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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 3:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Been to a Saab meet today and it was pointed out that my gearbox oil level was at minimum and this was the likely reason for crunchy gears when the car is cold. I have to be very careful with down changes from 3rd to 2nd, and 2nd to 1st for the first 15mins of driving. After that everything is fine.

First did a search on this site regards gearbox oil but didn't find anything - I appreciate oil topics usually bring out different views. Just got the old Haynes manual out and this ties up with a recommendation from the meet that I use Hypoid 75. The trouble is the Haynes manual says the viscosity should be SAE 75EP to API GL4 or GL5. Maybe things have moved forward in the last 40 years but I'm not finding anything that will exactly match this search and I'm left wondering what I should go for.

What modern oil should I be buying as the car isn't going out again until its topped up.

Will I also have to fill it down the gearbox oil dipstick tube.

Cheers

Jonathan


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 3:57 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:23 am
Posts: 422
Location: Leicestershire
Car Model: 1992 900i, 1984 T16S “Snufkin”
As you have a gearbox drain plug, I would drain what is in there and replace the lot.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 6:31 pm 
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Barrelling Along
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Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:13 pm
Posts: 20371
Location: Maidstone
Car Model: 9-5 Aero
Make sure you can get the filler plug off before you drain the gearbox.

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Rich
Prefers driving over polishing or reading.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
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Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Found a thread from 2009 about C900 gearbox oils and for right or wrong feel I may be best off with a semi-synthetic 75W hypoid gear box oil. Sounds like synthetic can cause problems and mineral oil could have a shorter life. Thought I'd go middle of the road with semi-synthetic instead.

Looks like I need a GL5 rating for hypoid gears and the higher pressures they generate. That seems to be what EP in the original coding means - extreme pressure.

Found one - but not pressed buy in case I get a definite recommendation in the next day or so.

Its on Amazon. I don't know the name but that goes for most of the listings anyway.
Liqui Moly 1406 TDL SAE 75 W-90 Hypoid Gear Oil.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2019 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Complete change. Local Saab specialist who brought the car back to life have told me to use mineral oil so that's what its just got.
Only filled to half way between min and max and see what it feels like.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 8:34 pm
Posts: 45
Car Model: Saab 99 Turbo
I've had the same debate recently for my 79 4 speed turbo gearbox, ended up going with a 10w40 mineral oil as originally recommended and going to see how it goes with interval changes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 1:55 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:23 am
Posts: 422
Location: Leicestershire
Car Model: 1992 900i, 1984 T16S “Snufkin”
I’d run it for a while, then drain and put proper gear oil in, with the correct EP additives.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Hopefully I've put in something appropriate as I've gone for a Comma gear oil.
Comma EP75W80 Plus Gear Oil Manual Transmission GL4

The EP is extra pressure.
The GL4 is suitable for hypoid gears
and mineral as that is what I was told to use.

I'll just have to see how the car goes and if it stops the crunching when the engines cold.

Cheers

J


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:37 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:23 am
Posts: 422
Location: Leicestershire
Car Model: 1992 900i, 1984 T16S “Snufkin”
Excellent! I’d also fill up to the max, to make sure you have oil where the chains are....


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 21, 2006 11:18 pm
Posts: 4189
Location: REMAINING UNFAITHFUL TO FACTORY STANDARD SPECIFICATIONS SINCE 1988
Car Model: OLD SAABS....NUMEROUS
ON A ROAD CAR,STANDARD GEARBOX,USE 10W 40 ENGINE OIL. IT WILL MAKE THE GEAR CHANGE ITSELF MUCH LIGHTER,ESPECIALLY FROM COLD.CHANGE THE OIL EVERY 10,000 MILES.
WHY IS YOUR OIL LEVEL FILLED TO HALF FULL? SAAB ENGINEERS SPENT A LOT RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT,TO MARK THAT DIPSTICK WITH A 'MIN' AND 'MAX' MARK?

THIS IS JUST A LITTLE ADVICE FROM EXTENSIVE EXPERIENCE,SUBJECTING STANDARD SAAB 99/900 GEARBOXES TO EXTREME COMPETITION USE IN MOTORSPORT.

MOST 99/900 TRANSMISSION FAILURES ARE DUE TO DIRTY OIL AND INCORRECT OIL LEVELS.THE 99/900 GEARBOX IS PRONE TO FLUID LOSS,OVER A PERIOD OF TIME,AS SUCH IT IS IMPERATIVE TO CHECK THE LEVEL REGULARLY.

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ENJOY IT.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:43 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:23 am
Posts: 422
Location: Leicestershire
Car Model: 1992 900i, 1984 T16S “Snufkin”
^^^ if the Birdie says so, it must be true 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Interesting that you say go for max as I found a post from somewhere that I can't find again of course - suggesting I should consider going for half full - which I have - more as a test than anything else.
I'm one of those people who like everything from coolant, engine oil, screen wash, brake fluid - you name it - on the dot of max so it was odd to do it half way.

As I can't find the half full :D post I'm leaving immediately for the garage and it will be at max within a couple of mins from now :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Cant take car for a test drive to find out what difference its made as its raining and my car is allergic to the wet.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 21, 2006 11:18 pm
Posts: 4189
Location: REMAINING UNFAITHFUL TO FACTORY STANDARD SPECIFICATIONS SINCE 1988
Car Model: OLD SAABS....NUMEROUS
Dr Rock wrote:
^^^ if the Birdie says so, it must be true 8)


NOT NECESSARILY, JUST ADVICE,AND IT'S FREE....

NO WARRANTY GIVEN OR IMPLIED,OTHER PRODUCTS AND OPINIONS ARE AVAILABLE ELSEWHERE.


Attachments:
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NEVER,SUFFER FROM INSANITY...............

ENJOY IT.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:02 pm 
JonBentley wrote:
my car is allergic to the wet.
I thought you said you had a Saab?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Shall we just say that for years I held a mistaken belief that Saab 900s didn't rust - this view came about because I hadn't actually owned one. I must have believed my Dad when I was 10 comparing his new 99 with his previous Morris and Austin offerings. :oops:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Well despite oil being topped up to max still crunching of gears when shifting down the box until warm.
No change in feel to the gear change.

By the time I got hope from a drive noticed that there was evidence of oil below the gearbox oil dipstick.
The top of the dipstick has got a very hard rubber o-ring which I guess is to either seal against dirt, or seal the oil in, or both.
Looks like I need to swap that out.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 9:10 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:23 am
Posts: 422
Location: Leicestershire
Car Model: 1992 900i, 1984 T16S “Snufkin”
How is the clutch? How much pedal play is there?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:16 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Leeds
Car Model: Saab 900 Turbo 1980
Funny you should mention it but there is. The first 5 cm of pedal travel is very slack and doesn't actually feel like any pressure is being imposed on the system.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:07 am 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:23 am
Posts: 422
Location: Leicestershire
Car Model: 1992 900i, 1984 T16S “Snufkin”
JonBentley wrote:
Funny you should mention it but there is. The first 5 cm of pedal travel is very slack and doesn't actually feel like any pressure is being imposed on the system.

Get the clutch bled and play sorted and I reckon your 'box will love you. I'm taking the blue 900 in to Carnetix next week to get the clevis pin play sorted.


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