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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 10:33 pm 
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I have rebuilt the rear calipers and everything works smoothly. Set the handbrake according to the book-screw in adjuster until pads bind then back off 1/2 turn & 1mm feeler at end stop. Result is pants, lever comes up hell of a way. The actuator arm on the caliper travels through a quadrant with a stop at either end. I assume the 1mm is at the back end, i.e. the actuator has virtually the full quadrant to go. I will reset it again tomorrow but I was expecting it to only go 3 or 4 clicks before locking


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 7:52 am 
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mine was very poor too, tried adjusting until the cows come home - no good. Ended up needing to replace the handbrake cables because they'd stretched, much fun:

Image

Fine thereafter, it was a huge difference in the amount of handbrake lever travel afterwards ...

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 8:44 am 
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It's just that when I sorned it a few months back the handbrake operation was ok. I have done cables before and know what a pita job it is.
Oh bugger.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 9:14 am 
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I’ll have to trawl through the paperwork at home, but it was only just about passing for a few years. If replaced both rear callipers and it didn’t make much difference. Then last year it failed the MOT spectacularly on the handbrake - not even close to passing - and that’s with me adjusting it before the MOT. Changed both cables and it then passed easily.

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'04 9-5 Aero manual, stage 3
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 11:25 am 
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Have bitten the bullet and a good way into the job now. I have some nearly new spares so will fit those. Thought i would do the job strictly according Haynes-Naugh!!. How you are supposed to roll back the carpet with the drivers seat still in situ beats me. Both seats now out and that cover plate exposed. Stopped for coffee and it's raining.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 3:56 pm 
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Are you fitting new rear pads at the same time? The handbrake will probably be best re-adjusted after the pads have worn in.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 11:16 am 
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Done it. Fitted nearly new replacements and it's fine. I did this job many years ago but had forgotten some of the procedures. Haynes ( and Saab manaual ) say "drop tank slightly" That's rubbish. I disconnected the lines at the pump and dropped the tank away. If you dont it's a real pain to thread the n/s cable through through the forward strap bracket.
I reused the old pads. Plenty of meat on them.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 11:57 am 
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I think that I just lowered the tank right down on the studs rather than complete removal, having done that a year or two ago when I did the brake lines ... hopefully you'll be good again now for another few years :-)

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 12:04 pm 
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Tried that first Sounds but couldn't thread it. It was only a few minutes more to drop the tank.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 8:24 am 
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Location: Sandwich
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I did this a few years back now and is possible by just lowering the tank - it just a fiddle.
I think i also dived in under the rear carpet rather than remove the front seats. I think there is still a screwdriver buried under there somewhere...lol
Handbrake adjustment is always a faff at MOT time - last year the garage adjusted mine during the test. Very odd as i never remember having those issues with my old '87 9000 - only issue i had with that was it freezing on in very cold weather.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 9:47 am 
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Come to think of it, I seem to remember the issue I had was that the upper cable runs through/under a bracket of some sort and turns in the process, meaning it snags when you try to remove or install it. You just need to help it through by feeding it through that part.

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'04 9-5 Aero manual, stage 3
'08 Jaguar XFR


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 4:08 pm 
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Car Models: 2x 9000 & 9-5
Think I may replace the cables while I'm already replacing the brake lines and carpet. Looks loadsa fun!

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2020 4:46 pm 
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Just take your time. Quite a lot of dismantling involved but it is not hard , just time consuming. Handbrake now fully on with 4 clicks. I set the handbrake according the book, i.e. screw in the adjuster until it binds then back off 1/2 turn, however, with the car still up on stands and the wheels on I did notice one wheel easier to turn than the other. Tested the wheels for "turnability" at both 1 and 2 clicks then turned one of the adjusters a smidgen until they "balanced". Just took 1/4 turn. Now happy with the feel and operation.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 9:36 pm 
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Car Models: 9k, 9-5 Aero & a Jaaag
Well ... a year after fitting the handbrake cables and the car failed its' MOT on nearside handrake. This is a year (and less than 100 miles!!) after the cables were changed. I replaced both rear calipers with refurbished (Pagid) units and it doesn't seem much better - adjusting the handbrake as described in this thread and the lever comes right the way up, like it was before the cables were changed.

I checked the cables inside the car and all looks fine there and the cables are fitted correctly at the calipers. I did notice that if I turn the adjusters on the handbrake lever by hand to take up slack, then operate the lever a couple of times there's at least 1/2 a turn of slack again. Is this the self adjustment doing its' thing? Either way, I then jacked up the rear of the car and the offside wheel was locked (so I backed it off), yet the nearside wasn't locked at all. So there seems to be some sort of imbalance there ... from a quick look underneath it looks like the nearside cable is the one which runs between the fuel tank and the car.

Something's not right, the cables can't be stretched in a year - especially when the car has spent most of that time in the garage, with the handbrake off.

