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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:43 pm
Posts: 19
The chubby alternator decided to fail while I was out earlier! Made me wish I had the mechanical power steering pumps fitted to the petrol models as I lost the power steering due to low battery! grr.

Anyway its home now, and I've had a quick peek and it looks like its going to be fun!

I'm assuming its removed from the lower side of the engine (no way its coming out the top!) and that the driveshaft needs to be removed in order to facilitate its removal? I only had a quick look but the chassis leg and driveshaft look like the alternator wont fit through them.

Can anyone confirm before I go ahead and change it that I'm correct with my asumption please? I'd hate to waste hours trying something that doesnt work! lol.

Also, is the fan belt tensioner removed by just releasing the tension on the tensioner using a bar, or do I need to undo the tensioner, then move it out the way? Any advice in regards to removing this would be welcome as it all makes life easier when I come to do it.

BTW, I have used search, but didnt field any real results that are useful unfortunately.

Thanks in advance guys & girls. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:37 pm 
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Thank you for your help Robert, its much appreciated. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 5:24 pm
Posts: 2135
Location: Caerphilly
Car Model: Saabs
How old is your car? has it been serviced by a main dealer?

This is a common fault. Mine went on my 2006 1.9tid 150 SW last month and Saab coughed up for most of the cost, ended up costing me £150 ontop of an intermediate service. This was a much better option than installing a recon unit from one of the usual Saab parts suppliers.

Be worth picking up the phone to a main dealer to see what they can do for you.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:43 pm
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Redders wrote:
How old is your car? has it been serviced by a main dealer?

This is a common fault. Mine went on my 2006 1.9tid 150 SW last month and Saab coughed up for most of the cost, ended up costing me £150 ontop of an intermediate service. This was a much better option than installing a recon unit from one of the usual Saab parts suppliers.

Be worth picking up the phone to a main dealer to see what they can do for you.


Its a 2005 model, with 69,802 miles on the clock and full Saab service history. The original warranty expired around 2years ago now, so I doubt they'll be interested; I can try though. lol.

I've found an exchange unit for £158.99 at my local autoparts place, with 12 months warranty. Vauxhall (I have trade club) wanted approx £300 ish for the same item with the same warranty. LOL. I'll get the battery from Vauxhall instead, as mines now had it as I think its not been charging for a little while now, and for some reason not come up with a fault on the dash. lol.

So I'm looking at spending £200 for a new alternator, and new battery which I can do both of myself. Not bad really all said and done. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 6:35 pm
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HiYa Folks

I'm in Saaborama land too at the moment, batteries, bulbs, allsorts of failures on the SiD until today, when then real culprit was flushed out, the alternator has failed today - put a multimeter on it and voltage dropped through 12v well into the 11's - lucky i checked here though as i didn't realise the power steering was electro too!!

My questions are the same, can you guys help me with any guides to change it etc? How much should I expect to pay to get it changed? where can i get one from?

I can only assume the Regulator has gone, not surprising really with all that heat back there.

I have tomorrow to do it.... I have to drive 250 miles tomorrow night to fly out of Manchester on Thursday! - your help is appreciated

Kind Regards

Boff


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:39 am
Posts: 41
The wifes Saab 9-3 1.9 TiD alternator looks to have packed up today. She got a warning message and reported a burning smell before getting the car home. I have checked the battery voltage with the car running and its 11.4v, and when off it reads 11.8v, so looks like no alternator output at all. I seems I can get a new alternator for about £165 but its not so obvious where it is on the engine and how I get to change it ? :shock: The last alternator I changed was on my MKIII Cortina 30yrs ago and was a 10 minute job. I fear the Saab 9-3 is bit more complicated ! :cry: Can anyone give me a brief a replacement procedure :) before I start ripping lots clutter out of the engine bay to find it ?

Regards
Neil


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 10:28 am
Posts: 44
Location: Cambridgeshire
Car Model: 95 ng
My understanding is that you can get access to all the gubbins around the belt etc via the wheel arch. Remove the wheel and the wheel arch liner and it should give you much more room and possibly a route out for the alternator. Never tried it myself so i'm not 100% certain.

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Huddy

'60 9-5 NG, 2.0Ttid 190, AWD Vector SE
'57 9-3, 1.9TiD 150, Vector Sport, Sportwagon


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 11:04 am 
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Re: 2006 Saab 9-3 TiD 150

How do I get the tension off the belt so I can safley unbolt the alternator ?

Regards
Neil


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:56 pm 
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I thought I would log my method of getting the alternator off the wifes 2006 Saab 1.9 TiD 150 for anyone else wanting to change thier Cabury Alternator (they melt easy !!).

