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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 4:27 pm 
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Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Car Model: 900T16s, Daihatsu Charade GTti
If the rear doors are the same as the front you can adjust in all directions...

The bolts holding the door onto the hinge (can see the heads through holes in the door) lets you move the whole door in and out in relation to the hinge, (in other words forwards and backwards along the car length) this would eliminate the need to to shim the striker plate.
The bolts holding the hinge onto the bodyshell are the adjustment for how far the doors sit from the car when they're shut, this is handy when sealing up things, (done mine mainly for wind noise, plus I swapped both doors over from a better car) Come to think of it do you get a bit of wind noise from that area?
Anyway once you start adjusting you may need to adjust the striker plate, easy enough to do though

So for instance with those pics it looks as if the door is too far away from the body. To fix this I'd loosen off the bolts holding the hinge to the body, (not much though - heavy!) and move it inwards a bit, the front doors even have a grub screw as a guide I guess, no idea if the rears do, in the end with mine I had to disregard the grub screws as it would be too far out of alignment. Next step would be to adjust the striker plate again inwards to keep it in line with the door itself.


To get rid of the shim on the striker loosen the door to hinge bolts and pull the door a little away from the hinge. All of this I mostly had help to support the door, infact help and a jack when putting them on. Just makes it easier, all trial and error really!

As an extra have also heard of window frames getting bent outwards, think Robert had this if I remember right, apparently it's quite easy to bend when the window is open, this may be a problem too. Think he done it because of wind noise. Have thought it could be on mine to but not had the guts to push!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 4:52 pm 
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Location: Bristol
Car Model: Dawes Clubman
Ta, super useful info :D .

Did I mention that I've got 4 spare doors in better nick stashed in the garage, but in pale blue? Bit of a £30 eBay accident :oops:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:45 am 
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Location: Bristol
Car Model: Dawes Clubman
Just a note to say that E-REC lives, but has had precious little tinkering time in the last month - mostly been moving house. Despite lacking a hatchback, it's proven remarkably practical. I shifted a lot of stuff with it and only really needed a van for furniture.

After lots of little trips around town (and consequently about 20mpg), the car was treated to a proper run yesterday, to pick up some flat-front T16 3-spoke alloys. I've got winter tyres on order, the intention being to tidy up the original steels while they're off the car and get some decent tyres on them. It's currently on a motley selection of rubbish. 225 miles, 27.3 mpg and much turbo-induced grin (I definitely wasn't trying for economy, and enjoyed surprising a few modern diesel drivers along the way) - so the engine must be pretty happy.

With the carpets out (still - no progress on the leak, but I've got a hosepipe now so some testing can happen) it's a noisy thing, and I've become aware of a definite whine from the gearbox. I guess all C900 gearboxes are in a state of terminal decline, right?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:26 pm 
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Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Car Model: 900T16s, Daihatsu Charade GTti
Taking it easy I've got 34mpg + out of mine so it's possible for you to curb enthusiasm and get 30 plus, but who wants to do that?! I'll be on the move soon and have already moved a lot of stuff to my brothers and a hatchback is even more impressive, 15 banana boxes with ease, tables, cd/dvd towers etc, it's earned it's keep in the last few weeks!
Mine whines in low gears but think important thing is no whine in higher gears, mine still changes fine, doesn't jump out of gear including reverse, the oil level is good so I just live with it, reminds me it's a car which traces it's lineage back to the late 60's :)
Need more pics of the car with the wheels when you get them! Think it'll look impressive with the 3-spokes :)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 9:42 pm 
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Car Model: Dawes Clubman
The whine with mine is most noticeable in 1st and 5th. Likewise no nasty behaviour though and the oil level is fine.

There will be photos :-)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:37 pm 
try changing the gearbox oil. cheap to do.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:40 pm 
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Car Model: Dawes Clubman
I thought there was all sorts of 'wisdom' about changing or not changing the oil?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:47 pm 
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Car Model: c900 convertible, XJS
No, not about changing the oil, definitely a good idea, but what type to put in is a can of worms!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 5:54 pm 
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Car Model: '87 T16 & T5'd C900 saloon
Glad this cars getting the attention I couldnt quite give it. Did you sort the vibration out?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 6:07 pm 
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Car Model: Dawes Clubman
StuntmanAd wrote:
Glad this cars getting the attention I couldnt quite give it. Did you sort the vibration out?

Missed your reply somehow Adam - vibration is still present. I've started assembling the parts to rebuild the driveshafts and inner drivers but that's it so far.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 6:27 pm 
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Location: Bristol
Car Model: Dawes Clubman
Right - a general update and some photos. In the last few weeks the car's had a fair bit of use, not least a trip away to Cornwall for Christmas. 420 miles without lifting the bonnet once, pretty pleased with that. I drove down to near St Austell from Bridgwater on Monday 23rd (aka rainmageddon), and I was glad to be on fresh, decent winter tyres - no snow, but they certainly deal with water well. They're also generally much better than the cheap rubbish I had on the front - wheelspin is far less easily provoked on damp roads.