Can anyone explain why the nearside handbrake is so poor?

The results from the last few years:

October 2019 - FAIL, showed 171/152kgf on service brake for N/S and O/S respectively, 55/49kgf on handbrake. Replaced both cables.
November 2019 - PASS, showed 197/185kgf on service brake for N/S and O/S respectively, 200/171kgf on handbrake. Perfect, or so I thought ...
November 2020 (1) - FAIL, showed 85/148kgf on service brake for N/S and O/S respectively, 52/85kgf on handbrake. Re-adjusted handbrake again.
November 2020 (2) - FAIL, showed 96/141kgf on service brake for N/S and O/S respectively, 64/58kgf on handbrake.

Prior to the fail in October 2019, it usually passed - albeit just. What gives - and why is it consistently so poor ... did I do something wrong when changing the cables perhaps - it doesn't look like it's the calipers. I was told by the MOT tester it shouldn't be possible to drive the car forwards with the handbrake on - and it is currently, so I haven't booked it in for another MOT yet.

Any ideas and help would be welcome!

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'98 9000 2.3T CSE, stage 3
'04 9-5 Aero manual, stage 3
'08 Jaguar XFR


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 10:55 pm 
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I’d be more worried about the low service brake force on the near side, unless you have omitted a 1 and it should be 185 and 196. Have you checked the attachment points along the cable run?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:10 am 
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Regards service brake suspect that if car not done many miles between tests the pads just need bedding again and warming up prior to test..... . one of the worst results i had was after fitting new pads and discs with little bedding in.
Join the club btw Dan....i will try and scan my results in for this year. I left the handbrake alone this year as passed last year and not many miles but no, it failed on one side so adjusted that up at the calliper and all good second time. I tend to adjust so just locked adn then back off a smidge - it seems to be a balance between tightening up enough but not binding
The CS handbrake is indeed a mysterious thing as i had an '87 flat front and never touched it in years - the only issue i had with that was it used to freeze on in winter - still a couple of miles and the heat freed it up again :D

Your readings do seem low Dan - suspect it needs a few miles to bed in and warm up............................

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9000 Aero 1995 in black
1994 GM 900
1987 9000 16V S Turbo


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:18 am 
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Attachment:
Fail 202011222020.pdf [850.45 KiB]
Downloaded 7 times


Attachment:
Fail 202011222020.pdf [850.45 KiB]
Downloaded 7 times

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1994 GM 900
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:59 am 
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GeoffR wrote:
I’d be more worried about the low service brake force on the near side, unless you have omitted a 1 and it should be 185 and 196. Have you checked the attachment points along the cable run?

Sorry, I didn't make my self clear - after the last two tests, I replaced the rear calipers (and pads too, now). Think I might need to drop the fuel tank again to get visibility of the LH cable run ...

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'98 9000 2.3T CSE, stage 3
'04 9-5 Aero manual, stage 3
'08 Jaguar XFR


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2020 10:02 am 
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Location: Queenborough, Kent
Car Models: 9k, 9-5 Aero & a Jaaag
Mike9000Aero wrote:
Regards service brake suspect that if car not done many miles between tests the pads just need bedding again and warming up prior to test..... . one of the worst results i had was after fitting new pads and discs with little bedding in.
Join the club btw Dan....i will try and scan my results in for this year. I left the handbrake alone this year as passed last year and not many miles but no, it failed on one side so adjusted that up at the calliper and all good second time. I tend to adjust so just locked adn then back off a smidge - it seems to be a balance between tightening up enough but not binding
The CS handbrake is indeed a mysterious thing as i had an '87 flat front and never touched it in years - the only issue i had with that was it used to freeze on in winter - still a couple of miles and the heat freed it up again :D

Your readings do seem low Dan - suspect it needs a few miles to bed in and warm up............................

Thanks Mike, a bit difficult now as the MOT has expired :wall:

I did find the official Saab workshop information on the web and note that it states to back off "between 1/4 and 1/2 a turn", I was doing a 1/2 turn. Plus I think I was doing that with the cable still on. So I'll repeat the process by taking the cable off first, set caliper, refit cable then adjust clearance. Again, for the handbrake cables Haynes says 1mm should fit between arm and end stop with a little resistance - whereas Saab workshop guide says fit 1mm feeler gauge and adjust until it falls out ...

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'04 9-5 Aero manual, stage 3
'08 Jaguar XFR


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2020 12:41 pm 
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I think you are on the right track. It will be down at the caliper adjustment. When you pull up the handbrake cable it turns the adjuster cam. You can see in the photo that the locating hole is off centre, hence the cam effect. A pin goes in that hole and into the bottom of the piston screw pin. When the cam turns it pushes the piston. Clearly the travel is very small judging by the angles involved. Assuming everything correctly assembled I would wind in the adjuster until you lock the brake then set up your cable and see what travel you have, then back off 1/4 turn and go again.[url]Image[/url]


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