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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:05 pm 
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OK finally got the new front discs fitted on Saturday and after a major argument with the caliper hanger E20 Torx Bolts they gave in (pads were about 5K from worn-out, discs had quite bad wear too and were about the min. thickness)
New discs and pads fitted and after a gentle bedding in run, I notice they are far short of the old set up so as it has been many years since I carried this out previously, how long do new discs and pads need to bed in and give best stopping power and what do others do to make this process better?

I had been told of one person who swears by around 5 high speed emergency stops on the trot, but this seems a wee bit extreme?
I am just driving as normal and being careful :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:23 pm 
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Location: Bristol
Car Model: '99 9-3 ex-LPT '55 Diesel SW
I think certain pads (DS2500 maybe?) come soft, the idea being that the first bit of braking shapes them to the contours of the discs, and then the 5 high speed to zero braking runs cook the brakes and cure the pads to their new shape. If you don't cook them they stay soft and dissappear in no time.

Other pads already come cured, and cooking them on day 1 is primary way #1 to get warped discs. It is not advisable to to the 5 heavy braking runs unless you know your setup needs it. Driving very carefully for a few hundred miles, avoiding heavy brake use wherever possible, is commonly accepted good braking in procedure, I have been informed by people I trust.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:55 pm 
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Location: Glenrothes, Fife
Car Model: 95, 99, 900, 9000, 93, Sonett
I usually drive gently for around 100 miles, taking twice or three times as long approaching junctions with very light braking indeed to start bedding in new discs and pads. Also when driving, gentle application of the brakes for perhaps ten seconds every minute or so allows them to bed without warping the discs. Only after I've done all of the above would I consider going for any heavier braking, and even then strictly limited.

Biggest problem for me was getting the rear discs, and therefore the handbrake, to bed in - ended up driving along with the handbrake on for ten seconds every minute, which quickly produced some impressive results. Finished off with a few sharp stops from 60 to 0, this sorted the whole system out nicely and have been good ever since. Brakes aren't bad at all for such a big car as my 9000.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 4:16 pm 
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I know some people bake there disc for a few hours in an oven, I will Cryogenically deep freeze my next discs, I do it on my Merkur razor blades and they last for 22 to 25 shaves when before they would get blunted and cut my face in 5 shaves,

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:18 am 
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Location: Fliptop Towers, North Yorks...the flat bit.
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New discs & pads means everything is nice & flush so you don't have to worry about the pads taking time to wear to the profile of the disc.

I for one am a firm believer in the old "give em hell when new" routine, I don't believe in pussy-footing about with new brakes. A few good hard stomps to get them hot, and even a little smelly, helps remove the rough surface from the pads and start the chemical reaction between disc & pad. Just make sure you let them cool a bit before stopping altogether.

With standard kit you don't need to be as extreme as the DS2500 bedding in procedure (where you have to pretty much get them to fade before they cure properly) but from 96s to 9-5s I've always gone for the more aggressive approach to bedding in. I'd rather sacrifice a couple of thousand miles of useful pad life and have good brakes from day 1, than risk not having full braking capacity available for a while. It also avoids the risk of glazing the new pads through over-gentle use.

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