UKSaabs

THE site for UK Saab people!
It is currently Sun Sep 22, 2019 3:37 am

All times are UTC



Forum rules


When you put a new thread up in the Workshop please put your car's year and model in the thread title, along with just a brief indicator of the problem.

Car Year - Car Model: Brief description of issue. EXAMPLE- 1999 9-3. Problems starting when hot.

Please also add as much information as you can about the problem, to your post.

This will help us to help you, without having to ask basic details such as what car you have.


Threads with non-compliant titles will be moved to The Pit Lane (in which no replies can be posted, but the OP can edit the thread - upon which the thread will be released to the workshop forum)

Nb. Generic thread titles for truly generic issues that genuinely are not model or variant specific (such as "how do I change the spring in an forge wastegate actuator") are acceptable

**The first 5 posts for new users require individual moderator approval (which they will only get it if they are in line the rules of the forum). Please be patient and allow time for that to happen, and avoid duplicate postings.**



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 1 post ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 11:41 am 
Offline
Active user

Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2015 9:05 pm
Posts: 163
Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD Conv. 2010
Hi,
Have spent most of the sunny weekend under my car doing a comprehensive service. Some observations for others.
1. Oil change - the oil was blacker than black, thick and very sludgy. Suspect this has not been done for some time/miles. Having to remove the Conv. cross member to remove the undertray is a bit of pain. One previous owner had sheeared one of the rear bolts so will haave to obtain one of thoe and a bolt extraction kit.
The oil filter could be in a worse place, but not by much. Even using the drain tube, oil goes everywhere. And the brake pipe gets in the way of a standard 32mm socket.
2. Auto gerbox oil. Obtined 20l of the sstuff suitable for the AF40-6 gearbox. New ssealss, wasshers fitted after 5 changes of at lleast 3 litres of new oil per change. Quick calcuaaltion I've managed to get to aboout 93.5% new oil. As engine tray and cross member have to come off for the oil change, I'll probaably do a new 3 litres at each oil change. Relatively hassle free.
3. Timing belt and auxillary belt. This is a real pain to do. Mainly because there is too little space between the engine block and main chassis member/wing side. Another 1/2" would maake life alot easier. I had to get angle grinder on most sockets to reduce their length and use long bit of 2x4" wood to lever engine to passenger side.
Some cak handed grease moneky had all but turned corners of 2 of the 15mm engine mounting bracket to engine bolts. Fortunately I had 15mm hex rtaher than usual multifaced socket which uses flats of the bolt rather than coreners for grip.
As others have mentioned, the cambelt tensioner adjust is difficult to see the pointer/marker. You reaally have to look from above and below to ensure its centered as the angle to view is so acute.
I think previous cam belt change had left timing a touch out as the belt marker was 1 tooth out from notch on the cam sprocket. I had the proper cambelt timing kit (£10 of fleabay) and the crankshaft sprocket was a touch out with both inlet and exhaust camshafts correctly centered, with the spring loaded pin bolts.
Whilst this kit is not essential, it is, aa far as I can see, the only way to accurately check the timing. I couldn't find any notches/markings on the top cambelt housing as shown in the various you tube guides.
You also need a Star bolt socket set. the engine mountings, the auxillary belt idler wheel and the plastic camshaft cover to inlet pipe are this type.
AND ALWAYS BLOCK AND COVER THE INLET PIPE TO TURBO. I dropped a socket down there, fortunately the trusty magnetised recovery tool I have retrieved it after 20 mins of poking carefully almost up the the first turbo blades! I had even consider more of strip down to access/remove the black plastic inlet pipe. This is also a pain as it gets in the way of removing the plastic cambelt cover easily.
The engiine started first time and feels more responsive, presumably due to the correct cambelt timing and fresh oil.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 1 post ] 

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group

follow UKSaabs on Twitter



UKSaabs silhouette logo images by Mark Green www.greenphotos.com
"subsilver2" slightly bodged by UKSaabs for our own use.

:: Disclaimer ::
Comments posted here are the views of their individual authors and are not necessarily shared by the owners of this Web site.
Authors assume all responsibility for comments posted here.

UKSaabs The biggest and best privately owned UK based independent Saab forum for all SAAB enthusiasts.
Whilst we encourage our users to support our advertisers the site wishes to remain independent and therefore does not endorse any particular advertiser(s)
UKSaabs is not affiliated with Saab Cars UK or Saab Automobile AB