UKSaabs

Thanks, it is beautiful but sadly the clutch doesn't fit inside the gearbox casing itself, which means at the minute I am going to have to buy a single plate kit which takes upto 455ftlbs which should be enough but a headache I could do without. I'm hoping the input shaft reaches as its been cut down a bit.



The problem I have.

The original clutch finishes by the fingers and the thrust bearing sits against them, but the tilton one has raised black outer casing and the studs, these are actually pressing into the arm and the back of the box so I cant get the gearbox on and the thrust bearing is about 20mm away from the fingers.

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

That is a pita

Shame a clutch that looks so nice should be hidden away really.

There is a 6mm g.box spacer plate available which should give the clearance need for the box. Then it just needs a spacer behind the release bearing.

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Project 9-3GT 484Bhp & 483lb ft / 654Nm
trackcar.


Mini cooper S 240Bhp

Minor update, slow progress sadly.

After a fair bit of measuring I think I might just squeeze a single plate clutch in, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

I've measured from engine face to flywheel face and that measures 25mm. The lip is about 2.5mm, which is where the clutch will sit as it is a step clutch, so 22.5mm
The inside of the box to the mating face measures between 60mm - 63mm. This leaves me with a maximum clutch height of 40.5mm

A sintered single plate clutch overall is 39.4mm, a cerametallic is 41.1mm. (this is going off tiltons measurements)

Cerametallic Clutch
https://www.competitionsupplies.com/1/1 ... ll_dwg.pdf

Sintered Clutch
https://www.competitionsupplies.com/1/1 ... i-7.25.pdf

I've read that sintered race clutch are an absolute pig as it is on or off, how true I don't know, and the cerametallic is better for a bit of road use along with track. I will have to nip off the excess threads which hold the fingers in place on the back but it should JUST fit.

Also, while the engine the steering rack boot needed replacing so that's one job off the list. Going to poly the other side of the rack too.
New

Old


Also ordered a few bits like an oil return pipe for the turbo and some gearbox oil.

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Minor update, finally got a single plate clutch. With any luck now I can start bolting everything together and get it back on it's wheels, feels like ages since I've touched it.

It's a double grey, ultra high ratio (455lbft). Guy said it would be a pig to press clutch and nightmare for road use. Looking forward to it !

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Annnnd the thrust bearing doesnt reach the pressure plate so its gettin the standard flywheel and viggen/aero clutch.

Going to speak to competition supplies see if theres anything that can be done. There is a hydraulic thrust bearing but the box is a cable shift. The thrust bearing is around 1"-2" too short at full throw.

For future reference dont try go for a 7.25" as it doesn't fit, even a single plate is bang on depth of box. Expensive mistake, twice.

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Usually enjoy tinkering but today was tedious. Went to lockup last night and split my 93 LPT box and pinched the flywheel and clutch. So back to a Viggen/Aero clutch and standard flywheel until I decide what to do. No fun in the rain trying to mate a gearbox and engine alone when both moving different directions!

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Not had any time of late to work on the car as work has been crazy, it ain't the weather either and Christmas is due.

Engine and box and all mounted and loom back into the cabin. Dropped the sump, was bit burnt so cleaned up, resealed and refitted. The injectors are fitted, they were same size as the reds that came out so I can only guess I don't need spacers?
ECU going away for a base map to get it running and I'm going to use the T5 valve over the T7 valve. All the suspension is together now too.

Still got things like braided water and oil lines to make, fit fuel pump, few earths and intercooler pipework to be redone but going in the right direction

And thanks to a kind chap on here for a wiring diagram to trace a loose wire I have.




Anyone come across split poly like below?

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Car back on it's wheels, gearbox filled with oil and aligned linkage so I now have 6 gears! I just need to shave some of the plastic away under the gaiter to allow it to drop from 5 to 6.
Fitted the 1 bar springs in the each external waste gates and got them fitted back onto the manifold.
In the process of making the oil and water lines for the turbo so that should hopefully be done this week once last bits arrive.

