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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2019 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
On my way to the Limes meet today (fortunately on 2 miles from home) I stopped at a junction and found no gears. With the engine running it wouldn't let me select any. Did find reverse worked but only long enough to get back into a safer location and that was lost as well. No clutch at all.

Did a bit of a mini diagnosis and when the clutch pedal is pressed the slave cylinder bleed point near the front of the engine blew out mainly air and a tiny bit of fluid. No change to level in the reservoir despite repeat pumping.

Disconnected the union at the master cylinder outlet and found only the smallest dribble whilst pumping clutch.
Disconnected the reservoir feed to the master cylinder and that was fine and ran easily.
On this basis the 39year old seals have called it a day. Just got back from a 500 mile trip to Glasgow - glad it didn't happen then.

Decided to remove the master cylinder.
Disconnected the clutch pedal from the master cylinder yolk removing the split pin.
Clamped and disconnected the reservoir feed.
Removed the threaded union and pipe from the master cylinder outlet.
Removed the 2 bolts holding the master cylinder in place (from within the car).
Pulled the rubber dust cover back over the shaft so its not in the way when passing through the bulkhead.

Well it moves and wiggles but something is holding it in place.
It wiggles up and down but the nearside thread hardly even begins to move through the bulkhead.

Cannot find any reason why it won't move. I did note that the offside brake pipe passes really closely above the master clutch cylinder. It doesn't seem to be in the way but its impossible to get a view into this area. Camera phone useless. Might borrow an endoscope from our warranty team at work.

Next option: Slightly release the clutch framework attached to the inside bulkhead in case its somehow trapping the thread.

Won't stop raining though. - Getting rather frustrated and that's with sunshine and showers weather. Sunshine while getting car out and tools out. Showers start 1min after starting any job.

Advice gratefully received. What have I missed?
Followed Haynes book to the letter

Cheers

Jonathan


Last edited by JonBentley on Sat Sep 07, 2019 6:32 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2019 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Found a torch and my trusty mirror. All that effort to be thwarted by a plastic clip on the brake pipe that stopped the master cylinder pushing through.
Didn't mention that in Haynes !

Pushed the plastic tube along and hey presto it dropped out.
Master cylinder looks very crusty on the inside. Wonder if this is the reason for crunchy gears.

Seal kit on order from Saab bits.

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
I've got the clutch master cylinder out of the car and started to pull it apart.

1. pulled back the dust cover.
2. removed the circlip
3. removed the pushrod.

And that's it. The piston is retained in the cylinder by for want of a better word - metal olive.
The metal olive is completely stuck in place and doesn't want to move, and stops the spring pushing the piston out.

Image

I haven't tried levering it, or tapping it yet. Should I?

Have I a got a clutch master cylinder that should not be dismantled?
Do I buy a whole new master cylinder.


Last edited by JonBentley on Sat Sep 07, 2019 6:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Bought a new master cylinder as I been advised that with internal pitting and scratching that its probably false economy in the long run and its always likely to be less the perfect.

Sooo that's the end of that thread


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:47 pm
Posts: 2381
Wish I'd seen this sooner as I could have helped you out. We've just replaced ours and it was quite a tricky job. Just about ready to replace the seals on the slave cylinder now, which looks harder still to remove. Glad you got it sorted


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Now you have got my attention.

Got the new master cylinder in which was relatively straightforward after all the agro getting it out, but as usual I managed to make a mess of things as I tried to pre-bleed the master cylinder on the bench. Wish I hadn't as there was fluid everywhere. After getting it bolted up found I couldn't get the union from the main brake pipe to fit inside the thread so had to unbolt it and get it loose enough to wiggle the fitting into place. Then the new master cylinder had a bigger reservoir tube connection so while the pipe pushed on the original Saab pipe clamp was too small. Had to replace it with a small jubilee clip. All time lost faffing round in garage.

