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 Post subject: MY 97 9000 Aero rescue
PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2019 7:29 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
[url]Image[url]v[/url][/url]
Sorry guys, posted in error whilst playing around with photo uploads. I may be back when I get to grips with it


Last edited by razani67 on Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: MY 9000 Aero rescue
PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:19 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
Think I have this uploading sorted but it's a bit tiresome
I have vaguely been keeping a lookout on the Aero market. I have a 97 black Aero for "best" so don't really need another but the manuals are becoming rare. This one popped up on ebay end July and I won the auction at £1085. 145k mls, manual, MOT until end April 2020, midnight blue and dove grey interior (?). I did go and have a look at so did not buy blind. Rusty front wings, rusty rear wheelarches, rusty o/s/r door but windscreen seemed ok.Leather interior in good order. Did check the mot history and it failed recently on corrosion near the rear suspension but passed on retest. Dirty and a bit tatty but I thought it worth a punt as a rolling restoration. Bought it and drove it 120mls back home. Drove fine but only base boost.
I had a number of options;
Sell it on/just run it at minimal cost as it had a years mot (not much point)/ break it for spares/restore it.
For the moment I have opted for the latter and it is now sorned and in my garage. Other than my time and consumeables not spent anything so option to break still open. I wont lose anything. For the moment the rear suspension is totally dismantled and the fuel tank/filler out to give me a clear view of the underside. Work has started, at least 12 months and still not 100% sure but I am retired so have the time to play.
A few photos that the seller posted will give some idea
[url]v[/url][url]Image[url]v[url]Image[url]Image[url]v[/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][url]Image[/url]Image[url]Image[/url]vImage[img]https:
Will put up further posts as I make progress but in no great rush.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 12:32 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
[img][img]https://i.imgur.com/ZNLWhBzl.jpg[/img][img][img]https://i.imgur.com/EKncvVVl.jpg[/img][img][img]https://i.imgur.com/Rom6zQNl.jpg[/img][img][img]https://i.imgur.com/46FWjnql.jpg[/img][/img][/img][/img][/img][url]Image[/url]A few photos of the rear underside before starting. Clearly some repair has been done in the o/s rear wheel arch behind the damper and the lower inner rear boot panel. Some corrosion near the n's torsion bar.[img][img]https://i.imgur.com/oZVoKfwl.jpg[/img][/img]. Having trouble uploading again. Will be back later.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 1:54 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
The missing photos[img][img]https://i.imgur.com/Rom6zQNl.jpg[/img]ImageImageImageImageImageImage[/img]
The rear wheel arches have not gone lacy and still retain their integrity. The rear apron behind the bumper is totally rust free. I have removed the Aero sill covers and the sills have no rust. I have removed the windscreen trim and ,against my expectations, very little rust is visible. I am sure there will be some on the lip when I remove the screen but it looks ok at the moment. My real concern is the underfloor boot area, photos to follow. l


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 3:25 pm 
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UKS Addict

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 5445
Location: suffolk
Car Model: 1993 9000 2.0 cse
i put some alloys in a rotten 9000 and the floor broke away

its behind the rear wheels on the inside skin that rots hidden away for years
they drain from the hatch lock area into the boot wheel well :loco:
so carefull when you shove your hand down the hole inside the boot either side
nearsides go worse no drain holes so great idea that
and theres only a drain hole on the right side of the wheel well
if you parked at an angle and it tipped down with rain water goes into the hidden hole and rots it

_________________
never underestimate the predictability of stupidity


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
scanditurbo wrote:
so carefull when you shove your hand down the hole inside the boot either side

