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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:55 am 
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I will put this here first, then the mods can have a think where to put it -no not there.

Rob

I hope it helps one and all.

95/96/EMS/GLE Soccerball/Honeycombe Alloy Restoration

For Saabologist and others……………….

I have never done a full set of 96/97 soccers, but only one for pleasure (I will call these 96) but I’ve done plenty of EMS/GLE (I will call these 99) ones and although they are a pain to do and very time consuming, great pleasure will be had after the finished result and there will be many swoons at SAAB meetings + you can do the hard work on newspaper in the front room or as I did sat on a SAAB forecourt surrounded by SAABs in the glorious summers of 1978 onwards, when I was a lad, happy days, aye!

99 ones were rubbish from new when they came from the factory, with the edges of the lacquer lifting and going white, after a few hundred miles, they had spider legs running through the lacquer, if you have these type with lacquer still on them, the only thing to do is use Nitromors and plenty of it.

Early 99 were very similar to 96, later 99(yes! 900 had them also, before anyone shouts out) were black/gold holes, then turned on a lathe and then lacquered.

HEALTH AND SAFETY WARNING

Carrying out the below process will cause loss of blood, aching joints, and the underneath of your nails leaving you fingers, bleeding knees, if your in shorts, or Haemorrhoids if sat down on cold concrete, ZAPHOD can finish this bit off……………..



You will notice that the 96 wheels have a finish quite rough(ish) similar to orange peel, all this has to go if you want your wheels to look like the one in the picture posted below.

You will need:

Patience, TCP and plasters.

Clean bucket

Bar of soap
Wet and dry paper grades, 240/360/400/800/1200/2000(if you can get it, if not rub 2 bits of 1200 together and you will roughly have 2400.

A flat medium grade file and needle files

A piece of soft wood about 5mm thick x about 50/60mm

Other assortments of wood for wrapping flatting paper round

High quality flat (15/20mm) and 5mm soft touch-up brushes

Tin of gloss black brush ON engine lacquer

Small tin of Cellulose thinners

An old jar/mug for washing brushes in

A Green Scotch-Brite

Tac-Rag

Solvo Autosol

Smooth cotton clothes/pillow cases(the kids will never miss ‘em.)

I might have missed something off, I’ll have to have a print and think.

Get a full bucket of warm water and drop your soap in it

I had to do all the ones I did with the tyres on, (hence, nail departing finger, gets caught on rubber, hurts very much so!) with a bit of luck yours might not have, if they have not any tyres fitted I suggest that you rub all around the inside of the rims –where the tyre seals - with 240 and then finish with 600, you can now either spray the inside of the rims with Gloss Black or Silver and clear Acrylic Lacquer (don’t leave bare metal – personally I would go for black) the simple reason for this is – when/if you ever coat your tyres with something like Meguiers tyre dressing it will not matter if you smudge the rim slightly as you won’t see it, you will also not see the dust stuck to it as you do with Silver – I’m sure you’ve seen it.

So that’s your first bit over – easy – now you have some graft to do.

Over the years the black part can become brittle, (99s did, it came off in little sheets like “Pringles”) if it is, remove it all with Nitromors.

Have a good look all around the rim for curb damage and sharp burrs/cuts, if you have!!!!!, these will have to be dressed with your flat file, just take the tops of the sharp parts off, then wrap your 240 around the file and wet flat until the damage is flat with the circumference of the wheel. If you have a cut going around the edge, dress with the file and paper,(BEST DO THIS BEFORE THE INNER RIMS, SILLY ME!)

Take your green scotch-brite and key/rub all the black surfaces up (if you have any, they will still need rubbing though, even if they are plain alloy). Look in all the nitty gritty corners for bits of stuck on tarmac gravel/grit, furk out with a screwdriver or your finger if you have.

WASH WHEEL AND HOSE OFF – THIS IS DONE JUST IN CASE YOU HAVE ANY GRIT HIDING, AS YOU DO NOT WANT ANY GRIT UNDER YOUR FLATTING PAPER, IT MAKES A RIGHT MESS AND YOU WILL WANT TO SIT ON YOUR MUMS KNEE, CRY AND HAVE A TANTREM ON THE KITCHEN FLOOR.

Flatting

All alloys will differ, some may have a rougher finish, some maybe softer alloy, so only you can decide what grade of paper is required to rid the roughish casting marks which came from the casting sand or material used in the original casting.

Get your bucket!

I suggest trying a test area on the large ‘Honeycombe’ area first to see what is needed, once you have decided what grade, get flatting.

Where the spokes meet the honeycombes, you will need to fold the paper and gently rub in the corner – not to much as you will end up with a groove, the same goes for where the wheel meets the outer rim lip, use your bits of wood and keep looking closely, don’t over do it.

