys said, that area is pretty well stretched, and you run the risk of making it worse if you attempt to beat it out. If it's not "oil canning" then re fill as before. If it is "oil canning" after welding in your arch repair panel, planish what you can, then heat & quench to tighten the metal, then fill & paint.

OK, shrinking hammer is a no then, I'm alright with that as well as they seem to cost a fair bit and don't come with inbuilt skill.

I have now found a dent guy who at least wants to come and look at the car so, what is saved on tools for me can be given to dent man who does come with inbuilt skill.

Hopefully all will be good...

Watch this space, cheers!

_________________
Tarquin Fin-tim-lin-bin-whin-bim-lim-bus-stop-F'tang-F'tang-Olé-Biscuitbarrel. Silly party.