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 Post subject: actuator recommendations
PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:54 pm 
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good evening chaps and chapesses

just had The Dog Noob'd to 3+ (showing 4 on the SID)

on a test run, it showed up that the actuator was a bit weak with age

any recommendations for a replacement actuator, genuine or aftermarket, for a TD04-15T on a B235R, fitted to an OG93 vert?

links if possible :D

Ta muchly

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:47 pm 
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this one any good?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TD04HL-15T-19 ... 3641.l6368

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 10:20 pm 
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I wouldn't use one from China. Try james vey or Pete raw.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 10:33 pm 
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Either fit a forge one at about £140.00 or a new genuine saab actuator, I'm not sure of the price of these
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 11:05 pm 
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as above

I fitted the Forge unit as I was feeling flush at the time and wanted it to last / be serviceable.

In retrospect the better option would probably be to get a genuine oem unit and just recon to replace it occasionally as it fails.

I was quite surprised though how quickly my oem did fail - less than a year after getting the upgrades and about 25k in total life! Hmmm - maybe the Forge then!

Just check with Karl about what spring to get - I think you will want the yellow but green can work but may not last as long.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 8:27 am 
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I know someone selling an Arashi actuator for the td04, has the 0.7 and 0.8 springs, from what karl said, the 0.8 was far too heavy, and the 0.7 was borderline maximum pressure

So, from that, it would need to be below 0.7 bar

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 4:18 pm 
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A 0.7 would be o.k., i just don't know how strong the Arashi springs are. You set pre-load (base boost) to almost anything you want on any strength spring but how strong that spring is after the intial pre-load has been overcome is another matter. You can have a really weak spring compressed to the hilt or a really strong spring compressed by a small amount, both can be the same 0.7bar pre-load but the weak one will just push wide open as soon as any load is put on the wastegate.

The Forge green spring for example is slightly weaker than the stock Saab item but can be pre-loaded to give the same base boost. The yellow spring is compressed much less to give the same base boost but is much harder to push open just using gas pressure in the exhaust housing.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 6:49 pm 
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SaabNoob wrote:
A 0.7 would be o.k., i just don't know how strong the Arashi springs are. You set pre-load (base boost) to almost anything you want on any strength spring but how strong that spring is after the intial pre-load has been overcome is another matter. You can have a really weak spring compressed to the hilt or a really strong spring compressed by a small amount, both can be the same 0.7bar pre-load but the weak one will just push wide open as soon as any load is put on the wastegate.

The Forge green spring for example is slightly weaker than the stock Saab item but can be pre-loaded to give the same base boost. The yellow spring is compressed much less to give the same base boost but is much harder to push open just using gas pressure in the exhaust housing.

Hi Karl , so for stage3 what would you go for a new genuine saab actuator or a Forge one
thanks Phil


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 10:07 am 
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Care needs to be taken when applying more than a few mm of preload as you effectively shorten the amount of travel that the actuator rod has meaning that the wastegate cannot open as far. This can lead to boost creep at higher rpm where it should be falling but can't as the gate won't open sufficiently causing boost to creep upwards. This is why the helper spring method gets used in preference to lots of preload.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 4:05 pm 
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Loads of preload to lift base boost is not a clever idea for the reasons Kei states. You're not really adjusting anything, you're just using the limited throw on the arm on a dodgy actuator to prevent the wastegate opening fully (that is what will happen on load when you've compressed a weak spring to give the appearance of higher base boost).

Nor is winding the rod out to lower it any better- you're just using the opposite end of the same limited throw on the arm to prevent the gate from fully closing (meaning the spring doesn't need to become over-powered in order for the boost to escape, as it's escaping all the time).

It's a fallacy that these actuators are adjustable and the amount of hassles I encounter when people have "adjusted" their actuators (in line with commonly bandied about advice) without having told me this is what they have done, is untrue.

Actuator arms should be wound so you have to put maybe 1mm of preload on it to get it on the flapper, and what you've got is what that actuator can do. Base boost then is what it is, and if it's too high or too low then you need to replace the actuator (or the spring or other components within it if it's possible to do that).

T5 at least is pretty resilient to base boost ranges, anywhere between about 0.3 and 0.6 is fine for anywhere from LPT to stage 3 or 4. What it's not resilient to is not being able to open or close the wastegate flapper properly!

Phil I'd replace with new standard (or China copy) over anything else at stage 3. Certainly don't go messing about with really hard (> 0.6 bar) springs or you're likely to end up with over-boost (which can be mapped around but really that's plastering over a crack that doesn't need to be there).

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 8:02 pm 
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Jules_ht wrote:
Phil I'd replace with new standard (or China copy) over anything else at stage 3. Certainly don't go messing about with really hard (> 0.6 bar) springs or you're likely to end up with over-boost (which can be mapped around but really that's plastering over a crack that doesn't need to be there).



So, from that, you would go with this one on a car at stage 3+?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/291859306335?_t ... mwBanner=1

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 3:01 pm 
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I'd probably ask about spring pressure. Also I note the bracket is part of the construction of the valve, meaning you're taking a bit of a gamble that it's straight fit with that one. Have you spoken to a turbo specialist about getting a replacement from them?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 6:59 am 
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Not yet, will have a look around for one locally

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