Apart from getting the tyres fitted, before heading off I found time to gunge up the cam cover with Vauxhall green sealant (recommended by a friend), and whilst I think there may still be a slight leak, the smell of hot oil which accompanied most journeys has been notably absent since doing so. See attached picture for how it was before - and that's after fitting a new cam cover gasket.

Since moving house, the car is parked on a more-or-less flat drive, and not a drop of water has come into the rear passenger footwell. At the old place, it was parked facing uphill (to stop the oil leak) on a well-cambered road, and there was enough to go swimming in every time it rained :? . I've had a bit come in along the top of the doors on both sides, but nothing like before. Boot's pretty bad - got some sealant ready to attack that when it's not raining.

I think I'm going to put the carpets back in once I've replaced the heater valve, tried to lubricate the blower motor (squeaky!) and generally finished fiddling about inside the dashboard. I've ordered some closed-cell foam to subsitute for the 'floor rusters', although the driver's side one was bone dry. It'll be really nice to get some sound insulation back in the car.

What else? After losing another dash light, I fitted some very bright green LED bulbs, which are great - properly readable instruments!


Attachments:
File comment: On the way home from Cornwall.
DSCF7453.jpg
DSCF7453.jpg [ 258.07 KiB | Viewed 898 times ]
File comment: With new wheels and after a very quick wash (missed a few bits).
1479163_10100458291758372_1540288538_n.jpg
1479163_10100458291758372_1540288538_n.jpg [ 205.06 KiB | Viewed 898 times ]
File comment: Oil leak - terrible photo, apologies.
IMG_20131217_114524.jpg
IMG_20131217_114524.jpg [ 234 KiB | Viewed 898 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:43 pm 
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Car Model: Dawes Clubman
With the weather becoming a bit more favourable, and most importantly my girlfriend's purchase of a sensible car (meaning we're not relying on the SAAB being usable), I'm finally getting round to a few of the jobs that have been lined up for a while.

Yesterday I took the dashboard apart completely to get at the blower fan, the constant squeaking of which drives me gradually mad. More importantly, prior to that I got the heater matrix and valve out - replacing the leaky valve means I can finally think about getting some trim back in the car. I've gotten used to the 'rally look', but it's not much fun after a while.

The blower motor came apart really easily - I've taken a fair few brushed DC motors apart and it's usually far more of a pain. I've re-greased the bearings and it seems to be running more quietly than before, spun up from a bench supply. Not sure there's much else that can be done - the commutator is visibly worn, so if that's the source of the squeak I won't have achieved much.

I've also got a set of turbo instruments to fit - I've had the cluster out before to fix the lighting, but putting the multi-plugs back on is going to be so much easier with the dash top out of the way. So easy to remove - really nice to be able to see everything that's behind there.

I spent this morning getting the alternator out - the bushings are shot and it was dancing around all over the place. Because my car has a crank pulley-mounted T5 pickup wheel, I had to remove the CPS to get the belts off for replacement. Easier said than done - ended up having to grind off the rusted-up fixing screw and remove the stub with mole grips. Not much fun, but the sensor looks fine. While I'm in there with everything in bits, I might as well do the waterpump too. Anyone know if the ones Euro Car Parts sell are a) decent quality, and b) come with the gasket?

Also well up the to-do list is swapping the old wastegate actuator back on, as this one sticks - giving both under and over boost depending on whether it sticks open or closed. Still on the MBC -I've got the EAGLE files for the T5 'combi adaptor' so there may yet be some progress there. Proper boost control and sorting out the idling (car is *so* much nicer to drive with the IAC disconnected, at least once warm) are the priorities.

The doors are still rusty and leaky, the paint's still many shades of red and it still puts a grin on my face :) At some point I need to figure out how far it goes as a project - perhaps a visit to JamSAAB for expert assessment would be a good call.


Attachments:
fanmotor.jpg
fanmotor.jpg [ 196.33 KiB | Viewed 835 times ]
alternator.jpg
alternator.jpg [ 187.47 KiB | Viewed 835 times ]
dashboard.jpg
dashboard.jpg [ 101.24 KiB | Viewed 835 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:02 pm 
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Car Model: Dawes Clubman
Hmm, seems that it's the wastegate itself that's sticking. Which of course I discovered after the fiddly job of swapping the actuators over - should have just popped the rod off in the first place!

I sense another turbo swap coming on...

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:35 pm 
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Car Model: c900i
Interested in the led dash lights. What did you use, led replacements in the original bulb holders or something else?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:32 pm 
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Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Car Model: 900T16s, Daihatsu Charade GTti
Progress hereabouts!!

