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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 11:03 am 
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
Well i got it :mrgreen:
27hrs driving non stop got back 7am this morning, had a quick sleep now just about to clean it off take some pics.

It was in a huge garage full of Saabs at the foot of a 1250m mountain :shock: among his collection V4s, 90, 99, 900, 9000 (nothing GM) a lot of them are for sale also all corrosion free :park:
It starts and runs even the AC works. Few dings in the body work and bits and bobs I need to find but overall very clean.
On the trailer ready to come back.

Image2018-08-10_01-00-38


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:46 am
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Location: suffolk
Car Model: 1993 9000 2.0 cse
looks good matey i like gold im weird like that ive had loads of gold cars = cheap and really tidy as normally owned by older folks
does it look better or worse now its right infront of you
plenty of 9000s look of then you look under the back end and cry i looked at about ten before buying mine = no rust
i bet if it was black red etc you would of never seen it or owned it

if around the screens good and under the back ends good then your half way there

i would look inside the rear side carpets and get your hand down the inside edge as somtimes there is rust but you cant see it as it hidden by metal outside and carpet inside
so behind the rear wheel on the inside above the drain you will feel it with your hand if its rusty you wont have to remove the whole carpet sides if your skinny armed or have kids :D
also you know 9000s drain water in through the rear hatch lock hole drains
it drains into the boot theres 3 drains under the cover across the back of the hatch bottom rear
one drain in the middle one either side it drains into the wheel well :loco:
what a stupid idea why do 9000s rust at the back i wonder

so if you park flat not so bad as it will mostly exit the wheelwell never fully drains out though
but park left side right side down etc then rust behind the rear wheels starts unseen for years till it too late

so make some hoses from the 3 drains to outside makes alot of sense eh few quid in hoses saves alot of welding
id happily drive that 9000 it looks smart
dave

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Last edited by scanditurbo on Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2017 4:17 pm
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
After a quick wash off it really is clean underneath engine bay everywhere. Front winds have some scrapes dents to sort out couple elsewhere nothing serious.

Took it for a run up the road and gearbox mounts are shot, and a misfire under boost you can hear the fuel pump whining so probably that.

He gave me a spare DIC in the boot but that doesn’t look good splits in it he had changed it.

Image2018-08-10_04-42-49

Image2018-08-10_04-43-03

Image2018-08-10_04-43-15

Image2018-08-10_04-42-15

Image2018-08-10_04-42-31

Image2018-08-10_04-42-40


Last edited by richfr on Fri Aug 10, 2018 3:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 3:02 pm 
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
scanditurbo wrote:
looks good matey i like gold im weird like that ive had loads of gold cars = cheap and really tidy as normally owned by older folks
does it look better or worse now its right infront of you
plenty of 9000s look of then you look under the back end and cry i looked at about ten before buying mine = no rust
i bet if it was black red etc you would of never seen it or owned it

if around the screens good and under the back ends good then your half way there

i would look inside the rear side carpets and get your hand down the inside edge as somtimes there is rust but you cant see it as it hidden by metal outside and carpet inside
so behind the rear wheel on the inside above the drain you will feel it with your hand if its rusty you wont have to remove the whole carpet sides if your skinny armed or have kids :D
also you know 9000s drain water in through the rear hatch lock hole drains
it drains into the boot theres 3 drains under the cover across the back of the hatch bottom rear
one drain in the middle one either side it drains into the wheel well :loco:
what a stupid idea why do 9000s rust at the back i wonder

so if you park flat not so bad as it will mostly exit the wheelwell never fully drains out though
but park left side right side down etc then rust behind the rear wheels starts unseen for years till it too late

so make some hoses from the 3 drains to outside makes alot of sense eh few quid in hoses saves alot of welding
id happily drive that 9000 it looks smart
dave



Only had my hand in not removed the carpet yet but just full of waxoil.
Not found any corrosion yet.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2017 4:17 pm
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
scanditurbo you are right very small amount of surface rust right hand rear right down inside I needed a mirror to see it should be able to treat it no problem maybe look at doing the mod you suggested. To answer you question earlier, is it better now I have it, yes much better than I thought a 1991 car could be my 2010 TTiD isn’t as good almost all the bolts are still gold strut tops etc

I was going to change the pump with the red car as its groaning and may be the cause of the misfire (He said he had changed the DIC) when I pulled the cover off I found this

Image2018-08-12_07-08-15

It was weeping a bit when removed the chemical metal it was completely broken.
Maybe this is the cause of the missfire and noise sucking air :?:

Image2018-08-12_07-08-48

Did a temp repair on the pipe fired it up and it’s the same the pump also sounds the same. Will pull the red cars pump tomorrow and give that a try.
Then new plugs and if not I guess a new DIC.

