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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 3:17 pm 
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Location: Newtown, Mid Wales
Car Model: 9-5 Aero Estate
Just doing the last few parts on my rebuilt 9-5 engine before it goes back in the car; I'm probably going to replace the rotten oil cooler for a new universal one which hopefully is just a matter of modifying the hose mount of the oil cooler housing.

But wondering about adding sensors while there, I did buy a cheap oil pressure gauge, no idea what the thread on it is.
Would it be sensible to fit a gauge sender where the standard low pressure sender is on the block?
Or just fit it to the oil filter housing on the gearbox-side where it appears to have a suitable port.
The local(ish) mechanic had his fitted there on his Viggen, but then he's also spun a bearing too :cry:

Am considering oil temp too, but previously I just used the coolant temp for "ready to boost" display.
Any opinions either way on that?

As for routing the wires and such, I guess the only way into the passenger area is through the big rubber gland that carries all the other cables?
Even with the engine out I'm seeing no other alternatives.
Except for maybe where the bonnet release goes perhaps... as i may go to aerocatches


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 3:45 pm 
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Location: Maidstone
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The oil cooler take offs from the filter housing are press-fit with rubber O-rings and a retaining clip which bolts down..........might be tricky to replicate.
Other options could include using a 9000 housing which has threaded take offs, but the threads are an unusual size IIRC.

I would look at having both an oil pressure and temperature gauge. Your best bet would be to use an oil filter sandwich plate to house the senders. Oil temp is the important bit for thrashing, and this often lags behind coolant by anything up to 10 minutes.

I believe the large rubber grommet is the best route for the wiring.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 17, 2015 5:35 pm
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Location: Newtown, Mid Wales
Car Model: 9-5 Aero Estate
yeah was thinking either copy them or the mechanic said he'd just tapped his out for -AN fittings which is an option.
Good info on the 9000 part thank you, i'll have a read.

Mm a sandwich adaptor seems the easiest route, hadnt really considered doing it that way.
Also hadnt really thought of the temp sender for overheating, good call.

you generally seem to be the first/only one to reply, appreciate it!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 9:40 pm 
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Just buy a remote braided take off from the pressure switch to fit whatever threads you need and ideally use a capillary oil gauge. You can also get a sump plug mount for the temp gauge.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 9:54 pm 
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Car Model: 9-5 Aero Estate
I've got an oil filter sandwich plate for my oil pressure gauge sender, was an easy option. You can generally tell from the oil pressure what the temperature is - when cold it's over 7 bar at idle, but this drops down to around 1.5 bar when hot. At 60 in 5th it's probably around 3 bar when hot - takes a fair few miles to get to up to temp. You soon get used to judging it - save the cash of another gauge for more super unleaded ;)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 3:11 pm 
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Location: South Wales
Car Model: 900 SE Stage 3
Spa design do a good looking combination gauge with senders. Not cheap but I’d prefer senders than capillaries into the interior that may leak in the future.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 8:00 pm 
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You can tell that its warmed up, but different oils can vary in pressure drop. The Saab engine has low oil pressure as std. If thrashing it, first thing to do is check the oil temp, if it goes too high for even a few mins under high load it could pick a bearing up or glaze the bores. I have experienced both in various cars.
I also don't think they have enough oil pressure to do high revs for long periods on large mileage engines. They are just losing oil out of the crank and if the oil is hot its probably not pumping as well as it should. I was told by someone that builds high reving engines that you want min 40-65 psi to keep up with reciprocating forces on the crank. I would fit spacers or a stronger spring in the relief valve on the oil pump then add a restrictor to the oil feed to the turbo so you don't blow the seals in that.
I recon a lot of these oil starvation issues on tracks are not always due to side loads, you never know it could be oil from the crank loosing oil film, which I recon is a given at such a low std pressure or is it pumping it all in the head????


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 9:51 pm 
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Car Model: 9-5 Aero Estate
My mum's Mazda 6 diesel had a blocked oil strainer resulting in loss of pressure and the oil light coming on. The oil was changed and the strainer cleaned up, but the same thing happened again, before the cause was eventually found to be an injector seal leak, which meant soot from combustion ended up in the oil, causing the blockage. The injector seals were finally replaced curing the problem, but by this time the bearings had lost a fair bit of material! We had an oil pressure gauge fitted so we could monitor the pressure. When cold it starts off at around 5 bar, but rapidly drops to around 0.5 bar when hot, even when driving along at 60! I've changed the oil to 5w50 to give it a little more viscosity when warm, which helps a little bit. Trouble is the stupid emissions system injects excess diesel into the engine to heat up and regenerate the particulate filter, but some of this finds its way into the sump, further diluting the oil...! It even has an extra mark on the dip stick showing when to change it as the diesel is added! :roll:
Anyway - it's been running like this for about 3 years and hasn't blown up yet, which I find pretty amazing. :shock:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 7:51 pm 
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I had that on my mazda 6. Mazda and Ford used that engine and nearly all are dead. Total rubbish, even better when it fills the sump full of fuel from the DPF.
You wont get that on the Saab engine as the injectors arnt in the head and not in the cam box as the Mazda is.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 12:42 pm 
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Location: Queenborough, Kent
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I used a sandwich adaptor on my 9000, works OK but is prone to leakage ... in respect of routing wires into the cabin, see my boost gauge installation topic here.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:20 am 
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sounds wrote:
I used a sandwich adaptor on my 9000, works OK but is prone to leakage ... in respect of routing wires into the cabin, see my boost gauge installation topic here.


A little loctite 518 on suitable surfaces deals with the leakage. Mine is dry as a gnats chuff.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:56 am 
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I think mine's leaking between the rubber seal and the oil filter housing / sandwich plate, rather than on the sensor threads. Given that 518 is designed for metal to metal contact, does it work OK on metal to rubber?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 5:44 pm 
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sounds wrote:
Given that 518 is designed for metal to metal contact, does it work OK on metal to rubber?


I put a thin smear between the sandwich plate and the filter housing..... seems to work just fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 5:55 pm 
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Thanks, I’ll give that a go in a months’ time when I do the next oil change :-)

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