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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 9:51 am 
Active user
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Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:02 am
Posts: 101
Location: ireland
Car Model: 9-5 + 9-3
Items needed

1 * 13mm ring spanner ( about 5inches long)

1 * 17mm socket piece and ratchet

2 * 16mm spanners

1 * 25 mm torx piece or screwdriver

1 * trolley lift + thick piece of wood.

Having read the guide at link on how to replace the rear engine mount i decided to give it a go.

Here's what i found while doing the work on my 1998 9000 cse.

1. All the bolts holding in the rear engine mounts to the chassis are 13mm and not the 13mm/14mm combination as specified.

2. the bolt holding the engine to the mount is 16mm

3. no need to remove wheel arch trim or plastic inserts.

Here's how i did it.


1. at the rear of the engine above the rear mount remove the 25 torx screw holding in the pipe and gently flex the pipe out of the way so that you can see the 16mm
bolt ( you will need a torch ) and slid the holding clip to the right

2. loosen driver side wheel

3. jack up car and place axel stand under each side

4. remove drivers wheel

5. now using the 13mm spanner on top and the 17mm socket on the bottom nut remove the 2 bolts/nuts from the drivers side. Access is tight but very manageable.

6. now slide under the car and remove the final nut/blot on the inside of the mount toward s the middle of the car.

7. using a very long extension piece and 16mm socket loosen the bolt (from above) that holds the engine to the mount.

8. now support the engine using the trolley jack and a thick piece of wood under the sump just enough to take the weight off the top engine mount.

9. remove the bolt/nut holding in the top engine mount using the 16mm spanners

10. continue to jack up the engine until you can fully remove the rear mount. all the time checking for clearance . the mount slips out towards the front of the car .

11. install the new mount ( you may need to jack up the engine a little more as the new mount will be taller than the worn old one ) and here's the important piece
get the 16mm bolt threaded onto the mount BEFORE lowering the engine back .

12. lower engine back down gently and re-install all 3 bolts/nuts and tighten to required torque 40Nm (30lbft) .

13. reinstall the bolt on the top engine mount and tighten to 40Nm (30lbft)

14. tighten up the 16mm bolt holding the engine to the rear mount.

15. refit the drivers wheel and torque to 115Nm ( 85lbft)

16 . lower the car

17. re-install the supporting clip via the 25 torx screw.

hope this helps to reduce the amount of work required took about 1.5hrs from start to finish.


you will be working in an area of risk so you use this procedure at your own risk and i assume no responsibility for your actions using this guide.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 1:04 pm 
SAAB Sport & Rally Guy
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Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2005 6:13 pm
Posts: 26159
Location: Whitley Bay
Car Model: 96, C900, 9k, 9-3 & 9-5
Just to clarify:

A bolt or screw with a 13mm A/F hex is in fact an M8. Car manufacturers 'found' that with improving material properties and manufacturing techniques bolt heads could be made smaller (a bit like Whitworth fasteners) to reduce weight and material costs. Because this change is ongoing, it is not unusual to find either 12mm or 13mm A/F M8 bolts and 16mm or 17mm A/F bolts for the same applications - usually on different MYs of car though.

It's good practice to quote the size of the fastener (eg M8, M10) as you never know if someone has had to change it before you got there.

Vita est difficile et tum vobiscum morietur

PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:06 pm 
UKS Addict
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Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:23 pm
Posts: 2273
Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Car Model: 900T16s, Daihatsu Charade GTti
Is it the same procedure and bits for autos and manuals?

Good write up by the way :)

PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:37 pm 
Active user
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:02 am
Posts: 101
Location: ireland
Car Model: 9-5 + 9-3
hi steve

mine is an auto but i believe the procedure and parts should be the same.



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