UKSaabs

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/gt30-GT3076-1 ... 3a6d2d2ff4

that's the GT30 variant they sell, t25 flanged too..

obviously you'll have to account for the clearance issues you may come accross and intake/downpipe mods too

Gonna be a bitch to fit but god damn theyre cheap!!

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.........Loving but still hating Saab's in equal amounts most days !!!

haven't had much chance to do much else really with house hunting and work getting in the way, along with the Puch maxi I'm rebuilding and the Daewoo lanos with a blown head gasket that i've got to fix and re-comission in time for my wife's birthday..

but luckily I've been in the welding workshop today so managed to get a little bit of work done on the navy's time

ages ago I had to remove my Abbott 2 point subframe brace becuase it wouldn't clear my 3" exhaust, I had a couple of stainless spacers made up and finally got them buzzed on today.

brace end with stainless spacer:



spacer in position:



bolt dropped through to keep it in place:



and finished:



really happy with the welding.. i'd go as far as to say it's better than whoever did abbott's fab work, which is quite undercut in places


anyway.. thats all for now, will try and get down to the car club tomorrow night to carry on with my engine build.

They look nice and neat

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.........Loving but still hating Saab's in equal amounts most days !!!

Is this the same china gt30 stuntmanad fitted? Went pretty well that 9k of his!!

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1st rule of fat club is you don't talk about fat club...

so, I managed to drag myself down to the car club tonight despite and overwhelming desire to lie on my bed and eat jaffa cakes.

the night was relatively fruitful.. managed to get the timing cover, chains, guides and balance shafts out.. however I did manage to break a balance shaft bearing housing when removing one of them which I'm extememely annoyed about..

timing cover off..



bearing housing broken looks like I'm going to need a new/used one of these if anyone can help??





I'm going to be deteting the balance shafts anyway, but afaik the bearing housings stay in place but with the oil supplies blanked off.

I then removed the crank, as is the case with the big ends the mains are in great condition visually, as long as they are ok once I've
mic'd the journals for size I'll give them a polish and leave them be.





the main bearings show slight signs of wear as expected, more than the big ends but nothing I'm worried about since they now reside in the bin.







and the thrust bearings, which seem fine (crank had very little end float)



with the block totally bare I cleaned up the deck, scraping off all traces of old gasket and giving it a very sympathetic going over with some fine wet&dry

during


after


This seems quite a small amount of work for 4 hours.. but I did potter about with other bits and pieces too like cleaning out the T7 sump which looks like it had been covered in tar inside and out, cleaning the T7 timing cover which had a nice thick coating of sludge on the inside.. I didnt get any before pictures but I'll get a few next time I'm down there.

next jobs to to are going to be:

finish porting head when my new carbide burrs arrive, then get it in the parts washer and checked for warpage

clean block up, blank off the oilways for the balance shafts, paint block

get the exhaust valves re-ground.. I considered trying to lap them in but I've decided they're too pitted and I don't want to risk it and regret it later.

anyway.. I hope everyone is enjoying my build.. and comments or suggestions more than welcome

I've managed to get a few little bits and pieces done this week, despite having a bad arm and being told by the doctor and physio to rest it..

on sunday night I noticed a dull clunking noise coming from the drivers side front when braking, going over low speed bumps and turning lock to lock with the car stationary.. now i knew it couldn't be the bushes or top mounts cause they were only fitted about 10k miles ago. I got the car up on the ramp, got the wheels off and started poking about, it turns out the sleeve nut holding the damper insert into the strut body had unwound it's self about 1 turn. Not wanting to remove the damper and spring to rectify the problem I managed to get a set of stilsons in between the coils of the spring and onto the sleeve nut and get a good bit of purchace on it, result!. Hopefully theres no lasting damage to the damper and if it happens again I'll strip it down and put some loctite on the nut.

while it was up in the air I took the opportunity to fit my modified subframe brace, it fits great and clears the downpipe.. not by much, but it clears and doesnt knock on it when the engine is moving about





clearance...



then I set to work stripping my spare cam covers, there's an awesome old buffer/polisher in the coppersmiths workshop at work so i'm going to polish one, paint the other and see which prefer

here it is in a tray covered in nitromors



scraping the paint off



and I forgot to get pics of it bare, but it is. my other cover with the lettering machined off is also covered in nitromors too and i'll scrape/wire brush that one off when I'm down there tomorrow.