Got it all bolted and connected up but even after 1 hour I was still getting air out of system (10.30 at night in the dark). Having sat in the car pumping pedal my wife is now even less in love with the car than before so I daren't ask for her help this morning and bought a Gunson bleeding kit from Halfords instead. It one which you pressure fluid into the reservoir (as recommended in Haynes) using the pressure from the spare wheel. Brilliant. All air out in 5mins. and clutch working.

Been out for a drive and looking at a lot of drips below the car in a short period I now have a leak in the area of the slave cylinder. Certainly didn't have one before changing the master cylinder.
Just don't know where this is coming from. Tightened up the bleed valve so am guessing is either the fluid connection onto the slave cylinder or the seals on the slave cylinder. So tomorrow I'll get the cover off and have a look.

While researching all things C900 in terms of clutch hydraulics it seems the slave cylinders can cause problems so as mines 39 yrs old no doubt it may be wise to swap it now before I'm stranded somewhere by the side of the motorway. Been reading Hayes and disappointed that to remove the slave cylinder I have to remove the clutch. Never done a clutch before and wasn't planning on starting now - or should I give it a go?. There is obviously a special tool to hold the spring in but it seems you can do it with an old HT lead. The rest didn't seem so bad..but I can make a mess of anything.

Are you going to have a go?
I note Saabits sell the slave cylinders (£65.00) and being an early car I would have to get an extra special spacer bit.
Is it feasible at home without the special tools and a pretty basic tool kit?

Have you seen this?
http://www.skandix.de/en/documents/inst ... k/3000125/


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:47 pm
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Yes, we are going to have a go. No alternative really as the car is immobile and has various bits missing atm.

I have seen the Scandix guide thanks, and there are quite a few threads both on here and on Saabscene. I was going to just get the £8 slave seal kit, but I am wondering if replacing the whole slave cylinder wouldn't be better as getting it out seems quite traumatic.

I don't think the spacer tool is available anymore so we were going to go down the ht lead route.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:36 pm
Posts: 220
Location: Orpington, Kent
Car Model: 1987 SAAB 900i
If either of you wish to borrow it, I have the spacer tool as I did a clutch and gearbox change last year. PM me if you are interested.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 11:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:23 am
Posts: 381
Location: Leicestershire
Car Model: 1992 900i, 1984 T16S “Snufkin”
I'll post this link here in case I can't find it again...:roll:
https://www.saabcentral.com/threads/one ... ost-849795


Last edited by Dr Rock on Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 11:46 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:36 pm
Posts: 220
Location: Orpington, Kent
Car Model: 1987 SAAB 900i
Liking that method Dr Rock, hats off on the lowering car onto clutch plate (with socket etc) to remove spacer. It's inspired! :D

I agree, it's not a terribly difficult job, take your time, be methodical, don't do it if you want the car in a hurry, or if it's hot/too cold. Allow a bit of time getting the pressure plate, slave cylinder and release bearing into the aperture, it's a squeeze but it got out of there, it must go back in. I cable-tied the whole assembly together, it can be a pain getting the remains of the cable ties out.
One thing you could do when you are there is the release bearing, if you've got a grumbly noise when the clutch is released that goes away when you depress the pedal, for £16 (or thereabouts) whilst you've got it all apart you can kill two birds with one stone.

Removing the bonnet is a bonus too. Two bolts, and a volunteer and you get nicer access without the feeling that the bonnet is trying to eat you! Perhaps that is to only disadvantage of a front-hinged bonnet, that and 'Woollarding' becomes impossible. :lol:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Woollard

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:21 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:23 am
Posts: 381
Location: Leicestershire
Car Model: 1992 900i, 1984 T16S “Snufkin”
LOL. Can one “Woollard” with a modern car, given the seeming lack of bumpers on cars these days...?


Last edited by Dr Rock on Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:36 pm
Posts: 220
Location: Orpington, Kent
Car Model: 1987 SAAB 900i
The only 'modern' thing I managed to successfully "Woollard" this afternoon was a UPS truck, but that's got huge bumpers on it.

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