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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 5:24 pm
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Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Model: 9000 Anni, 9-5s by the score
Back to yesterday.

This is the bracket that holds the OE horns and is very crusty. I had been given instructions to get it clean and paint it. I did as I was told. Well it was a lovely day for sitting in the sun doing very little
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MankyBracket.jpg
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God it's boring. It took ages to get this far. I have since looked for stove enamellers in the area who can blast it clean and coat it for as many beer vouchers as it takes.
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OddBolt.jpg
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What I did notice was the strange bolt (in the box) attached to the radiator. Any suggestions? Ill be posting it in the workshop too later. The arrow points to where the bracket bolts to so it's not for the horn.
Boredom lead me to try the "distressed look" on the Saab bit on the grill
Attachment:
BadgeDistressed.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 9:44 pm 
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Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Model: 9000 Anni, 9-5s by the score
Relax, I did it all.
Attachment:
BadgeTidy.jpg
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 10:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 5:24 pm
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Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Model: 9000 Anni, 9-5s by the score
Once all that was put back together, but no horn for now, I turned my attention to the Bodge to get the drivers window to work. It appears to be Uncool to be hanging out the door at McDonald's, ordering, paying and collecting and I need all the help I can get...
First task was to remove the door panel. Turns out to be a T20 I needed to remove the two screws/bolts in the handle not that I could see them properly. To be honest it was my first Saab door. I did have a spare door as a replacement which helped but them two...

I will defend the previous owner as he explained it was already like this when he got it. I will lambaste whoever prior to that thought the lash-up was a justifiable "repair". The repair uses a 3-position switch with Off in the middle. I presume one-way was to be Up and the other to be Down. It wasn't working because two wires "screwed" into one of the lighting blocks used had dropped out because they had come loose. There were all sorts of other wires soldered between connectors and different parts of the switch and for the sake of a couple of minutes the Fixee CNBA to use a tad more solder.

I was so disgusted I snipped the brown Earth (brown for earth??) wire and slung the whole thing into the passenger footwell, also where the previously mentioned McD wrappers end up. I got the Haynes BoL out and tried to follow the diagram. As best as I can decipher it's the switch in the middle that does the thinking and sends the current one way or t'other and the motor either goes up or down. If that's right then it was the central switch that was/is at fault. Luckily we have a spare. My cousin's breaker has paid it's way many times between our two cars.

What I am short of are some proper twin-wire connectors to make amends (and also for the horns) so I am sending off for some of them. When the circuitry is correct in the door I will swap the central switchbox for the electric windows and see what happens. By then I may have retrieved the offending switch and photographed it. If it is the switch the Fixee seems to have gone to a lot of trouble to avoid replacing that unit.

Busy weekend by my standards and productive too and that's not always the case.
Top of the ToDo list is the prep work for the wiring and find a local metal finishing place that does small items.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:46 pm 
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Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Model: 9000 Anni, 9-5s by the score
This is, as far as I've worked out from the wiring diagram, the simple end of the wires for the electric window. The red & black cables in the Box have had the connector chopped off. It should be connected (follow the arrow) to that connector. But one of the cables to that connector has been chopped (see the circles)
Attachment:
WindowBodge.jpg
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All the magic that changes the direction the Lemmings run through the cables is managed elsewhere.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 10:13 pm 
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Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Model: 9000 Anni, 9-5s by the score
Where that is is not in a rat's nest of wiring and a switch that is screwed through the door card such as this :shock: :shock: :shock: The switch is a 3-way with the centre position being Off. The arrowed black and red (just visible) wires were supposed to be screwed into the po*y block in the above post. They had worked lose from the screws and were disconnected. Which explains why the window wasn't working.
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RatsNest1.jpg
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Here's second pic from above. The amount of time spent getting the wiring figured out and the soldering done must have been a fair bit. But For crying out loud why? (That's the swear filter's version)
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RatsNest2.jpg
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The final bit of making a simple Unit swap into, well what?, an exercise in "because I can"?? Was the blue wire too short to be terminated as an earth? Did we just want the correct colour at the screwed into the door metal end??
The arrow wire is attached to the switch (bad photo, my bad), the bit in the square was slipped under a bolt in the door and did we spend all our money on solder and had none left for a nice bit of shrink-wrap...
Attachment:
RatsEarth.jpg
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 10:35 pm 
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Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Model: 9000 Anni, 9-5s by the score
Buoyed by progress I decided to investigate the aerial. Several bits of trim had to be removed to gain access. The first conundrum was why was there a pair of wires in the boot. I followed them and as they were under the rubber surround for the tailgate they handily helped me remove the rubber. Not their intended purpose I suspect. They were attached to the reversing light by the now familiar "shove it under the spade connector" method. Not a very informative photo I will admit, it's supposed to be showing that the end in the boot was cut with snips or similar
Attachment:
ReversingVooDo.jpg
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While moving the carpets and stuff I discovered why the reversing sensors didn't work. They have been cut too. Again, WHY?? A wild guess is that the cable from the reversing lights powered something when reverse gear was engaged. That this was the reversing sensors works for me after all you don't want them going bananas when an Artic is up your jacksy in a 50mph "roadworks" zone on the M6/5/4/3 (pick your own). But are the control boxes so valuable they are moved from vehicle to vehicle? I suppose I am about to discover for myself if I get this sorted and don't go for a reversing camera.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:00 pm 
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Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Model: 9000 Anni, 9-5s by the score
At least I am making progress. I know why the reversing sensors aren't working and that wasn't even on my ToDo list. I now have access to the aerial. Surely it can't be as simple as the connector wasn't err connected? I connected A to B and went to switch on the car and radio. Clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk it went. Giddily I got out of the car to see...nothing. No aerial what so ever. I sort of suspected with the clunks and not the gliding sound of an aerial extending smoothly. At least the detector for a jammed aerial works and cuts the power after six clunks. Again I find myself wondering which cheap :cen: has simply unplugged the connectors rather than spend £25 on a new aerial, or less on a new insides. A few pints and a pizza that's all it is.
Attachment:
AerialSorted.jpg
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I have attempted to remove the aerial and should have unbolted the CD cassette thingy first. The aerial is in a state of partial removal and I need some penetrating fluid and a pair of tough grips for my next attack. You'll not get any photos of my shabby work in progress, not from me anyway. :D

While I was round the back I took the reversing fog light bulbs out for an inspection. One is looking "sooty" and looks like it'll give up soon. I'll be trying LEDs in there, as I have done for most of the fleet to date. While I'm in the area I'll have a go at taking the number plate lights out and trying copaslip on the screws so that they'll come out easier than the 9-5s have so far. I may try LEDs too but experience to date has them flickering, not good but things have moved on and something out there may work.

I may also be pulling electrical connectors apart and giving them a squirt with cleaner and WD40 in the name of preventative maintenance.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 12:32 pm 
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Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Model: 9000 Anni, 9-5s by the score
Not much happened since the beginning of the week.

Up early so my day started properly.
Attachment:
bacon.jpg
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The the engineering place rang to say the horn bracket was ready to collect. I went at lunch time. It would have taken me days to clean it enough for painting so I'm declaring it worthwhile. £20 for shot blasting, undercoating and finishing. Just needs fitting now.
Attachment:
SameBracket.jpg
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