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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 1:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:18 am
Posts: 28
Car Models: Saab 96
DeeDub8 wrote:
Where abouts are you? I had assumed the UK but after your previous post I was confused. Looking back through your pictures I can now see your Yamaha is a left-hand drive. :lol: :lol: No, I spotted the steering wheel. I now understand why I was envious of your garage and driveway.

The engine is good news. Your options are increasing.

Hehe.. I`m located in Lillehammer, Norway.
Yes, things are looking promising now. The engine is partly dismantled, but it came with almost all of the parts. The balance shaft is missing, but I think I can use one of the two I already have. What is a good source for balance shaft and camshaft bearings? I also need a gasket kit, including the timing cover and crankshaft seals. I don`t know if it is adviceable to hone and replace the piston rings? i feel almost no ridge at the top of the cylinders.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 7:10 pm 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Removed the rest of the internals of the "new" engine yesterday. There was some more rust in the cylinders than I hoped for. Only a thin layer on the surface, and almost all could be removed with 1200 grit sandpaper and oil. Took maybe two hours on all 4 cylinders. A bit more dull grey where I polished with the sandpaper, but I can not feel the transition from unpolished/polished with my fingernail. Probably ok? I`ll try to measure the piston/cylinder clearance tomorrow. I think I`ll bring the engine to an engine shop and have an expert take a look. Should probably be honed. If I`m lucky I`ll avoid boring/new pistons.

I think the heads are ok. Some minor spots on the valve seats, but I think it can be polished away. There are rubber seals on the valves, where I suspected plastic on the older engine, as mentioned. All rubberseals were ok, don`t know if these should be replaced anyway?

Crankshaft/pistons/camshaft looks ok, but I`m not so sure about the crankshaft bearings. I should check the clearance.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 26, 2014 9:41 am
Posts: 4329
Location: Royal Tunbridge Wells
Car Models: '03 9-5 2.3 Vector Auto Estate Noob Stg 1
I would replace the valve stem seals while it is apart, they are likely to have hardened with age and leak oil into the bore when it is rebuilt. Much easier to do now.

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Alan

'03 9-5 2.3t Vector Estate Auto Noob Stg 1
'01 9-3 2.0t SE Vert Auto
'81 Triumph TR7 DHC


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 5:24 pm
Posts: 7352
Location: Wigan, Lancashire
Car Models: 99L, 9000cse, Panda, Octavia estate and far too many 9-5s.
TWSaab wrote:
I would replace the valve stem seals while it is apart, they are likely to have hardened with age and leak oil into the bore when it is rebuilt. Much easier to do now.

+1 Indeed I'd look into replacing all the seals while the engine is in bits as it'd be a pain in the butt to have to pull the engine apart again later.

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Underskatta aldrig en gammal man med en gammal SAAB


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 9:29 pm 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Yes, will do. Any opinion on the condition of the cylinders? Ofcourse difficult to judge from the image, but i was in doubt if using sandpaper was ok?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 11:52 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 408
Location: Kent
Your engine shop should measure the bores to see if it is within limits for the current size piston/ring combination. If OK it might just need a light honing which will give a good crosshatch rather than remove much metal. This crosshatch will enable new rings, same size, to bed in. They should have a ridge ring reamer to get rid of the lip, assuming it doesn't need a rebore. Easy to do and worthwhile.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 2:23 pm 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Thanks! I’ll give the shop a call tomorrow. I don’t feel like honing myself. Tried with a flexhone on the other engines, but I didn’t get the wanted crosshatch pattern. Maybe to high speed.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:06 am 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Engine shop said that there is some wear in the cylinders. Clearance varied between about 0,1-0,002mm. Maybe a little piston noise and some oil consumption, but I think it will be ok for light usage during the summer. Engine shop will do some light honing. Now I must start to collect parts :) Pistong rings, main bearings, connecting rod bearings, seal kit, and so on. Also need clutch and thrust bearing, and brake parts.

Removed the rear fenders and tank. A few rust holes, but nothing serious. A hole near the left rear upper shock absorber mount, but it is accessible. Tank looks good on the outside. I don`t think it`s rust that I feel inside, but maybe something that developes over time from the gas? The gas level transmitter(?) looked bad, but most of the stuff that looked like rust could easily be removed with a wirebrush. Some say that you can clean the tank by have some nuts/small stones, or similar, and maybe some diesel in the tank, and shake for a while.. Have not tried it myself, but the tank has to be cleaned. There still is a litre or two of gas in it.

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Last edited by Gunnar on Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:27 am 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Pulled the brake drums. Not sure if the wear limit is reached, my caliper are not wide enough. Note the improvised puller :mrgreen: There is some rust on the brake line, not sure if they can be used. Should probbly replace anyway. The brake cylinders seems stuck, but they are cheap to replace, I think. Will try to take apart.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:07 pm
Posts: 856
Location: Kent
Car Models: Bullnose
Hi Gunnar...Regarding your fuel tank...If rust particles and sludge are your problem then putting stones in the tank will only partially solve your problem. Quite often inside these old tanks fine rust particles form inside a chamber where the fuel pick-up line (draw-off pipe) terminates. There is a bent-over flap on this chamber and the only way to open the flap to remove the rust sludge is to cut a hole in the tank. The whole should be large enough to clean out both chambers inside the tank.
The fuel draw off pipe is only 2-3mm from the bottom of the tank so it doesn't take much rust/sludge build up to enter the pipe and cut-off the fuel flow.