Makes fiddling around so much nicer when you don't rely on it eh lol

Thought mine had a squeak in the blower motor until by accident I noticed it was one of vanes on the vents ever so slightly moving with the airflow, moving them slightly fixes it.
Water pump, don't really think any make makes much of a difference, every other thread I've looked on when researching it myself says the same. Would've thought the gasket would come with it, be surprised if not. Mine was off Fleabay, pretty much unheard of make and it came with a gasket. Got a bearing noise now and hoping it's the alternator but need to check, typical, at least for me both of them are easy to change, the Charade GTti I have has got a grumbling water pump and to change it means taking cam cover off, engine mount off, cam belt cover off just to get at the pump so we're lucky here lol


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:12 pm 
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Location: Glos
Car Model: '91 T5'd 900S Aero, '92 Panda
nfo wrote:
I spent this morning getting the alternator out - the bushings are shot and it was dancing around all over the place. Because my car has a crank pulley-mounted T5 pickup wheel, I had to remove the CPS to get the belts off for replacement. Easier said than done - ended up having to grind off the rusted-up fixing screw and remove the stub with mole grips. Not much fun, but the sensor looks fine. While I'm in there with everything in bits, I might as well do the waterpump too. Anyone know if the ones Euro Car Parts sell are a) decent quality, and b) come with the gasket?


I've seen this car (on the 'net) a number of times in various places - it's awesome! Glad it's still going.

I bought the Euro Car Parts one - I think it's 'KWP' or something? Looks decent, fits properly and did come with a gasket :D

Just fitted a KWP one to the Panda too, seems alright...

I bunged stainless bolts in when I fitted mine - the original bolts were rusty as.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 8:24 am 
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Location: Bristol
Car Model: Dawes Clubman
nicebiscuit wrote:
Interested in the led dash lights. What did you use, led replacements in the original bulb holders or something else?

I bought '2 x 6 LED T10 501 W5W Sidelight Bulbs - Various Colours Available - Green' from 'partsulike_co_uk' (seriously...) on eBay. Couple of quid.

I did have to apply some electrical tape to them, as a proper W5W/W3W has contacts on opposing sides, whereas these have a wire bent all the way around, which would cause a short without the tape. They are polarised, so it's either 50:50 chance of getting them in the right way, or a bit of multi-metering to figure out which way is up.

There may well be better bulbs available in that respect - I can't fault these for brightness though - just right. Much better than the dim W3Ws, and infinitely better than when I first picked up the car and had to drive back to Bristol with the interior light on to see the speedo because the dash PCB was burnt out!

Thooms wrote:
I've seen this car (on the 'net) a number of times in various places - it's awesome! Glad it's still going.

:D - that's the sort of thing I need to hear! At the moment I'm feeling quite keen, but at other times (mostly when it's been full of water) I've been pretty fed up with it! Helps to know I'm not the only nutcase who thinks it's at all worthwhile...

Thooms wrote:
I bought the Euro Car Parts one - I think it's 'KWP' or something? Looks decent, fits properly and did come with a gasket :D

Sounds alright then - I thought they'd be much of a muchness. Cheers.

Toe wrote:
Thought mine had a squeak in the blower motor until by accident I noticed it was one of vanes on the vents ever so slightly moving with the airflow, moving them slightly fixes it.

I'm pretty certain it's the blower - the frequency of the squeak changes with the fan speed setting. I'll definitely be testing it before putting the dash back together though - not that removal is too much of a pain.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:26 pm 
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As I was putting the bins out this evening, a chap who was walking past stopped and shook my hand for keeping an old Saab alive :D

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 5:03 pm 
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Car Model: '87 T16 & T5'd C900 saloon
I love that last post! :D


Keep up the good work Nial

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:32 pm 
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StuntmanAd wrote:
I love that last post! :D

:)

Another afternoon spent taking EREC to bits. Decided it was time to drain the coolant and have a go at flushing through with clean water. Not sure I've figured out the correct technique for that - mostly I managed to spray water everywhere from the open heater hoses. Eventally got a moderate amount of water going through from header tank to radiator drain plug, but just under gravity. Definitely cleared a fair bit of crud out either way.

Once that was done I took the water pump off - It's not in a terrible state but as I've got everything apart anyway, might as well change it. Got one from ECP, and it came with a gasket, all for less than 20 quid. I've also got another S/H turbo on the way so once again all the intake and intercooler pipework came out. The first turbo swap took me two and a half weekends, this time it was out in about half an hour. Experience and non-seized bolts make a huge difference!

With the turbo out, it seemed like a good time to take the radiator out and flush that out too - cue even more crud coming out. Having done it in all directions (inlet to outlet, inlet to drain plug, etc.) I think it's pretty clear now. Of course, now that's all out I'm thinking about getting on with fitting a decent intercooler now - taking inspiration from -=FUBES=- install in 'willard' (viewtopic.php?f=35&t=118925&start=20).

The main thing stopping me is not having figured out how best to mount the T5 IAT sensor - currently on a chopped-up bit of 9k inlet pipe. Any good suggestions?


Attachments:
File comment: From the other side.
Sat_26_progress_2.jpg
Sat_26_progress_2.jpg [ 328.75 KiB | Viewed 721 times ]
File comment: Turbo and radiator out.
Sat_26_progress.jpg
Sat_26_progress.jpg [ 215.75 KiB | Viewed 721 times ]
File comment: Water pump out.
waterpumpout.jpg
waterpumpout.jpg [ 273.44 KiB | Viewed 721 times ]

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