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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:22 pm 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Fri Jun 07, 2013 7:10 pm
Posts: 832
Car Model: 9000 900 99
I've been very brave and begun this frightening task.

All the other components of the cooling system on my 9000 Aero have been replaced, except this one.
I had a damp carpet in the driver's footwell last winter which felt sticky, so I assumed it was antifreeze and blamed the heater matrix.
Now, there's been no dampness in the driver's footwell for some months now and I was wondering if I should leave well alone.....
...... but, I have been planning on reinstating the aircon, which I had to disconnect 18 months ago when the clutch on the compressor gave up suddenly; I've got new compressor, condensor and receiver/drier to fit before a regas.
While the AC components are out of the car, and the pipes are all disconnected, I thought I should try to change the heater matrix, since the AC pipes being free of the AC unit in the aquarium should make this difficult job much easier.

However, despite releasing the aircon. housing and moving it sideways to starboard, despite releasing the plastic tabs that connect the blower motor housing to the heater matrix housing, I still can't get the blower motor housing out to access the heater matrix.
I'm close to giving up and putting it all back together again but a chat by phone with girlysaabfan at Saabits earlier today has persuaded me to post on here for some advice on how to proceed and to then persevere.

I now know that I need to disconnect the metal wire from the heater flap on the starboard side of the blower housing but how?

I need better access to remove the blower housing from the aquarium: do I remove the plastic cover for the windscreen scuttle that doubles as the back wall for the aquarium cover?
Do I remove the heater hoses first to also improve access?

Do I need to do anything else?

Here's hoping for good advice on possibly the worst job on a 9000.....

TIA S


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:47 am
Posts: 5268
Location: Queenborough, Kent
Car Model: 9k, 9-5 Aero & a Jaaag
it's a pig of a job, I've done it 2 or 3 times (on different cars, fortunately) ... each time you'll wonder how you got it out and then wonder how you're going to get it back in again!

The wire from the heater flap is held on with a star-type fastener, you'll need to wiggle it off using long nose pliers or similar. Also take out the panel you refer to - it's the one that the MAP sensor is fixed to, IIRC.

found a guide for you (think it was the one I used first time round) here

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:51 pm 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Fri Jun 07, 2013 7:10 pm
Posts: 832
Car Model: 9000 900 99
Thanks sounds.

The MAP sensor is attached to the front of the false bulkhead/aquarium; I'm talking about the back of the aquarium.

I've seen that guide; I agree its the best I've seen but didn't explain every detail, hence my questions.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 9:53 pm
Posts: 15498
Location: Devon
Sven Rodkarl wrote:
do I remove the plastic cover for the windscreen scuttle that doubles as the back wall for the aquarium cover?

Yes. I've done it with that in place and without it. It's easier without it.
Sven Rodkarl wrote:
Do I remove the e it heater hoses first to also improve access?

It can't hurt.

It's a very tight squeeze to get it out. I'm fairly sure I have had to rotate it about its axis to get it through the available gap and still it will rub on the way out. The fact that we know it is possible should help you to keep going.
Have you seen this procedure too?
http://www.saab9000.com/procedures/vent ... blower.php

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 12:46 pm 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 5:41 pm
Posts: 912
Location: Kippen STIRLING
Car Model: 9-5 Aero Sportwagen and more
Sven,

This job is pretty much a 'right of passage' job for any 9000 owner. Best tip I got was to put duct tape over all the exposed edges so that you minimise the amount of flesh attrition ( cuts and scratches ) that are inevitable with this job. The more bits and pieces you take off, the easier it is to get it out.

Paul @ Kippen.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 8:31 pm 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
Posts: 849
Done this 3x and each time a little different. Have removed wiper mechanism/plastic scuttle cover/ heater hoses but the last time I did it I removed none of these. In general I agree with the sentiment remove as much as possible but if you remove the heater hoses you will need a long handle pair of long nose pliers. The securing clips are not easy to get a purchase. The housing WILL come out just make sure the removal bit of bulkhead panel is folded flat out of the way. I struggled every time to remove the housing but each time it would suddenly come free without me having a clue how it did. Award yourself a star for disengaging the plastic clips ok. I use a 2ft long screwdriver.
Here is a link to an interesting thread http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=130098&hilit=+matrix. I guess you have already found most of the links but Toe's post lists them. With these and Haynes you should be ok. With the a/c system empty you have a big advantage. You can disconnect the pipes from the evaporator.
Whilst everything is apart you should consider;
The rubber drain valve ( "duck" valve) at the bottom of the evap housing perishes with age and the ends stick together. Take the time to free it. If you remove it make sure it goes back in the same orientation so the end is just above the large r/h drain in the aquarium. This is so you can remove the " elephant's trunk" and poke your finger in the end should it not work properly and the evap housing fills with water. If that happens you get condensate slopping over into the blower fan leading to a chacteristic "swooshing" noise on corners and water coming through the vents into the car. It will also strain the motor and lead to failure.
There is a thick foam noise insulatin pad around the motor fan housing. This will probably be in bad shape with most of the foam having blown through the vents into the car. Replace it, it really does quieten the blower motor.
Good luck


