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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:17 pm 
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Car Model: 9-3 aero convertible
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has fitted, or can offer advice on fitting a tow bar to an 08 (model) aero convertible.
Ideally I want to avoid cutting the rear apron, and be able to install the tow bar myself.

I know I can email the various companies selling on the internet, but I am hoping from some 'real world' advice from the real people that would know.

Thank you in advance, guys


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 5:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2016 5:47 pm
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Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD convertible auto
I was just asking this the other day on the facebook page. I too have an 08 Aero convertible.

Basically you want a removable swan neck Witter brand tow bar. You do have to cut a little but it's underneath so you don't see it apparently.

Then get a dedicated wiring harness (plug and play with no cutting of wires required) and this will do things like disable the rear fog on the car and the parking sensors.

I've yet to work out if the Saab has an adapted ESP programme for towing. Some of the descriptions for the wiring list this feature but not too sure if it's right.

This is apparently the correct tow bar. As you can see the bar goes down and under the bumper not straight out:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Witte ... xyrrpThKQS

And this is the harness I was going to get:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Towbar-Dedica ... y4S5cWYgYA

Out of interest what do you plan to tow? The 9-3 Convertible has a decent towing weight (1,600kg for my TTiD). I plan to get a decent sized folding camper/trailer with a gross weight of around 1000kg so way under the limit.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:21 pm 
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Posts: 279
Car Model: Saab 95 2.3t estate
Dont need to code saabs/vauxhalls etc.

The cut would only be visible if you are right at eye heigh to it.

For the cost though as its 2008 i would use a bypass relay and hardwire it though, parts would be around 30 quid.

Btw my job is to fit them for a living lol


Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:41 pm 
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Car Model: 9-3 aero convertible
My intention is only to haul a small trailer, certainly nothing bigger as I have downsized from a BMW 5 series estate.

Seb_Ryan Can you recommend a make. It doesnt need a detachable. There are quite a few out there, any my philosophy is if "you buy cheap, you buy twice"


Thank you


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 7:16 am 
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Car Model: Saab 95 2.3t estate
We use witter at work as they have a lifetime warranty.
There is a company on ebay that do cheap but ok towbars called PF Jones if i remember rightly, aswell as A1 towbars, either of these are ok

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 7:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:53 pm
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Car Model: 9-3 aero convertible
Thank you for the advice. I shall ring Witter over this weekend.
I had considered Witter as a brand, long established and been around for years.
Once fitted my intention was always to hardwire the trailer board through a relay.

I should photograph the install and post on here if it helps anyone else.

Thank you.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 9:06 am 
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Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD convertible auto
I've ordered myself a tow bar and wiring kit.

I've gone for the dedicated twin electric kit. My main reasons were ease of install (just plugs straight into the REC module) and having a more reliable connection rather than scotch blocks etc.

The caravan I am getting also has the twin electrics to charge the battery and run the fridge. I believe I'll need to wire this up manually to a beefy fuse somewhere (should be able to get a feed from the REC unused 40amp electric seats circuit).

I will post up some pictures of the install. I've already removed the boot trim to access the REC etc. Also removed the rear lights and bolts/screws ready to remove the bumper.

If anyone needs the templates for the bumper cuts they are available on WIS.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 9:08 am 
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Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD convertible auto
Forgot to say that my caravan will have a maximum gross weight of 1200kg so well under the limit for the TTID aero. I'll just have to remember not to accelerate too hard for fear of ripping the caravan apart! lol

The only concern I have is the rear suspension.

I picked up a few path edging stones and some cement from B&Q the other day and the back end was quite low. So with a boot full and the caravan on I'm concerned the rear end will be sitting a bit low.

Anyone know if bump stops can be fitted to stop the suspension bottoming out?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 11:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2005 5:53 pm
Posts: 1868
Location: N W London
Car Model: 9 3 Sport Combi 2.0t + Noob
You need a pair of those spring assisters available on eBay at a reasonable price.
I used them on my (ex) 9-5 estate for carrying building stuff in the back.
They work well.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 12:18 pm 
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Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD convertible auto
This type of thing?

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 6:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2016 5:47 pm
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Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD convertible auto
Got my towbar fitted yesterday.

This is the one I got. £267 with the dedicated twin electrics and free delivery.

https://www.pfjones.co.uk/saab-9-3-conv ... owbar.html

Can't fault it. Bolted straight on and the instructions were easy to follow.

The wiring just plugged straight in and it came with a trailer control module that clicked into the REC.

I had to wire into a 12v supply which the kit recommended going to the battery but given that there is a plentiful supply in the boot i just used the unused circuits for electric memory seats for this.

Bumper was easy to get off:


Image

And there is no visible bumper cut on my Aero:

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 7:11 pm 
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Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD convertible auto
Got my twin electrics working now. When hooked up before the voltage control relay was clicking on and off as if it wasn't getting enough power.

I shorted the cable runs and used a separate fuse for the relay control feed.

I think what was happening is that as the load was applied to the circuit the voltage dropped and as i had taken the control feed from the same circuit as the load it what then turning the relay back off.

I can now have the beers chilling in the fridge while on the road!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2005 5:53 pm
Posts: 1868
Location: N W London
Car Model: 9 3 Sport Combi 2.0t + Noob
Philje123 wrote:
This type of thing?

Image


Exactly right.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 12:44 pm
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Location: Bristol
Car Model: '99 9-3 ex-LPT '55 Diesel SW
Philje123 wrote:
The caravan I am getting also has the twin electrics to charge the battery and run the fridge.


I thought battery charge was part of the 12N plug? 12S carrying fridge and either fog or reverse (don't recall which).

Philje123 wrote:
I had to wire into a 12v supply which the kit recommended going to the battery but given that there is a plentiful supply in the boot i just used the unused circuits for electric memory seats for this.


Are you sure that feed is up to the load? I suppose the seats are probably pretty high draw. I recall when fitting mine I did run a dedicated wire from the battery to the boot for the 12S plug, wasn't much hassle and is then separately fused also (although if you don't have the seats that's already achieved).

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2016 6:57 pm
Posts: 279
Car Model: Saab 95 2.3t estate
12s is perm live, 2 switched lives, reverse and earths.

12n is all lights inc cutout.

We use 15 amp for the volton (for the lives etc) so any 15 or above is fine.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 7:29 am 
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Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD convertible auto
Yes as above. 12n socket is just for the rear light on the caravan.

The 12s has an additional reverse wire too but also 2x 12v for battery charging and fridge.

Both these circuits have a 15amp fuse. The circuits I am using would normally have a 40amp fuse so it should be fine.

There are several permanent 12v feeds to the REC using very thick cabling. Not all of these feeds are used when you don't have electric seats etc so there's plenty of spare power back there.

The label inside my fridge says it uses 150w on 12v supply. If we say in reality it's more like 13v that works out at 11amps.

The wiring diagram for my 12s socket shows these feeds being rated to 180w or 13amps.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 1:28 pm 
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Car Model: 9-3 Aero TTiD convertible auto
Had our first trip away this weekend with the caravan:

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 11:54 am 
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Location: Bristol
Car Model: '99 9-3 ex-LPT '55 Diesel SW
Nice, we're away tomorrow (having had a springtime shakedown a couple of weekends ago).

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