The boot floor is fine inside. The rusted out panels are when you put your hand down either side of the spare wheel well. You can see in the photos where someone has welded a patch.
Spent many hours under the car with the minigrinder, an awful job, and exposed some of the rust. The o/s wheel arch is the worst with a patch to be let in forward of the wheel and to the rear behind the mudflap. Don't know what was used to bodge behind the damper but it has all gone now and I have a hole. The view inside the boot shows it. A small hole has appeared just to the rear of the n/s torsion bar mount. I used an air needle gun here so it's a bit vicious and punched a hole. The n/s wheelarch has some rust but has only gone into one hole down at the forward end. The o/s one is worse. No rust at all for 3/4 round then rusted out for the last qtr. The bottoms of the wings, behind the bumper sides, have some rust but seem sound.
I have been surpised by the way the rust develops. Seemingly solid and unmarked underseal reveals rust when chipped away. This is particulary noticeable on corners that have a thick bead of sealant applied by Saab. The sealant looks fine but chisel it away and.....
The photos give some idea. [img][img]https://i.imgur.com/bkCZOSHl.jpg[/img]ImageImageImageImageImageImage[/img]
You can see it is not surface rust, It is in pits and not practical to grind out the pits which would be best practice. On that basis the rear subframe would need replacing. I propose to carry on wire wheel/grinding the rust away then, unless welding is required. using BH stuff to neutralise the residual rust before overpainting. The welding required is obvious.
The plan had been to have the welding done followed by a complete respray. Obviously more than the car is worth but it is not an investment. I plan to keep it for many years. If I do it has to be done properly, and therefore not a cheap job. Still not sure whether it is a good base to go from, the jury is still out, but it is not in too bad shape and it always seems to be the rear that rusts even when superficially it looks sound. At least I will know the history and know it has been done properly.
What do you folks think?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2019 2:46 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
Just spent a little more time cleaninig up some of the patches eith a mini belt grinder. I know the ideal is to grind back to an even polish bare metal, and failing that cut it out, but there are too many sites of various sizes i will not do that. The alternative is to scrap it. I am putting up photos of a few sites and would value your opinion. The first photo shows a site that is normally hidden behind the petrol tank.The metal appears solid but if I really ground out to the bottom of the pits I suspect there would not be much left. 2nd photo is the inside face of the rear subframe to the rear of the swing arm bearing. Again most of the rust removed but am left with pits. Last photo is an area of the n/s wheelarch. Again not gone through but residual pits. Clearly where the metal has gone in holes it is a welding job, but what about sites like above. Will treating with BH
be ok. Bearing in mind I plan to go for a full pro respray am i throwing good money after bad unless I cut everything out? I which case I know what to do.[img][img]https://i.imgur.com/h2WeWq3m.jpg[/img][/img][img][img]https://i.imgur.com/h2WeWq3m.jpg[/img]ImageImage[/img]

Am i fussing about nothing???


Last edited by razani67 on Sat Oct 12, 2019 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2019 2:51 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
[url]Image[/url]First pic didn't post. Here it is;[img][img]https://i.imgur.com/h2WeWq3l.jpg[/img][/img]


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 8:34 am 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Fri Jun 07, 2013 7:10 pm
Posts: 969
Car Model: 9000 900 99
I don't think you're fussing about nothing but I understand your anxiety.
I don't think its feasible to chop out every area of metal that has had some surface rust, even if you can't get rid of all the pits; if you try you'll sand your whole car away!
If, however, the metal is rusty right through then it needs to be cut out and a fresh piece welding in.

That's where Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 comes in. In the instructions it makes clear that you should work the product into the areas of pitted rust, so they understand your predicament. Their products are excellent, the best available; trust them.
Sand as much as is practically possible, treat with Hydrate 80 (twice), then Electrox primer then their Epoxy topcoat. Then you can paint or use their Dynax UB (UnderBody) wax to finish.

What would help you is removing those two rigid rear brake lines which are clearly in the way as they travel around the top of the (now removed) fuel tank. As I'm sure you know they come in one piece from under the front bulkhead. Your access will be so much better with them removed.
One of mine was an advisory at the last MOT earlier this year so I decided to change them both and replace with cunifer pipe that I bent into shape in situ. I would recommend you do the same.
To keep the dust, etc. out of the lines you can buy brass male and female brake line plugs from Car Builder Solutions, which are really neat.

I will be doing exactly this job to my Aero in the next few weeks as I spotted a lot of what you see when I was changing my brake lines a few months ago. Nelliem had somebody do his this year, too.

Keep going, its worth doing. 9000 Aeros are amazing.


Last edited by Sven Rodkarl on Sun Oct 13, 2019 8:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 10:49 am 
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UKS Addict

Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 2314
Car Model: 9000 Aero
On mine, anywhere I felt the metal was thin enough to warrant was cut out and welded , anything else was ground down, treated, epoxy primered and then undersealed. Yours looks better than mine for structural stuff, mine had a lot more cut out but it also looks quite a bit worse for superficial bits.
I would sand back some more on the inner arch, the section that forms the outer part of the rear chassis leg, I'd be quite surprised if that is all of it, they seem to rot from the inside out along that seam.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 11:19 am 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
Sven Rodkarl wrote:
What would help you is removing those two rigid rear brake lines which are clearly in the way as they travel around the top of the (now removed) fuel tank.