The exhaust company I used snapped 1 of the manifold studs, the one under the PAS of all places so the pump has been taken off and going to have a go at removing it. Failing that my friend has a helicoil kit. I've replaced the others with A4 M8 x 20mm stainless allen bolts (from memory).

ECU is also back with a map that won't kill car hopefully.







How it stands

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Jet Washed Manifold and bake on gasmark 5 for 15 minutes



Copied the TD04 orientation of the drain and feed (will be doing another check on this when on car)

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

More progress






Crossflow intercooler kit is on the way so will see how that fits...Ordered a Spal blower type fan (VA10-AP50/C61S), as when the exhaust was made they never allowed for the damn fan and there is NO room, going to move the intercooler forward and 2-3 inches so the fan will sit inbetween the intercooler and radiator.

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Make sure to use some other under bonnet heat shielding, mine literally went up in smoke and yours looks a tad higher / closer to it.

And yeah it gets chubby tight for a fan to fit in

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Project 9-3GT 484Bhp & 483lb ft / 654Nm
trackcar.


Mini cooper S 240Bhp

that does look like a tight squeeze. It seems almost a shame to hide it all behind bodywork as it's going to be an awesome creation when complete.

What is the depth of the standard cooling fan?

There are low profile fans available - I remember fitting some to a VR6 engined VW transporter. The fans were ridiculously low profile and the heat had killed the fan blades which had disintegrated over time.
I replaced the twin fan set up with 2 of this type which are less than 7cm deep, which actually gave an extra few cm of space in the engine bay. Still running 3 years later.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Davies-Craig- ... SwI-BWNHeI

might be worth looking at that sort of thing if you're struggling for space?

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JZW Stage 3+ 2.8T & Tech 2 owner
'03 Jaguar X-Type 3.0
Follow me on Instagram @QuadCamTurbo

Thanks for suggestions guys. I'm hoping to make a heatshield of some sort that will cover the lot but yeah will remove a section above manifold.

I am just avoiding cutting the bumper bar, there's about 2.5inches between radiator and intercooler. Think the Spal one is 62mm. I looked at them Davies Craig fans too!

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

All coolant hoses connected so I can now fill with coolant. Intercooler silicone hoses in place, just need to join them together. Front bumper bar needs a little shave though.







Intercooler touching the fan just....



Bosch pump and filter (also got some of them cottom reel type mounts)


Fan


Cut off Saab plug and soldered to the spal fan. Going to drop the fuse size too.



3Bar map sensor wiring done





Going to be tight this part






By the end of this weekend everything should be able to start the car with a pair of tights over the 4" silicone hose!

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Managed to get the car running today, no great success but still step in the right direction. Just glad I got some heat into it as it has been sat for quite a while, manifold is now a golden brown.









Video
https://i.imgur.com/5Nuqk05.mp4

Fixed the idling issue out (pin in the ecu plug had been dragged out so wasn't making contact with ecu for idle valve), and brakes all bled.

Few things need addressing.

Can't select gears while engine is running but I can when its off. New clutch cable I am hoping sorts this as there is about 2 inch of throw on the level on the box still, and when fully back I can get them.

As the external 044 is making all sorts of noise, I think the one in the tank is holding it back. Just going to bypass the pump with a piece of hose and leave the relay out. I was under the impression the bosch needed feeding.

Then a case of tidying up the wiring and other bits and bobs like headlights fitting, a passenger seat, SRS light clearing, relocate PAS pipework, intake and intercooler all making in hard pipe, wideband, heatshields then finally the biggest brakes I can get my hands on.

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It's big, it's brassy and I'm going to blow it!

Signature! Two such projects on one forum is already an encyclopedia for anyone) We are waiting for graphics with dino, mine will be only next season, we need to reconfigure for 400 hp