What you are trying to do is – getting the casting marks off, but still to leave some which is just visible, and I mean JUST VISIBLE – get some 1200 and have a little go and to see how muck effort it takes to make the surface FLAT and FREE from the previous flatting paper, if you are happy, keep on flatting, if not try some 800, then back to 1200, TRY VERY HARD WHEN FLATTING, ESPECIALLY THE FINAL PART TO FLAT IN A RADIAL MOTION AS IF YOU ARE A HUMAN LATHE, once you are VERY HAPPY, rub 2 bits of 1200 together and flat again, are you happy now?

Your prints on the ends of your fingers should now have disappeared and look like prunes, if you very closely look at the very ends of your fingers you should see very small miniscule holes have appeared and blood will be vacating. (he, he!), if not – and I’ve already said this to BIRDIEMANGO –yer not trying hard enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WASH YOUR WHEELS OFF AGAIN – THIS IS TO RID THE TINY BITS OF FLATTING PAPER THAT HAS DROPPED OFF –REMEMBER THE KITCHEN FLOOR? –YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

There are two things you can do now, you can wipe the wheels off with thinners/dry and then tac rag and paint all the black areas with your brush, be quick about it, if you smudge on the flatting area, wipe with a a damp rag with thinners (don’t dribble though). Once very dried and cured. Start with your Solvo Autosol, if your standing up and doing it, your shoulders will drop off, if you do them kneeling down, your knees will bleed – but at least you can use your body weight, but then your finger joints will kill you – no win situation really, no pain –no gain!!

………….or Solvo first then paint, but if you use thinners on your polished bits, they will go a funny colour and you will have to rub them again on the funny coloured areas, no real deal though, really.

…….you could also lacquer them (UGH!) with acrylic lacquer, but unless your very confident the lacquer will run like Niagara of the polished bits + the finish will have a slightly creamy appearance + your back to spiders legs.

…………..You can also spray the black bits after flatting the top surfaces with 600, wipe the excess off with thinners, mask the black bits off, using Stanley blades for the cuts, prime, (lightly – not thick) then spray the silver on and then clearcoat.

Right, I’m done I think, any questions, just ask.

Most of the above can be used for all types of alloys and metals – not steel; it will go rusty if you breathe on it.

Duration for typing this out: 3 Hours, 17 minutes, I hope that you can use it and maybe sticky it and if there’s any spelling or grammar mistakes, I don’t give a monkees.!!!!!!

Cheers for now.

Rob

PS Had a look through, please bare in mind that the now polished surfaces are naked to the elements, for show use mainly I suppose, but I would suggest a quick wipe with some 3 in 1 oil to add a little protection if using for prolonged periods, for gods sake don’t use them in winter, or do the 1000 Lakes with them on.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:31 am 
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Car Model: 900Ruby,vert, 9000, 99, Sonett
Rob Beard wrote:
.....................Duration for typing this out: 3 Hours, 17 minutes, I hope that you can use it and maybe sticky it and if there’s any spelling or grammar mistakes, I don’t give a monkees.!!!!!!................

This sounds like a challenge!! :lol: :lol:

Honeycombe - Honeycomb
TANTREM - Tantrum
miniscule - Minuscule
monkees - Monkeys
furk - Fork (I hope :mrgreen: )

Great post Rob. Soccerballs can look really great if they're looked after but they can look terrible if they're left uncared for.

(Correct own grammar.... Mustn't end sentences with a preposition!! :park: )

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 11:02 am 
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Location: Derby Township
Car Model: SAAB 900S/GOLF GTI CLUBSPORT
Furk is a very old word - it means to prod, poke about :lol: :lol:

Monkees was spelt like that because the thread was a little jovial :lol: :lol:

I'm going on holiday, a week in Ifracombe, taking in Wollacombe and I may fit Combe Martin bay whilst there :lol:

Sod the rest, I screem and scrheeeeem 'til I'm sick.

Love from your dearest

Bobby Boots.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 11:49 am 
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Car Model: 900Ruby,vert, 9000, 99, Sonett
Have a great time. See how many RED cars there are that way. I haven't been down that way for years. Last time was around 1980. Stayed in a little village called Croyde. Lovely place. :park:


Furk....
Too old to be in the Official Scrabble Words dictionary....


4 letter "F" words...