I plan to replace those lines. I had to cut them anyway at the caliper end as the ferrules were rusted into the flex pipe. I already have pipe/fittings from when I did the job on my black Aero
Sven Rodkarl wrote:
Keep going, its worth doing. 9000 Aeros are amazing.

Couldn't agree more Sven. You're preaching to the converted. No way will this finish as a commercially viable restoration as I am a bit ocd about doing it right. Plan is near as showroom as I can get it, and stg 3. A bespoke exhaust system from Albert 666 will be more than the car!!!
Nelliem wrote:
I would sand back some more on the inner arch, the section that forms the outer part of the rear chassis leg, I'd be quite surprised if that is all of it, they seem to rot from the inside out along that seam.

Precisely what I have found Mark. I have looked at the photos you posted up and mine is the same. It has rusted into the seam and started to delaminate. A section needs to be cut out extending round to the rear of the wheelarch. I press on. My bodyshop man is going to pop round sometime and I will take it from there.
I will pop over to Tilford sometime and we can have a chat over a coffee. You have been there and got the T-shirt
I take it when you say " grind back and treat" you don't mean grind out the pits. Sven is right, you would finish up with virtually nothing left in some areas.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 2314
Car Model: 9000 Aero
No, just take the worst off the top and then treat/convert it. I don't think there is anything else you can do other than chop it all out which is just too much.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 10:27 am 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
Another area of rot. This is what I found when I removed the fuel filler neck.
[url]Image[/url]Image
No visible signs from the car exterior and just a bit of staining in the arch. Leads me to believe that most 9000s have this problem without the owner knowing. It is difficult to get at but I think it is ok apart from a small section of the lip. That will need welding to maintain the integrity of the seal around the neck.
Nelliem did warn me to look out for this, and sure enough....


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 1:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 2314
Car Model: 9000 Aero
One of the best I've seen, some have very little left there at all.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2019 3:20 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
I have removed the boot underfloor strengthener plate and middle box heatshield ( see my post in Workshop ) so now have a totally uninterrupted floor to work on. I am starting to think more on the suspension items. Some of them seem to be galvanised;
2 X spring pans
Boot floor strengthener
Rear suspension cross brace
Fuel filter holder.
In that case I would like to restore them with hot dip galvanising. Can someone confirm the oem finish


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:50 am 
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Full Pressure Turbo
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 3:05 pm
Posts: 785
Location: Crewe, Cheshire
Car Model: 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero Estate
Hi Razani67

I was not aware of this thread until my 'recommissioning' thread got moved here (I'm not sure why really, I imagined the 'Your Cars' section is for showcasing your car, not restoring it).

Anyway, looks like I will be going down a similar route to yourself here, hoping not to find too much rust as it has been off UK roads for more than 10 years now but who knows what I'll find.

Good work so far, I am still struggling with the repair of the windscreen surround on mine, I hope yours is better as it is a pig to repair in that area for various reasons. I think you are ultimately going to go much further with yours than I am, I don't believe I will be hot dip galvanising anything but I will be watching your progress with interest as it will be a guide for where to look on mine.

Keep up the good work, I am also retired (more or less) so I am also lucky enough to be able to devote lots of time (and as little money as possible) to the car.

Cheers

_________________
'02' 9-5 Aero wagon
'98' 9-5 SE 2.3LPT
'98' 9000 CSE 2.0LPT
'01' 9-5 2.0L LPT
'97' Merc SL500 (oops)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 22, 2019 2:29 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 1295
Spoke to a galavaniser. Price for a total 10 items, total weight 6.1 kg, is £65 incl.vat. Any additional items will be £10 ea- front subframe !!!! For some reason they wanted weight, not area. They dont do shotblasting so that will be a separate a/c but cannot be much just for blasting and nothing else and I can roll it in with some other work at the blaster/powder coater. The galvaniser is not bothered about rust but the surface has to be clean. I was surprised at how cheap it was. Will probably have it done .


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 22, 2019 4:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 4:12 pm
Posts: 8679
Location: Portsmouth
Car Model: 96 V4 & 9-3 Turbo-X
Galvanising is always priced by weight.

It's something to do with the process, but the thickness of the zinc layer is determined by the thickness of the material being galvanised, so they price by weight.

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'75 96 V4 Anniversary Restoration Project
'09 9-3 Turbo-X Wagon No. 38
B204 Haynes Roadster Project


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