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The place for you to start a thread about and show us your car.

(Please stick to one thread, rather than starting several threads for the same vehicle).

Your Cars is the place for telling us about your new cars, minor upgrades and mini projects.
Full on restorations & major rebuilds should be posted in Restorations & Major Projects.



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:32 pm
Posts: 5827
Location: Glenrothes, Fife
Car Model: 95, 99, 900, 9000, 93, Sonett
Great to see an OG93 getting some love and attention, superb work, but also shows how well these cars can hide rust...! I'm slightly nervous about looking too closely at mine now, it's had the bulkhead welding done prior to my owning it, but the area is looking slightly brown now. The back arches are starting to look scabby, but it's had the spare wheel well & floorpans attended to in the last couple of years. It's a high mileage workhorse, but when her working days are done I'm hoping to give her a sympathetic cosmetic overhaul. Superb work on yours, look forward to seeing further updates.

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MY73 95 V4
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:54 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 22, 2019 1:46 pm
Posts: 44
Car Model: Volvo 240 B200F
Wow!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:25 pm
Posts: 4994
Location: Ingleby barwick, cleveland
Car Model: 2000 9-3 viggen convertible.
Your doing a good job. Has that car lived on a seafront?

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2000 9-3 2.3 viggen convertible.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 11:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2018 1:02 pm
Posts: 21
Car Model: 9-3 OG
7aero, Bricktop, Doive, mentepazza, Geoff 9-3 thanks for the comments, good to see some love for the OG's out there.

Quote:
You’re doing a good job. Has that car lived on a seafront?


It's spent most of its life in Southampton but I think the OG's are starting to show their age a bit now. Looking at Rot others have found I think I've got off lightly with the exception of the Bulkhead. I was genuinely gutted when I was going to scrap it and in the end just couldn't do it and had to continue.

Time for a long overdue update on project silver. Bring on more pictures...

Stripped the engine bay out fully to access all the minor surface rust areas prior to painting.
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Cleaned up areas like the passenger chassis leg that had minor surface rust. It had an unused thread that was removed along with the old bulkhead insulation retaining points on the firewall.
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Did my usual sanding back then treating with Deox gel. Would've loved to get this front end blasted and painted professionally but logistically and financially I couldn't make that work. Instead I've used a mixture of primers like epoxy or rust encapsulator that were brush painted then flatted back for rust areas.
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Next job was to seam seal the repair areas in the engine bay. I decided to buy some proper 3M brush able seam sealant thinking this would be better than using tiger seal. I will let the picture do the talking on this one, I even used the proper brush!

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Yep what a mess and after a week or so only the 1 or 2mm thickness areas had cured. I had to bite the bullet on this and accept that it's not really suitable for the deeper coverage I needed and rake it all out again. Attempt two with the trusty Tigerseal looked much better in all areas.
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This was the plate that was removed for rust repair at the top of the arch with some nice new seam sealer. Few other areas got some new seam sealer where required.
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I was excited to reach the paint stage and much prep work later it was finally ready. The epoxy primer while brilliant was a real nightmare to feather the edges and clearly more suited to a complete covering application. I ended up flatting a lot back and requiring some standard etch where I rubbed though the e-coat. As I was painting the day after prep though this worked out okay moisture wise. Didn't want surrounding cars getting covered in overspray so went crazy with the plastic. This worked a treat and acted as a wind break for any light breeze.
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Armed and dangerous I decided to use the adhesion promotor on everything. Had intended to use it on areas like under brackets but did everything for a belt a braces approach especially on areas with seam sealer.

Engine bay in primer
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Colour and lacquer applied
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Pleased with this for a 1k aerosol job it's tidied up the engine bay nicely.

Scuttle panel area was next on the list. I'd previously re-done the seam sealer on the drivers side as my initial attempt was too high allowing water to spill out the brake servo access bungs. I dealt with any surface rust and then brush epoxy primed the entire scuttle to give it some protection from all the moisture it's subjected to. It won't be seen so I didn't go mad flatting it back to make sure it had full coverage.

