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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:33 am 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:22 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Ashford, Kent.
Car Model: 93 convertible Aero MMI
Good morning. Have a few areas under the car I want to treat. Is thus stuff any good or any better products out there? You don’t get a lot for your money with the hammerite product.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:45 am 
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UKS Encyclopædia G-M
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Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2004 9:39 am
Posts: 40719
Location: SW Herts
Car Model: 9-5 Aero est. 9-3 Carlsson
I have found that “Hydrate 80” by Bilt Hamber to be very good. It was recommended by a Saab specialist.

You can paint it over rust, wait for it to cure, then rub down, prime, paint, etc. It doesn’t need to be washed off or passiviated before painting.

They recommend several hours for the curing, but also say that a much shorter time is OK if desperate.

I have done a patch of bodywork rust and both rear wheel arches, and they are good after some years. The bodywork was primed and painted. The wheel arches were Hammerited and then undersealed.

The most telling thing is that when I did the bodywork repair, I cleaned the brush out by “painting” a rusty chain that hangs from my trailer, in the open air. Three years later that rust is still “killed” and trapped beneath the coat of Hydrate 80.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 10:07 am 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:22 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Ashford, Kent.
Car Model: 93 convertible Aero MMI
sgould wrote:
I have found that “Hydrate 80” by Bilt Hamber to be very good. It was recommended by a Saab specialist.

You can paint it over rust, wait for it to cure, then rub down, prime, paint, etc. It doesn’t need to be washed off or passiviated before painting.

They recommend several hours for the curing, but also say that a much shorter time is OK if desperate.

I have done a patch of bodywork rust and both rear wheel arches, and they are good after some years. The bodywork was primed and painted. The wheel arches were Hammerited and then undersealed.

The most telling thing is that when I did the bodywork repair, I cleaned the brush out by “painting” a rusty chain that hangs from my trailer, in the open air. Three years later that rust is still “killed” and trapped beneath the coat of Hydrate 80.



Thank you. I will try it out. What quantity did you buy, and was it enough?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 1:25 pm 
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UKS Encyclopædia G-M
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Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2004 9:39 am
Posts: 40719
Location: SW Herts
Car Model: 9-5 Aero est. 9-3 Carlsson
I bought one 500ml bottle and I still have some left.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 3:51 pm 
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UKS Addict
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Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:20 pm
Posts: 2134
Car Model: 2004, 9-5 Aero, Noob 3
What sort of rust are you treating? I personally think the rust converters are a bit snake oil.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 5:39 pm 
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Saab Nut

Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:22 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Ashford, Kent.
Car Model: 93 convertible Aero MMI
Eselar wrote:
What sort of rust are you treating? I personally think the rust converters are a bit snake oil.


Well I never heard that term before - snake oil.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:40 pm 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2013 12:10 am
Posts: 710
Location: West Berks
Car Model: XC70.....
sgould wrote:
I have found that “Hydrate 80” by Bilt Hamber to be very good. It was recommended by a Saab specialist.

You can paint it over rust, wait for it to cure, then rub down, prime, paint, etc. It doesn’t need to be washed off or passiviated before painting.

They recommend several hours for the curing, but also say that a much shorter time is OK if desperate.

I have done a patch of bodywork rust and both rear wheel arches, and they are good after some years. The bodywork was primed and painted. The wheel arches were Hammerited and then undersealed.

The most telling thing is that when I did the bodywork repair, I cleaned the brush out by “painting” a rusty chain that hangs from my trailer, in the open air. Three years later that rust is still “killed” and trapped beneath the coat of Hydrate 80.


That matches my experience with Hydrate 80. Hardest thing about using it is getting the cap off once the threads get wet.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 3:59 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:30 pm
Posts: 377
Car Model: 9-5 wagon
Bilt Hamber stuff is good, rather than new spec Hammerite which isn't a patch on the original try using Bilt Hamber's 2 pack epoxy mastic, brilliant stuff, then over wax with one of their wax products, they even do a clear version so you can see your lovely paint under it and it dried hard

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 12:15 pm 
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UKS Addict

Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:47 pm
Posts: 2381
Hydrate 80 is an excellent product. It really does last. It's always preferable to remove rust rather than convert it though.
I would be looking to get as much of the rust off as possible first. If you have something like a Black and Decker powerfile it will come off quickly. Bilt Hamber Deox gel is good at removing even pitted rust - if it's in a hard to reach section, you coat the area then use cling film and tape to stop it falling off.

I would choose Hydrate 80 over Kurust any day, but always wash and dry the bottle top and the neck thread as it will be near impossible to remove, as EO said earlier.


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