[url=https://postimages.org/]Image

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[url=https://postimages.org/]Image

I hope the pictures are a help to you.


Last edited by llovegrace on Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:02 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 7:59 am 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Thanks :D Very helpful pictures. A little drastic to cut the hole, but from the pictures probably the only way to clean it thoroughly. With a finger it feels like rough sandpaper inside. I`ll try to inspect a little better. Is the wall in the tank welded to the top plate?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 8:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:07 pm
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Location: Kent
Car Models: Bullnose
Yes but only in a few places and with a bit of a wiggle from side to side, it will break off the welds.
The cross-plate is a baffle to restrict to surge of fuel from one side of the tank to the other thus playing havock with the fuel gauge float.

The large hole was to enable a grit blast gun to get into the chamber. I was supprised how much rust had formed onto the tank inside walls...and that was after the previous owner of the car had already cleaned all the smelly sludge out. I believe that using stones or metal nuts to shake the mess out also caused rust particles to continue to break off into the fresh petrol, entered the small draw-off chamber thus causing a fuel blockage.

I should mention that I have a Bullnose 96 but I think that the V4 used the same design tank...best put a scope down the fuel sender hole and check.
May I suggest that if you are going to angle grind the tank then remove it from the car and first empty the fuel totaly and remove sender unit - leave the tank to breathe for about 20mins, fix a vaccume hoover (SET TO BLOW) and attach it to the filler pipe with the hoover motor well away from the tank. Turn the tank upside down and tilted down towards the tank fuel sender end. Leave the hoover blowing at all times (start angle cutting after another 20 mins again with the hoover blowing). After you have completed the clean-out of sludge, rust then I had a new plate for the top made, welded it to the tank and air tested the tank. This was done by blocking up the fuel draw-off pipe on the side of the tank and the air relief/vent pipe on the top of the tank and also refit the fuel sender. With the vaccume hoover set to blow, paint a soapy water solution around all of the seams of the tank and of course your new weld.

Best of luck and if you intend to grind then please be careful for as you know petrol tanks can be dangerous. The reason for a vaccume hoover set to blow is to lower the upper/lower explosion limit of fuel vapour to a safe limit (must stress that I think 20mins then cut whilst blowing is about right.

Sorry for the long winded write-up but if you intend to go this route then safety first (not trying to teach you how to suck eggs) :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 8:31 pm 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Thanks! I`ll be careful. I didn`t have time to inspect it today, maybe tomorrow.

I had a motorcycle tank repaired once. The welder flushed it with water for a long time before any attempt to weld. Did you remove your pictures? I had a good look, so I think I`m ok.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:07 pm
Posts: 856
Location: Kent
Car Models: Bullnose
Hi Gunnar...No, I didn't remove them..I hope the hosting site is not time limited...I will check and try to reinstate them.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 10:13 pm 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Pictures are back :-)
There seems to be very little sludge at the bottom of the tank. Used a wooden stick to scrape, and nothing on the stick. I read many different "efficient" ways to clean a tank, eg. vinegar, dish washer detergent, acetone, kerosene and so on. Many have had success with vinegar, I think I give it a shot. Don`t know how much they used, or wether they filled the tank completely with a suitable mix of water and vinegar or not.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 10:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 408
Location: Kent
White vinegar. Buy from a commercial source not the supermarket. Use neat and keep an eye on the progress. The process is quite slow so be patient.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 2:19 pm 
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Car Models: Saab 96
Will try, but I`ve not seen it anywhere else than in the supermarket? One of the the US-guys that did this paid $6 for two gallons. I guess the price is a bit higher here..


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 9:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:18 am
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Car Models: Saab 96
Found white 35% vinegar. Mixed 1 litre with about 3 litres of hot water. Had some effect after 24 hours, but not enough. FIlled the tank with hot water and dishwasher detergent yesterday . Will have a look later today.

Where do you buy parts? I find brake parts, and some other parts from regular net shops that I often use for my newer car(s). But many shops seems to have the parts in their inventory, but almost everything is out of stock? It seems that many have the same list/catalouge.

What I need in not to distant future is main bearings, connecting rod bearings, piston rings, balance shaft bearings, camshaft bearings, timing cover and crankshaft gasket, clutch + thrust bearing.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 10:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 26, 2014 9:41 am
Posts: 4329
Location: Royal Tunbridge Wells
Car Models: '03 9-5 2.3 Vector Auto Estate Noob Stg 1
Saabits is very good for getting rare and odd parts, worth a try. He also sometimes knows where to go if he does not have them. . Although my Saab cars are neither I find Bill gets all sorts of odd trim and seals etc within a few days (don't forget the discount code, I often do!). Other parts, where I can use non OE reasonably, and TR7 parts I get from ebay or the relevant specialists.

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Alan

'03 9-5 2.3t Vector Estate Auto Noob Stg 1
'01 9-3 2.0t SE Vert Auto
'81 Triumph TR7 DHC


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 408
Location: Kent
Found white 35% vinegar. Mixed 1 litre with about 3 litres of hot water.

This would make it very weak. Use neat if you can. Bigger supermarkets often have it cheap as a budget own brand at a fraction of the price of named stuff. Les than £1/litre here. Search or ask. Don't use the brown stuff. A cooking supplies cash and carry for Chinese, Indian and other restaurants could get you a 10 litre container for a low price, if you have access to one. Maybe ask at your local take away?


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