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With the bay and scuttle painted it no longer looked like a scrap car.
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The seam sealer in the windscreen corners had cracked so sections were re-done and painted.
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Even though the internal bulkhead repair won't be seen I couldn't resist giving it the full rust encapsulator primer, seam sealer and paint process.
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Next job was the crossmember and more exposed chassis areas. Took care of any surface rust and went with 2 coats of Buzzweld rust encapsulator on those areas.
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Added some seam sealer to that vulnerable seam then two coats of Buzzweld chassis in one. These front end areas are hidden but subject to a fair bit of wet weather so wanted some good paint coverage.
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I've continued this on the underside of the chassis legs to give a bit more protection. These areas are normally just e-coat, they didn't even get top coat from factory and shows that e-coat is hard wearing. Asking a lot of it after 20 years though so belt and braces approach here.
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Wheel arches were next. I was debating whether or not to remove the small amount of seam sealer that remained and glad I did.
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All surface rust but the inner arches were taken back to clean metal and got various treatments. One arch got a really tough Buzzweld 2k epoxy armour as an experiment with the other getting the tried and tested Rust encapuslator followed by Chassis in one. The 2k armour was impressive for hidden areas like this but requires a rougher surface and direct to metal. The brush also starts to clog up with the limited pot life and the temperature outside had started to get right on the limit for epoxy. That was followed by some tiger seal for seam sealer.
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Scotched and light sanded depending on coating then the upol gravi gaurd went on.
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Finally another two coats of Chassis in One.
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The font end was now painted and time for some long awaited re-assembly. That re-assembly lasted about 10mins with the bonnet release cable then realised I needed a part from the donor black saab. The bulkhead plate from project silver was looking worse for wear, especially the seal with all that water leaking though it.
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The bulkhead plate in the black donor saab looked great but this presented a challenge. I wanted the black saab to act as a reference for re-assembly and where all the wires are routed and clipped. Removing the bulkhead plate would need some major disassembly but as I didn't need the looms I could cut them and leave them attached.
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Made a right school boy error with the labels on the silver saab which faded. This time I used marker on the masking tape and took plenty of photos along the way. Interior support that would be used as a reference later.
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Mission complete, the bulkhead plate on this 70K donor is in much better shape. The foam seal is 20 years old so it will get a small bead of black tigerseal just to make sure it's watertight. Shouldn't see any water really now the scuttle joint is fixed but better safe than sorry.
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I then went off on a bit of a tangent and wanted to prepare the heater box for re-assembly. The one in the silver saab was tried and tested but I wanted to make sure it was clean internally especially the evaporator and condensation hole. Would be gutting to reassemble the car and find the air con stinks, that's my excuse anyway.

Before
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During
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This was the you've gone to far regret moment. Can't remember why I took this bit apart think a bit accidently fell out but worked it all out eventually.
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Cleaned, greased and robbed the heater resistor and seal from the black saab. I still need to order and change the seals on the heater matrix but this can be done in the car.
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Only bit left was the top seals that mate with the dashboard top vents. On both cars the part looked in a similar state.
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Used some suitably sized draught excluder that will compress and seal once the dashboard and vent ducts are resting on it.
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With that mini project out of the way it was time to face the music and the sad looking inside of the silver saab. When I thought I was scrapping the car I removed the looms with little regard for all the plastics or position. Thankfully I didn't cut any wires but it was going to require a boat load of patience and bits from the donor to get things back to factory wiring routing.
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I had a tidy up and retrieved this grubby engine bay loom that feeds into the passenger side grommet hole.
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Cleaned it up, checking it over as I went. This connection was taped up but I had a look and removed that old wire taping it up again.
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The insulation tape in sections was looking a bit tatty and had rubbed in this location. The wire had corroded so I ended up putting it quite a long repair section to remove the green you see here.
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Used Tesa 51026 tape to smarten it up and offer a bit more protection in certain areas.
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Loom fitted using black saab as a reference and adding things like abs sensors and parts like washer bottle back in.
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Some serious hours went into getting the inside ready for the dashboard again. The footwell insulation helps support the heater box so I sectioned it into three pieces. That will allow me access to all the wiring for future work and this re-assembly. Used a small bead of tigerseal on the bulkhead plate seal and where the dashboard support structure bolts into the scuttle panel. You would have to be parked on a hill for those bolts to see any water but you never know so they are now water tight. Used Tesa 51618 tape putting all the loom back into the plastic channels on the drivers side. The donor car really paid for itself for the bits an pieces of plastic that were required for the wiring and to act as a reference.

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The clutch pedal assembly is a bit tricky to remove so while the dashboard was out I replaced the master cylinder for peace of mind.
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Dashboard back in place and looking so much better with a carbon effect dash surround. I have some small areas of floor to fix but needed all this back in. I had parts everywhere and this frees up some room for the future engine build. That rust on the passenger floor is all the grinding dust bedded in. I've cleaned the drivers side but ran out of Autogylm Magma.
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Moved back onto the engine bay but little jobs seemed to take ages. This was a great example cleaning up the fuel and evap connections which had picked up mine and a previous owners overspray (cleaned line on right). I mean nobody will see this really but I knew it was there and couldn't help myself.
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Evap connection joints had perished so I used some high grade fuel hose.
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Engine bay now coming together and looks like this.
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Next on the list is a bit of parts shopping and tackle the brake lines and steering rack. The goal is to get the front end something like then either do the rest of the car or the engine build. Still deciding on the order, pros and cons to mull over :-)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 10:28 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:28 am
Posts: 4628
Location: South Wales
Car Model: 900 SE Stage 3
That is an impressive amount of work gone in. That's given me a few ideas for my 900. For one thing, I reckon my phantom leak that I've struggled to find may well be from the bulkhead plate. I also reckon my charcoal canister pipes must be shot as the wings have never been removed in 25 years.

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