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:41 am 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Fri Jun 07, 2013 7:10 pm
Posts: 832
Car Model: 9000 900 99
Thankyou gents for your advice & encouragement.

I had read all the posts, links and "how-tos" you referred to. Yet none of them describe the job in a step-by-step manner quite as well as other job descriptions I've read; there's room for a definitive one here but unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me to record relevant images.

I've just about done it, with the aid of a willing assistant; its not a job to do by yourself.

I did it last evening so didn't see your post beforehand, razani, so missed the opportunity to check for the condition of the foam; is this inside the blower housing?
I did make sure that the flap on the drain, which is a few inches above the steering rack, would open properly. This was in search of a jubilee clip which we've lost down there somewhere....

Getting the blower housing back in place was worse than removing it.
To help access we switched the windscreen wiper motor on until it rotated the linkage as far out of the way, i.e. upwards, as possible. (The genuine Saab workshop manual state that the bonnet and the whole of the windscreen wiper linkage should be removed!)
We made a big mistake in re-connecting the hoses to the heater matrix before refitting the blower housing, which then fouled on these hoses as we tried to force it back in. We disconnected these hoses with the blower housing halfway in once we had realised and this helped enormously.

Unfortunately we didn't avoid damage to plastic clips, which was my biggest concern and almost inevitable, bearing in mind the force required to remove the blower housing and the tight fit to remove/replace it. The two rectangular clips on the heater matrix housing, which accept the lego-man feet of the blower housing and clip the bottom of the blower housing in place, have both snapped off.
Now, the blower housing seems to be happy to sit in place without them but I'm concerned that there is a tendency now for the bottom of the blower housing to rotate forwards away from the heater matrix housing, now that the clips have broken. I propose to counteract this but wedging some thick, dense foam into the space between the lower front of the blower housing and the metal rail that the false bulkhead sits on top of. Any comments?

After that it should be straightforward.

What a job!

I assume that when assembled in the factory the aircon housing and blower motor were fitted from the cabin before the dashboard was fitted.

I just hope it all works properly, without leaks and with full function, once its all back together.

Then I can go on holiday in it in 10 days' time and rely on hot & cold air on demand..... I hope!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:41 am 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Fri Jun 07, 2013 7:10 pm
Posts: 832
Car Model: 9000 900 99
Oops!
Posted twice!
:oops:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:53 am 
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Full Pressure Turbo
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Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2006 9:10 am
Posts: 601
Location: Longton
Call me a wimp but I sold my 9000 for spares or repair in preference to attempting this job, and I'm glad I did!! :argh:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:15 am 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Fri Jun 07, 2013 7:10 pm
Posts: 832
Car Model: 9000 900 99
Mark_A wrote:
Call me a wimp but I sold my 9000 for spares or repair in preference to attempting this job, and I'm glad I did!! :argh:


Wimp!!! :D

I love my 9000 Aero, but this was tough and I wouldn't have attempted it if I didn't love it.

The 9000 is, IMHO, the best car Saab ever made, even though it may not be the most valuable, nor the coolest.
But it is well-built, long-lasting, comfortable, refined, over-engineered in a good way and fast.
That's why I drive mine everyday.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:34 am 
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Full Pressure Turbo
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Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2006 9:10 am
Posts: 601
Location: Longton
Sven Rodkarl wrote:
Mark_A wrote:
Call me a wimp but I sold my 9000 for spares or repair in preference to attempting this job, and I'm glad I did!! :argh:


Wimp!!! :D


:lol:

Had it not been rear ended a few weeks prior to the matrix starting to leak, kinking the boot floor and effectively making it a write off, it might have been another matter.

It was a very sound car in most other respects but once it got bent I lost interest in improving it :(

Hope your work is a success!

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66 El Camino
67 Camaro
75 99 Combi
78 99T
01 9-5 Aero
02 9-3 Aero
03 Octavia
04 Monaro
06 Z4 Coupé


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