1. Jackup Front righthand side and remove wheel and wheel arch linear, as suggested above.

2. Unwire the two connections to the back of the alternator, 8mm and 12mm sockets. These are tricky to reach, and try not loose your socket off the end of the extension bar when working it in and out through the maize of pipes and wires like I did. Othersize you have to strip the plastic sump panel off below to retrive your tools.

3. Get a short metal rod, approx 5-6mm dia and 50mm long. I cut the top of an old 5mm wood screw .

4. Working from underneeth through the wheel arch with a hefty large screw driver lever back the spring loaded belt tensioner. You have to get it back far enough so you can insert your metal rod through the holes in the tensioner when you get them lined up.

5. Once the adjuster is held back by your rod you can get the belt off the pulleys.

6. Backup up top you need to get the wiring loom loose above the alternator so you can make space to get the alternator up and out. I disconnected the square looking plug/socket that seems to connect to the PAS gubins. I prised out some of the cable tie mounts and removed the backet holding one half of the square plug (use 10mm spanner on the two small bolts).

7. You need an E14 socket to fit the two main alternator bolts, st. davids star shaped. A trip to halfords if you hav'nt got one !

8. Remove the bottom E14 bolt from the alternator.

9. Loosen the top two E14 bolts on the alternator suspension link and remove the lower of the two. The alternator will now be free and will drop and wedge itself unless you catch it. I attached a tie wire to the large stud on the back of the alternator to help me hold the weight of it.

10. To get the saab to give birth to the dead alternator it needs to be allowed to drop down a bit and turn it so the pulley is pointing down. Then start to pull it out vertically up, black plastic cap end first. Whilst doing this you also have to carefully push all the wire loom bits out of the way towards the engine. In the absense of large pair of forecepts you might find a few swear words help relieve the tensions whilst your trying this manouver.

Reassembly of the new part should be the reverse of the procedure. (Although I have not done this yet, going to get new alternator from main dealer tomorrow, £191 + VAT but managed to blag a 10% discount).

Neil


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 10:28 am
Posts: 44
Location: Cambridgeshire
Car Model: 95 ng
Glad to hear your winning the fight and the wheel arch trick worked. Thanks for the method, i've added it to my folder of useful saab info.

_________________
Huddy

'60 9-5 NG, 2.0Ttid 190, AWD Vector SE
'57 9-3, 1.9TiD 150, Vector Sport, Sportwagon


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2009 4:47 pm
Posts: 1
Thanks guys this is thread is most useful and raises my spirits as I was beginning to think I would never be able to get the alternator out.

I have a similar situation to the one decribed by Neil however I am finding that the alternator bolts are E18 or E20. I am still struggling with the belt tensioner. I have the WIS software but just can not see how a large bar on the tensioner pulley nut (as shown) moves the tensioning arm in the right direction. Any thoughts would be welcome.

Kind regards

Paul


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:56 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Peterborough
Followed the advice here to change the alternator with one addition that gives much more room to get the alternator out. I removed the fuel filter (one electrical connection at the top and one at the bottom, squeezed the cable tie clips from the filter holder and then removed the 3 nuts that hold the filter hoder to the scuttle. Access to these nuts is by removing the plastic plug that secures the plastic trim surrounding the windscreen wipers and carefully levering up the edge of the plastic. With a ratchet spanner (10mm) it is easy to reach the nuts.

The alternator bolts on my 04 1.9 TiD 150 were E18 star heads which resulted in a trip to the local tool shop (note Halfords do not sell single star sockets bigger than E16).

The tensioner pulley bolt is 15 mm and with a spanner on this bolt from the wheelarch, move the spanner towards the rear of the car (ie clockwise) and then slip a 5 mm drill bit into the locating holes.

The complete job, including going into town for the E18 star socket, took 2 hours.

Hope this helps.

_________________
--------------------
2004 9-3 Linear Sport 1.9 TiD 150


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:38 pm
Posts: 3
hi, new to the forum so hello to everyone.....alternator,looks like it's my turn next. Thanks to info on here it seems possible to have a crack at it. Couple of questions:
do the electrical connections have to have the nuts totally removed or just loosened off to get the cables off?
the 3 star type bolts, are 2 screwed into the alternator body and the very top one just into the fixing bracket?
are all alternators the same for the 9-3 Tid 150 2004 onwards or are there several variations?

thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:56 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Peterborough
The electrical connections on the fuel filter have a small clip that needs to be compressed to remove, the larger black plug above the alternator has a metal sleeve that needs to be rotated to one side, and the alternator nust need to be removed to allow the cables to be be released.

I took all 3 of the star bolts out to make it easier to locate the new alternator.

As for variations on alternator I am not sure - I ran a search on ebay and got one for £170 delivered. The new one has a proper heatsink on the regulator wheras the old one did not, so hopefully it should last longer.

