UKSaabs

Indicator bulb finally failed after a few weeks of random sud messages.
Also water pump has also failed and waiting for replacement to arrive. Bumper off again.

Heavy, front engined, front wheel drive car will be a bit hard on suspension items....... especially on UK roads.
How long since they were last done?


The oil weep is not uncommon, all my 9-5's have leaked, some a bit, but mostly like a sieve.
A head bolt re-torque may help, but most likely not a lot......
this does not mean that the headgasket needs replacing though.
You may just need to put up with the weep, as long as it doesn't resemble the Exxon Valdeez!

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Rich
Prefers driving over polishing or reading.

Probably the first time the control arm bushes have been done, and the end pieces, I suspect? No idea on the Track Rod Ends? I replaced the Drop Links around 5yrs ago. I had it up a few weeks ago and noticed the rubbers were split. So given the control arm bushes were also in a terrible state, just decided on going the whole hog.




It's a bit more than a weep I think? At least, my boss thinks so, given the territory marking she's been doing

Head retorque will be carried out tomorrow, and we'll see how it goes? I meant to do it when I bought it with 120k on the clock. It's now on 169k, so probably well overdue

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Min bil läcker inte,

den bara markerar sitt territorium

Did the J16 crimp re-work to hopefully address the P0134 Fcod 307.

Friday - CEL, nErr 1, Fcod 307. Generic code reader showed P0133. I've seen this a couple of years ago and it just went away after a couple of resets.
Sunday - same as above. Cleared it again.
Monday - no CEL, nErr2, Fcod P0134. Both these show as oxygen sensor signal problems.
Did some research. WIS wasn't much help (to me anyway). Several stories of the crimp solving the problem.

So now we wait.......

We are aware that on 9000s the drains from the air outlets can come loose and drain into the difficult area between the inner and outer rear wing skins behind the wheel arches. At Saabfest a splendid chap shared his knowledge and expanded my understanding of the issue, showing me behind the carpets in his car. More wisdom came from Mr Bayfield.

Not expecting a problem I whipped my carpets aside anyway, mainly to check the gulleys at the bottom of the wing skins and the strut top mounts. The strut areas are spotless, I found a couple of small areas of rust from carpet chafing, where the single (??) screw for the CD changer was once fastened to the floor (at the foot of that angled flange, not the dirty spot outboard of there) and at the drain hole below the left bumper mounting bolts.



Its all foreign matter apart from the bits near the lashing ring.

Irritatingly, three of the four mudflap screws have caused 3 cm diameter circles of rust. The fourth has a plastic plug with the screw driven into it. Why not the other three?? I wince each time I see a screw driven into metal on Wheeler Dealers with no precautions. Its unforgivable.



No rust in the gulleys, drains clear, although there was a lot of leaves/twigs/two snail shells down there and generally behind the carpets as if it was left outside in high winds in autumn with the tailgate open and carpets pulled aside.

Ground down the rust spots, used Hydrate 80, primer, paint, lacquer. The wheel arch screw damage is best left for someone who knows what they're doing and in any case, access is impractical from inside.

The antenna drain was just hanging in the void. There is a hole with a bung in it at the appropriate position and interestingly the equivalent hole on the right side was bungless so I transposed it. There's no evidence of the unbunged hole letting debris/water in.

I've dribbled Hydrate 80 into the gulleys in case there was any rust I couldn't see. Nothing's gone black.

What should I follow up with? Traditional Waxoyl?

Have you considered Lanoguard? It seems to get good reviews and appears less messy and smelly than Waxoyl. I am considering it for the underside of Mrs TW's new car to try and keep the inevitable at bay.

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Alan

'03 9-5 2.3t Vector Estate Noob Stg 1
'01 9-3 2.0t SE Vert
'81 Triumph TR7
Suzuki SX4 S Cross

Thanks. The reviews look interesting and I'll give it some thought.

Another day, another fix.
The excruciatingly feeble bracket moulded on to the back of the doorcard in the 'vert, "designed" to hold the end of the door-release cable sleeve, snapped off, making it impossible to get out of the car. Luckily it was the passenger side.
Today's job was to remove the doorcard, retrieve the snapped-off section still attached to the cable, and reattach it.
I am hopeful, after a bit of materials testing, that Polypipe guttering cement will do the job. Used a dob of it on the back of the doorcard moulding to mix a bit of "filler" to reinforce the pathetically-thin web of plastic.
I used it previously to repair snapped-off retainers of door-mirror trims, so fingers crossed.

