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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:31 pm 
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Can anybody say whether or not 190mA is indicative of something untoward happening in the electrics when everything is off and the key is out, please?

My 04MY 'vert just drained its battery, and I discovered that the in-dash cd changer had been continually trying to load discs after the ignition was turned off, pulling about 5 amps while doing so. Having persuaded the changer to stop loading, the current draw dropped to 150-190mA, but is this still a bit high?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:33 pm 
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Car Model: One of the first RHD 9-5s
More than 50mA and I would be bothered. It does take about 10 minutes before the car is fully asleep though and if you have a door or bonnet open it will never be fully asleep.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:54 pm 
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Car Model: 9-5 Aero 2001,1.9TID x 2
Too high imho ...its 30mA on a 2001 9-5 Aero.
I did have a fault with a purge valve staying permanently on and then the drain was about 200mA with a flat battery every few days!


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:21 pm 
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Thanks chaps. I did have the bonnet open, but looks like I need to do a bit more digging. One fuse at a time, I guess!

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 12:04 pm 
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Dammit....now it's reading 5mA before taking any fuses out. I give up!

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 3:39 pm 
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Car Model: Saab 9-3 Aero
190mA is way above normal (would flatten good battery in 1-2 weeks).

I’ve spent ages chasing a current drain/alarm triggering on my 9-3 Aero, and think have narrowed it down to door/window control unit. Sleuthing drains on a modern Saab is a pain frankly, because of the whole “going to sleep” thing which can take several minutes, combined with battery of fuses spread around the vehicle! Thus finding the errant circuit takes a lot longer than on a more conventional or at any rate older car. Pulling any fuse is then followed by at least couple of minutes waiting for car to shut down after closing door.

But yes, after you’ve eliminated the drain, the quiescent drain should be well under 50mA. On my Aero when it’s behaving I think the drain was below 10mA.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 8:56 pm 
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Does it work if you tape the door switch down while ducking in and out?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 2:57 pm 
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Inhibiting the door switch would seem to be a pre-requisite, as is keeping the bonnet shut.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:46 pm 
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I have dredged up an old diagnostic technique from my computing days which may be of benefit when trying to track down a rogue circuit - Binary Search (or Binary Chop).

Step one - remove half the fuses.
Check for drain. Whichever result you have, you have eliminated half the circuits.
If the drain is still there, remove half the remaining fuses...etc...etc.
Repeat until you only have a few circuits left that you can then pull individually.
If it has gone, replace half the fuses you just took out, and check again.
So on, so forth...
Because you aren't removing fuses sequentially, there are fewer "wait" periods.

Obviously SOMETIMES, by luck, you might find the faulty circuit in fewer steps.
Anyway, just a thought. I'll get around to this once I have a reliable meter and a dry day.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 1:22 pm 
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Location: Peterborough UK
Car Model: 9-5 Aero 2001,1.9TID x 2
I spent two years struggling with a current drain on my 2001 Aero 9-5.
I put up with changing the battery every week until it became unbearable and decided to invest the time.
First up I bought myself a fused multimeter that could handle up to 20A and then a battery isolator switch.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-B ... SwsE1aFZLJ
The switch allowed me to put the meter in series and place the meter on the front bumper with the bonnet shut so that I could pull fuses etc and monitor the current as the car shut down the various modules.
The cut off switch essentially protects the meter as even with a 20A fuse in place you will blow a few especially opening doors and activating locks etc.
Took me about 2 days messing about before finally nailing the problem which turned out to be a bad ECU map(along with a Tech2 DTC) leaving a by pass valve permanently live.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:50 pm 
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Aha. First, get reliable meter. I have decided that I don't like autoranging dmm's. Wobbly and confusing.

Anyway pulling all the fuses in the front rank made a bit of a difference (odd, I thought) but as soon as I took out F14 the current plummeted to 20mA. I had previously had suspicions about the cd changer, so that is now out, made up an optical loopback coupler and hopefully back in business shortly, minus CDs. As I only use the aux-in, that will be no great loss!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:01 pm 
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Thrown in the towel.

Putting the fuses (minus F14) back in gives a residual of over 1 amp. Putting F14 back in takes the residual over 3A...with the CD changer and the main Infotainment hub removed!

There is clearly something fundamental screwed in the electrics and I do not have the knowledge or instrumentation to deal with it so I guess it's off to the local Indy for Prof. Tech2 to be put on the case.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 9:03 pm 
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Car Model: 9-5 Aero est. 9-3 Carlsson
I bought an Amprobe meter a few years ago. It has a Max & Min function. You could leave it connected and unattended for an extended period while everything shuts down, and look at the minimum reading later.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 9:13 am 
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Thanks, Will. I shall look those up. I am wondering if this could be the DICE module going bad.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 10:45 am 
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CitTone wrote:
Thrown in the towel.

Putting the fuses (minus F14) back in gives a residual of over 1 amp. Putting F14 back in takes the residual over 3A...with the CD changer and the main Infotainment hub removed!

Did you remember to wait a few minutes for transient things to switch off before noting the current? I fell foul of that years ago with my CSE. I had the door cards off checking for dodgy locking motors before I noticed that every time I reconnected the battery, the courtesy light came on for 10 seconds or so :evil:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 12:30 pm 
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I kept the doors shut and waited for the current to stabilise - went inside the house for a bit (it wasn't tropical outside).
Even turned off the courtesy light (which naturally resets to "active" when you reconnect the power).
The odd bit was the way that the current dropped progressively as I took the Row 1 fuses out - as if every fused circuit was active - which reduced the current from over 5 to around 3 Amps. The draw is only acceptable with 1-14 removed. It's hard to imagine what is left in the F14 circuit that could be taking so much juice.
Maybe the ignition switch is keeping a connection when supposedly off?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 1:41 pm 
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You've gone from an initial current drain of 190mA to 3A during your testing. Something you are doing is affecting the test result.
I'd suggest that approach isn't suitable for your car, I have no idea how the electrics work on a 9-3SS. I've never looked at a circuit diagram for that model. Perhaps there is something about it that invalidates the test method that works on older cars.

I remember chasing a current drain on my 1975 Mini 1275GT many years ago. It turned out to be a faulty alternator voltage regulator which, of course, was connected even with the ignition off. A good secondhand alternator fixed it. I know lots of people have had problems with alternator failure on the 9-3SS. Worth a look?

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