I'm putting up a temp garage so I can get cracking with the rebuild I’m currently using my dad’s and not fair to use it for the whole rebuild. Been dropping trees and clearing some land.
Once it’s up will be big enough for both cars will strip the red car first get rid of what I don’t need.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:32 pm 
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
Busy sorting out the garage but have changed the pump and plugs it’s the same (but quieter) so I guess need a new Di I have 3 but 2 are really badly cracked leaking oil my original looks ok but misfire is worse with that one shame was working when parked up :roll:

No point getting one now get it when it’s done.

Will get the garage sorted then strip the red one.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2017 4:17 pm
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
Does anybody know the colour of the Carlsson leather seats? Trying to get some dye to restore them but have been told 3 different colours dover grey, mid grey buffalo grey.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:00 am 
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Joined: Mon May 30, 2005 1:37 pm
Posts: 2191
Location: UK, USA, Deutscheland
Car Model: sorted 9000 Aero; 9000R
Nice project, good to see another one saved. I think transferring to the rust free shell makes so much more sense, this way you will end up with a completed project much sooner.

Hard question; do you keep it gold or convert it all to red?

Good luck


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:39 am 
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
Aerohead wrote:
Nice project, good to see another one saved. I think transferring to the rust free shell makes so much more sense, this way you will end up with a completed project much sooner.

Hard question; do you keep it gold or convert it all to red?

Good luck


It has to be red :D so full strip will paint it inside, under bonnet and underneath arches etc do it properly.
Want to take all the glass out as well if I can find somebody here in France to put it back in.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 11:27 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:57 am
Posts: 4
Car Model: 1991 Saab CD Carlsson 2.3t x 2
richfr wrote:
Aerohead wrote:
Nice project, good to see another one saved. I think transferring to the rust free shell makes so much more sense, this way you will end up with a completed project much sooner.

Hard question; do you keep it gold or convert it all to red?

Good luck


It has to be red :D so full strip will paint it inside, under bonnet and underneath arches etc do it properly.
Want to take all the glass out as well if I can find somebody here in France to put it back in.


I agree with red. :) Really enjoying reading your posts. It's giving me encouragement to start working on my Saab's again. :D


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 9:36 am 
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
Carlssonjj wrote:

I agree with red. :) Really enjoying reading your posts. It's giving me encouragement to start working on my Saab's again. :D


Thanks I'm building a garage so I can get working on them, so updates not happen until I get that finished.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2018 4:25 pm 
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
Couple of updates I got a pair of 1991 2.3 Carlsson ECUs from a forum member.
The fuel ECU is the same it was the red APC that I wanted.

Image2018-09-02_06-16-43

I also put some new plugs in it in the hope my old DI unit was ok, and it ran ok. Didn’t feel very quick, I unplugged the APC valve to see what base boost was and it was really flat not much at all, plugged it in and got boost about half in the orange.
I then took the seat out and plugged the red APC unit in and instant boost just into the red on the gauge. Felt much quicker I wouldn’t say 200bhp quick prob needs base boost lifting a bit and new fuel it is very old.

I might hook up a boost gauge to see what it is. I'm going to rebuild the motor anyway so don’t want to push my luck now.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 6:33 pm
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Location: NETTLEHAM, LINCOLNSHIRE
Car Model: 99GL, Fiat 500 & Volvo V70
Keep the updates coming, really interested in how this one progresses.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2018 7:22 pm 
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
Espin99 wrote:
Keep the updates coming, really interested in how this one progresses.


Sorry bit slow at the moment but I will get it done.
Got a lot going on. Finishing off the temp garage I will be using just got to get the floor levelled and wood put down and can start stripping the red one.
A friend has given me a load of industrial lights so it will be well lit.

I also just noticed the inside edge on the 93 TTiD tyres are down to canvas :shock: plenty of tread but the edges are trashed.
Had a small rumbling from the rear and both wheel bearings need doing. It also needs front discs and pads so got that on order.
Want to paint the wheels so while the tyres are off been doing 2 of them today finger ends are worn out :park: worse wheel I have ever had to sand no flat to them at all.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2018 4:16 pm 
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Car Model: 9000 Carlsson. 93 Aero TTiD
I have just hooked up a boost gauge and given it a run and it has 5psi dropping to 4 psi on base boost.
With APC connected I did see it hit 16psi twice (felt good) but falls back very fast to nearer 10 but it has old fuel in it. Most pulls nearer 14psi.

Maybe the APC has been played with?? As far as I know 16psi (1.1bar) is very close to the fuel cut and if base boost was lifted (I think 6-7psi is stock) I would expect that to go up.
Previous owner thought it had been played with by Abbott and it ran at 1.5bar (22psi) on his car which is way over the standard fuel cut off.

For the rebuild I think I need a TD04 off an Aero, a better down pipe and remove the cat and see what boost it can run :mrgreen:


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