[Edit]
Left it overnight to "set" - felt really quite sturdy by lunchtime so reassembled it and will, as they say, "keep the matter under review".

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Why do I have to fix the tools before I can do the jobs?

Took it for a drive over country roads.

Specifically, the Yorkshire Wolds up to Pickering for a small gathering for a future Bangers & Cash Feature on SAAB (Organised by Fliptop).

Having the recent works done on the front end has certainly made a good deal of improvement on the handling when pushing on. The jury is still out on the oil leak though, but recent evidence seems to show the Head Retorque (seems to ) has made a difference? There's still a weep somewhere (oil pressure switch, or remaining residue ) from evidence at work, but much less than recently.

Next job, rear ARB Bushes and Links I think?

_________________
Min bil läcker inte,

den bara markerar sitt territorium

I had another recce in the 9000's aquarium with a view to replacing the dead recirc motor. I energised the replacement (origin - munchcorp - thanks) which of course works fine. I have read about needing to release some fasteners so as to move the evaporator box or maybe the whole HVAC unit a few cm, as one of the motor bracket's two bolts is blocked by some steel structure which the evaporator housing sits on. The motor attaches to it's bracket by three small slot head screws, only one of which is accessible, so that option is impractical.

I'll do the research again. Good thing it's failed in fresh air mode.

Getting at the recirc damper motor is a pain, good luck!

Re-fitted the reverse sensor on the 9-5 - all good now.
Trying to trace air con leak on the 9-5 after fitting new condenser - have ordered a UV torch from Amazon. I can hear a slow hiss but not sure if a joint or the pipe leaking across the front of the car.

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9-5 Aero Estate 2005 in grey
9000 Aero 1995 in black
1994 GM 900
1987 9000 16V S Turbo

Got the front bumper off the 'vert in order to paint the scuffed corners of the skirt caused by years of diving into the verges down our local lanes to avoid eejits who don't know the width of their cars.

Rubbed down and primered. Pretty impressed so far with the quality of the primer from Paints4u.com. Hope the topcoat and lacquer do as good a job...tomorrow...

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Why do I have to fix the tools before I can do the jobs?

Replaced 'vert's bumper. Wish I'd painted the entire lower skirt now because it's made such a difference to the corners! Hindsight...

Colour match is not 100% due to 17 years of fading, but you have to strain to see the join.

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Why do I have to fix the tools before I can do the jobs?

Replaced my windscreen washer pump for the second time this week. First eBay offering was pants as the pipe adaptor didn't fit and water dripped out. 2nd one was a neo brothers TVT copy that's fits perfectly. Our local Saab dealer gulped with the cost of a "genuine" one, hence neo for a lot less.
Just washed it, I hate the rear wheels, I should really do something about them.

Popped the bonnet on the 9-5 aero to see where the 'tappetty' noise was coming from. Strangely its intermittent, but, this morning, seemed worse than ever before. No idea whats causing it, might be a trip to davesaab

Started both of the SAABs and took them both for a 10 minute run to blow away the cobwebs, as they have not been used for a while.

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When you think you know it all, it's a sure sign you don't.

Nearly three weeks and about 600 miles later and no recurrence. I therefore offer for your consideration the J16 crimp solution for oxygen sensor Fcod 307 and/or 308 (P0133/4 respectively).

Washed the 9000 y'day and found the usual (I've seen a few others similar) crack in the forward face of the rectangular plastic base thing through which the aerial emerges. The o-ring under the nut was broken too. Replaced both then noticed the nearside bonnet latch wasn't latching. Adjusted it.

Finally found a bit of enthusiasm to continue my 99 turbo rebuild.

Thought I'd re-commence with one of the better areas to help encourage myself - bare metalling the driver's side tunnels, thank heavens for major oil leaks...



Plenty of clean up needed, but it looks like one area of the car than won't need the attention of the sparkle-spanner...

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66 El Camino
67 Camaro RS/SS
77 Chev C10
78 99 TURBO
02 9-3 Aero 'vert
04 Monaro CV8
15 Focus ST250