tonight I only had an hour down there cause I've got to cover a duty for a few hours for a mate, so with a limited timescale I decided I'd strip the hydraulic lifters ready for cleaning/reconditioning

now, if you've never done this before it's nothing to worry about, very simple actually..

once the lifter is removed you need to put it face up on a soft-ish surface, I used a block of wood:



then put a brass drift ontop of it to protect the surface from impending hammer blows



then hit it, really hard, with a hammer a couple of times.. the aim of the game here is to 'pop' the piston out, which is held in with a little snap ring, it might take a few goes but you'll be able to tell when it's popped out of the body because you won't be able to rotate the piston freely

before, note the piston in the centre is sitting low



and after, note piston sitting high



at this point you can pull the piston the rest of the way out with a pair of pliers



and take it apart



the little part on the left of the picture contains a check valve, to allow the lifters to "pump up" when the engine is running, these can get gummed up and also the little oil feed in the side of the lifter body can get blocked so it's good practice to clean them out thoroughly.. the oil that came out of them was ganky and horrible

once you've done one then repeat 15 more times.. fun eh?

once I'd done them all I put all the seperate parts, and the valve collets from that cylinder in the lifter bucket, and put them all in a tupperware box which I'd pre-filled with parts washer fluid, tomorrow I'll take them out, clean them up and put them back together.





the only other thing I managed to get done was to remove the main caps from the parts washer which had been soaking for a few days.

here's one as it came out of the parts washer



and cleaned up



these were given a light coating of fresh engine oil and placed in order on the workbench with the rest of my engine bits.


I really feel like I'm making no/slow progress with this, I cant finish the head cause my carbide burrs haven't turned up, and I'm waiting till payday before I can get the little bits of machining done, but I suppose it takes time to do things properly and all the little bits add up into the big picture, hopefully I can make more/quicker progress soon.

the following night I returned to rebuild the (hopefully) clean lifters..

this is what I found when I opened the tupperware box.. delicious



so I set about cleaning out all of the ganky old oil and re-assembling them.. firstly I fished out the first lifter and cave them a thorough rinse off with hot water



then wiped them down, using a clean rag wrapped around a screwdriver to get into the hard to reach bits and gave them a dousing in penetrating fluid to get rid of any left over water



and then cleaned the moving parts using the same method



once all of the parts were spotlessly clean I laid them out ready to be put back together



the first job is to assemble the pump.. this is done by laying the outer part down and filling it with fresh engine oil



then installing the spring, using a small allen key to make sure it seats properly





then fill the smaller part of the pump with oil and put it into the bottom part



no pics of this bit cause it's a 2 handed job, but basically what you need to do is use a tiny allen key to push the check valve open so that you can push the inner completely into the outer, releasing any trapped air bubbles.. when you release pressure the spring will extend the inner out to it's final position. The thing to watch here is that the inner is full of oil because if you suck air in as it expands then the lifter will be "spongey".. you'll be able to tell anyway because once the lifter has expanded it should be solid, if you can squeeze it together with your fingers then there's trapped air and you'll have to bleed them again.

here it is completed anyway



the next job is to press the pump into the body, lay it in the hole, and give it a light tap with something soft, like a hammer shaft or a screwdriver handle



and repeat for the other 15 lifters... simple!


I also managed to get some more head porting done, all of the inlet ports are roughed out to their final shape, just ready for smoothing, hopefully I will be sending the head and block for machining when I get paid

Pffft 15!!!!...ai easy!!

Fair play Rob.....I've absolutely no idea what the hell's been going on the last couple pages!

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1st rule of fat club is you don't talk about fat club...

thanks mate, I appreciate it..

there's nothing hard about building engines though, If I can do it anyone can! if you need/want anything explaining in more detail just just give me a shout.

as for the lifters, it was a tedious job but I got them all stripped down in about an hour and the cleaning and reassembly took about 2 hours the following night, most people would have just replaced them but at £15 each I can't justify it!!

Middle of sorting my spare head out now so this has been really good for me. Never thought about stripping the lifters but I certainly will now....