FACE FACT FADE FADO FADS FADY FAFF FAGS FAHS FAIK FAIL FAIN FAIR FAIX FAKE FALL FALX FAME FAND FANE FANG FANK FANO FANS FARD FARE FARL FARM FARO FARS FART FASH FAST FATE FATS FAUN FAUX FAVA FAVE FAWN FAWS FAYS FAZE FEAL FEAR FEAT flip FEDS FEED FEEL FEER FEES FEET FEGS FEHM FEHS FEIS FELL FELT FEME FEMS FEND FENI FENS FENT FEOD FERE FERM FERN FESS FEST FETA FETE FETS FETT FEUD FEUS FEYS FIAR FIAT FIBS FICE FICO FIDO FIDS FIEF FIER FIFE FIGO FIGS FIKE FIKY FILA FILE FILL FILM FILO FILS FIND FINE FINI FINK FINO FINS FIRE FIRK FIRM FIRN FIRS FISC FISH FISK FIST FITS FITT FIVE FIXT FIZZ FLAB FLAG FLAK FLAM FLAN FLAP FLAT FLAW FLAX FLAY FLEA FLED FLEE FLEG FLEW FLEX FLEY FLIC FLIP FLIT FLIX FLOC FLOE FLOG FLOP FLOR FLOW FLUB FLUE FLUS FLUX FOAL FOAM FOBS FOCI FOEN FOES FOGS FOGY FOHN FOHS FOID FOIL FOIN FOLD FOLK FOND FONE FONS FONT FOOD FOOL FOOT FOPS FORA FORB FORD FORE FORK FORM FORT FOSS FOUD FOUL FOUR FOUS FOWL FOXY FOYS FOZY FRAB FRAE FRAG FRAP FRAS FRAT FRAU FRAY FREE FRET FRIG FRIS FRIT FRIZ FROE FROG FROM FROW FRUG FUBS FUCI :cen: FUDS FUEL FUFF FUGS FUGU FUJI FULL FUME FUMS FUMY FUND FUNG FUNK FUNS FURL FURR FURS FURY FUSC FUSE FUSS FUST FUTZ FUZE FUZZ FYCE FYKE FYLE FYRD

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 9:29 am
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Location: Chesham, Bucks
Car Model: 95
I'm just about to tackle some alloy wheels, so this is great timing/advice.

I've done the nitromors stage, which is the easy bit. I want them to be like soccerball alloys with some parts in black with raised shiney edges. As I don't have a bench or even electricity in my lockup, I was thinking I could bolt a wheel on to the car, jack up that side, put it in 1st and hold paper to wheel. Obviously spinning them at 70mph mighty be slightly insane - but just faster than idling will be better than nothing.

If you're very upset about how potentially dangerous this could be, don't worry, I won't make you look!

Have a great time in Devon, Wollacombe and Croyde are beautiful places with great surf - the surf cafe at Westward Ho! is well worth a visit, they do amazing hot chocolates and lovely food. We're heading there in a couple of weeks.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:37 pm 
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UK_Sub wrote:
As I don't have a bench or even electricity in my lockup, I was thinking I could bolt a wheel on to the car, jack up that side, put it in 1st and hold paper to wheel. Obviously spinning them at 70mph mighty be slightly insane - but just faster than idling will be better than nothing.


Bear in mind that no-load idle speed will still work out to somewhere around a few mph - doubled, if the other front wheel's still on the ground because of the diff doing it's job. Call it 5mph.

5mph = 8kph = 133m/min = 2.2 m/sec.
With a typical tyre size and overall diameter of about 635mm, that means the wheel's going to be rotating at about 3.5 revolutions per second. You catch your finger on a spoke or even the valve at that kind of speed, that's going to HURT.

Don't be daft. If you must be daft, don't be a total fool - make sure that you're holding the paper and your hand to the wheel the "right way round".

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:45 pm 
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Location: Chesham, Bucks
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Thanks for the advice, although I suspect everyone on here will say 'don't do it'. Can't say I blame them.

I was trying to think of a fairly easy way of sanding the rims, an alternative was to rig something up with a drill and vice etc.

Alternatively I guess I could find someone with a lathe?

I apologise if any of you spat out your tea at my earlier suggestion!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:48 pm 
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UK_Sub wrote:
Thanks for the advice, although I suspect everyone on here will say 'don't do it'. Can't say I blame them.

I was trying to think of a fairly easy way of sanding the rims, an alternative was to rig something up with a drill and vice etc.


<cough> elbow grease?

Look, I don't have a problem if you DO want to do it that way - I seem to recall Emmett did just that with his Super Aeros, but they're a much simpler (and, more importantly, smoother) design. Just make sure you rig up a video feed for us all to have a giggle...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:58 pm 
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Ha! I know what you mean, I'm not trying to be lazy, just efficient. I also thought I would get a more uniform/smooth surface from spinning the wheels, rather than in small sections by hand - but I don't suppose people will look at them THAT closely!?

Also, I was thinking 2pac lacquer would work well to preserve the shiny bits, rather than leaving them open to the elements. I had some polished aluminium light surrounds on a car that went white and furry - very quickly. Wish I'd known about the 3in1 idea!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 8:05 pm 
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Awesome Rob.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 8:38 pm 
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UK_Sub wrote:
Ha! I know what you mean, I'm not trying to be lazy, just efficient. I also thought I would get a more uniform/smooth surface from spinning the wheels, rather than in small sections by hand - but I don't suppose people will look at them THAT closely!?

Also, I was thinking 2pac lacquer would work well to preserve the shiny bits, rather than leaving them open to the elements. I had some polished aluminium light surrounds on a car that went white and furry - very quickly. Wish I'd known about the 3in1 idea!


Piffle! young man! :wink: What you do with your hands makes the feel it in your soul, you feel everything, it gives you craftsmanship, it gives you perfection, it gives you pride.......you can only feel perfection through your fingertips, not through a drill, eyes, feel, touch, perfection, Nothing On Earth Comes Close......................I liked that I did..

Rob

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