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When you put a new thread up in the Workshop please put your car's year and model in the post subject/thread title, along with just a brief indicator of the problem.

Car Year - Car Model: Brief description of issue. EXAMPLE- 1999 9-3. Problems starting when hot.

For Tech II issues or help requests please state the following in your title ''Tech 2 help required - state issue and your location ''.


Please also add as much information as you can about the problem, to your post.

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Nb. Generic thread titles for truly generic issues that genuinely are not model or variant specific (such as "how do I change the spring in an forge wastegate actuator") are acceptable

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 2:01 pm 
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UKS Addict

Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 8:13 pm
Posts: 2530
Location: Peterborough UK
Car Models: 9-5 Aero 2001,1.9TID x 2
Over the last few months my 2007 9-3 Vert has been starting to fight me with regard to accepting and releasing my ignition key(s)
So based on various threads over on Saabcentral and with the help of WIS I decided to have a go at fixing it rather than shell out
£100 plus for a new ISM.

https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/show ... stcount=36
https://app.box.com/s/30vixoog9b8rprgvjd682u63kwj9tzax

I think we all know that Saab's unique location of the ignition switch leads to inevitable accumulation of crud...true for both old and new models.

It took me about an hour to remove the switch from the car mainly due to the fact there were two additional torx screws on each side of the central console
which arent mentioned in the WIS until reassembly! As there was little to no room down each side of the seats I had to use a T25 Bit clamped into a small pair
of vice grips to remove them.

Note I did NOT disconnect the main car battery whilst doing this job as keys would require resynch as well as disengaging the steering wheel lock.
The WIS does not state this as a requirement either but if you follow this guide its your choice to disconnect or not.
Any faults following the procedure below would be down to me knackering the switch........at least that was my reasoning.


Tools/Materials to dissasemble switch

1.Selection of small and large flat blade screw drivers
2.8 large Paper clips
3.Cotton wool buds
4.Brake Cleaner/IPA solvent of choice
5.PTFE Silicone Grease.

The Switch removed from the car
Image

The hardest part of the job is splitting the ISM snap case,as this is held together with 8 lugs....patience and swearing helps....
I used a small screwdriver to lever the white plastic edges,and then slid a paper clip beside the blade to prevent it snapping shut again.
Image

Gradually work around the sides of the case until the 8 paper clips are located bertween the two case halves.
Image
Image

Then you can seperate the two halves...using a larger flat blade screwdriver to lever around the sides.
Image

Carefully remove the key eject mechanism in the centre of the switch.........note I retensioned this as iI judged it to be a little tired after 10 years use (stretched it slightly before reassembly)
Image

Lift off the circuit board ...note the two locator pins on the plastic case diagonally opposite
Image

I then set about cleaning the contact tracks and slide switches with cotton wool buds and a dab of brake cleaner.
Image

After some cleaning the tracks looked much better!
Image

In order to help switch contact I bent the switch pins slightly ..probably no more than 5mm to retension.
Image

I decided not to dissassemble the switches as all three seemed to move back and forth easily using a small screwdriver.
I did re lube the key eject mechanism with some PTFE silicone grease (which is also used in the CIM switches) as it did need cleaning.
Image

It then remains to place the circuit board back onto the plastic switch part (locating pins),centrally locating the spring and black plunger (making sure it moves
freely up and down with your finger) and pushing the two halves back together. DO NO SNAP IT SHUT until you know for sure the eject mechanism moves freely
up and down as you will then have to get the screwdrivers and paper clips out again!

And so we are back to the start.
Image

The switch is now back in the car and for now the fighting has stopped..for now anyway!
Time will tell............

About 3hrs in total with a few cups of tea along the way!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 4:08 pm 
Offline
Active user

Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2018 5:55 pm
Posts: 52
Car Models: 2004 9-3 Aero
Great guide, I literally did just this about two weeks ago and fixed my NG but was too useless to do a guide


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:04 am 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:53 am
Posts: 894
Car Models: .
good job :) good to meet you on monday sir


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