Cheers for the writeup.

Well.... I've had a good, hard think over the last few days and the car is going up for sale..

Basically I'm moving back up to Newcastle from Plymouth so my weekly commute to Portsmouth is going to double in cost and with a new mortgage to pay I don't really want to swallow £180 a week travelling costs.

I'm going to continue building the B234/235 hybrid motor and if the car hasn't gone by the time it's finished then I'll fit it (and obviously adjust the price accordingly, or sell the engine seperately.

the car as it stands is as follows:

2001 93 aero, it was a dealer demo for the first 8 months then the previous owner had it from then until I bought it just over a year ago. It's got full history up to 65k when I bought it and I've serviced and maintained it myself since then and have a folder stuffed with receipts for every penny I've spent on it since.

Engine: B205R motor with 84k miles, standard internals, 3" JT exhaust and heat wrapped downpipe, maptun recirc valve, maptun air filter, big front mount intercooler, 3.5bar FPR, Denso IQ24 plugs,various bits and bobs of silicone hoses.. running Mobil super 3000 fully syntheric oil at the moment, always warmed up and cooled down properly and runs great. Saabnoob map which has been rolling roaded at 279.4bhp & 292 lbs of torque.

Gearbox: standard 5 speed manual, standard clutch that doesnt slip at all, redline MTL gearbox oil

Suspension: bilstein B8 dampers, koni -35mm springs, full set of powerflex bushes (apart from front ARB), new top mounts, PFS rack clamp and brace, custom modified 2 point subframe brace, double rear ARB all fitted less than 10k miles ago - needs one new track rod end, I have a pair in the post and will be fitted ASAP. car was treated to 4 wheel alignment after the suspension was fitted.

Brakes: redstuff pads all round, rear discs about 5k miles old, front disks 15k miles old both barely worn. ATE suberblue race fluid.

Wheels: standard "double Y" 17" alloys with TOYO T1R tyres (5k miles old), a couple of wheels have light kerbing and a little bit of flaking but are by no means wrecked. brand new, unused spacesaver in the boot.

Bodywork: steel grey paintwork, the odd stonechip to the front of the car but very clean and presentable, much better than some cars half it's age. the front bumper does have a little bit missing underneath that is barely noticable and the rear bumper has a small area where it has sagged about 1/2" but again, it's still a very clean, straight car that is immaculate underneath too.

Interior: full black leather aero heated electric interior, no wear to the seats, 3 headrests in the back, wood dash, leather handbrake gaiter and black suede "A" pillar trims. Maptun boost gauge, original saab mats. cassette headunit and CD changer in the boot. everything works, no missing pixels on the SID

I'm sure I must have missed something but anyone who has read my build thread or knows the car knows that it's spot on and has wanted for nothing at all during my ownership. price is negotiable (upwards!) if you want it as it is including the part-built engine and the 19T turbo.

I've got some spares too.. a spare ECU, the original springs and the front damper inserts, brand new goodridge brake lines, a couple of cam covers, spare strut brace etc etc.

anyone who is interested is more than welcome to come and have a look, I can even get the car up on a 4 post ramp so you can have a proper poke around underneath if you like. no test drives without the full asking price in cash in my hand.

also I AM NOT BREAKING THE CAR AT THIS POINT IN TIME please don't ask me to sell bits seperately

it's got 10 months test and 6 months tax, is HPI clear and obviously has no finance etc on it.


Right, the price: £2500 strictly no offers (yes, I'm aware you can get sheds for £750.. but this car has had a lot of money spent on it and is in no way comparable to a 150k mile smoker)

Im not surprised to see this Rob but it is a shame, Worth £2500 all day IMO as its still a sorted car even in its current spec...I would want £4k for mine all day long

Cheers Simon

cheers mate, I drove it again tonight and I'll be really sorry to see it go.. if it doesn't sell then there are other options.. my new house has got a garage so I may end up buying a knacker for getting me to work and back, breaking the saab and putting the engine in a corsa or just moving onto something totally different... I don't know.

either way the engine build is coming on, it's all ready for machining now, really need to get it sent out next week once I've finished the massive written report I've got to do for my welding assesment.

I've found a new car so the price has now been reduced - £2250