_________________
--------------------
2004 9-3 Linear Sport 1.9 TiD 150


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:38 pm
Posts: 3
thanks for info. Been getting all the stuff together to have a go on Friday, new alternator via local autoelectrics place £178.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:38 pm
Posts: 3
Job done today. Couldn't see how to get a holding pin into tensioner but still managed by getting somone to help fit the belt while I held tension off. Seems its had an alternator before I bought it as the cable ties were already cut and the 3 E18 fixing bolts had clear signs of having a socket on. Also the wheel arch liner's been off as some of the plastic nuts are missing. That will be 3 alternators in 41k miles.
Fitted a Lucas model instead of the Saab/Denso original and had EML showing for a while but on second journey it's cleared, all seems ok now. Nice suprise that all radio settings fan speeds/ climate stuff etc had been kept in the memory so only had the clock to reset. Fingers crossed, thanks again for info on here.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:24 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:48 am
Posts: 1
Car Model: 93 Vector Sport TID (150)
I know this is an old thread, but in case some of you dont have the time or the skills to remove and refit alternator yourself, SaabTech in Stevenage do it for £316 all in.

My 93 Vector Sport TID (150) came up with the charging error yesterday morning. I need the car for work every day and I just don't have the time to take the alternator out and install a new one.

SaabTech also informed me that the oil cooler is about to go and thats another huge bill that I wasn't expecting :(


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2013 7:34 pm
Posts: 55
Car Model: 9=5
nurquhar wrote:
I thought I would log my method of getting the alternator off the wifes 2006 Saab 1.9 TiD 150 for anyone else wanting to change thier Cabury Alternator (they melt easy !!).

1. Jackup Front righthand side and remove wheel and wheel arch linear, as suggested above.

2. Unwire the two connections to the back of the alternator, 8mm and 12mm sockets. These are tricky to reach, and try not loose your socket off the end of the extension bar when working it in and out through the maize of pipes and wires like I did. Othersize you have to strip the plastic sump panel off below to retrive your tools.

3. Get a short metal rod, approx 5-6mm dia and 50mm long. I cut the top of an old 5mm wood screw .

4. Working from underneeth through the wheel arch with a hefty large screw driver lever back the spring loaded belt tensioner. You have to get it back far enough so you can insert your metal rod through the holes in the tensioner when you get them lined up.

5. Once the adjuster is held back by your rod you can get the belt off the pulleys.

6. Backup up top you need to get the wiring loom loose above the alternator so you can make space to get the alternator up and out. I disconnected the square looking plug/socket that seems to connect to the PAS gubins. I prised out some of the cable tie mounts and removed the backet holding one half of the square plug (use 10mm spanner on the two small bolts).

7. You need an E14 socket to fit the two main alternator bolts, st. davids star shaped. A trip to halfords if you hav'nt got one !

8. Remove the bottom E14 bolt from the alternator.

9. Loosen the top two E14 bolts on the alternator suspension link and remove the lower of the two. The alternator will now be free and will drop and wedge itself unless you catch it. I attached a tie wire to the large stud on the back of the alternator to help me hold the weight of it.

10. To get the saab to give birth to the dead alternator it needs to be allowed to drop down a bit and turn it so the pulley is pointing down. Then start to pull it out vertically up, black plastic cap end first. Whilst doing this you also have to carefully push all the wire loom bits out of the way towards the engine. In the absense of large pair of forecepts you might find a few swear words help relieve the tensions whilst your trying this manouver.

Reassembly of the new part should be the reverse of the procedure. (Although I have not done this yet, going to get new alternator from main dealer tomorrow, £191 + VAT but managed to blag a 10% discount).

Neil


Thanks for that, just checking my sockets

_________________
Everything in life is somewhere else, and you get there in a car


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2016 8:57 pm
Posts: 2
Car Model: Saab 93 1.9 Tid
Hi, Just used nurquhar's instructions while changing my Denso alternator on 2007 1.9 TID and he was right 2 hours is all you need as long as all the nuts come undone but just to add mine was held on with E18 bolts and a little tip once you have the old one off, to make it easier to put the new one in there is a bush on the engine side of the top bracket, use a g clamp and socket to push this back into the housing or you will struggle to get the top in, it will relocate itself when you tighten the top bolt and i found it easier to remove the 2 wires after i released the bottom bolt and pulled the unit upwards.

have fun

btw i got a remanufactured alternator off ebay for £86 next day delivery with 12 months warranty.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:59 pm
Posts: 21
Car Model: Saab 9-3 TiD 1.9
Great thread! Suggestion to mods: could it be made a sticky?
Also useful would be: info on which years of 9-3 this applies to; also, are proceedings the same for the 120 bhp engine?


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