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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:16 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Blackpool
Car Model: C900i Convertible
My 1989 900i 16V has been in garage storage for about 3 months. Before it was parked up it had recently been serviced including new fuel filter, plugs, oil+filter, air filter, HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm. I also replaced most of the small engine bay hoses with silicone pipes as many were showing signs of splitting. It was running great.

I went to move it today and it started fine as usual. I left it idling while I checked the tyre pressures and cleaned the dirt of the screens. By the time I was ready to go it was at normal running temperature.

The fault is that when you try to rev the car it will missfire. If you release the throttle it will go back to a steady idle. If you hold the throttle the engine will die. It will restart easily and go back to a steady idle. You can increase the revs gently, but anything else starts the missfire. I didn't bother to try driving it like this as it's an auto and I didn't want to get stranded so I just left it in the garage.

Any ideas as to what the fault could be? I checked all the connectors and pipes, but there's nothing obvious. I was thinking it's fuel related as I had similar symptoms on an old Ford with a blocked fuel jet that was carb though and this is Bosch fuel injection.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 10:18 am 
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Location: Chorley, Lancs, UK
Fuel pump on its way out would cause those symptoms. Did you out fresh fuel in it? I know fuel goes off after a while, but not sure how long it takes.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 1:56 pm 
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Location: Devon
Mr Burrrrt wrote:
I know fuel goes off after a while, but not sure how long it takes.

People do say that and I'm sure it is true but my 90 started and ran fine after sitting out in the elements for 8 years with the same fuel in the tank and no fresh fuel added to start it up. We have cars here that only get started every 6 months, if that, and never have to fiddle with putting new fuel in them unless they are empty.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:23 pm
Posts: 2315
Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Car Model: 900T16s, Daihatsu Charade GTti
Checked on the fuel front for mine and curiosity a while ago and apparently here in the UK we have one of the best quality petrol around and looking on the Shell website if I remember there's no difference for at least 6 months, even a year doesn't really create problems, end of the day much of it is to do with storage I guess, hope so, my Charade is broke and haven't got the cash to fix it at the moment and the petrol in it is 6 months old now but the tank is over 2/3rds full.
If it was going to be over a year in there then I would consider hot wiring the fuel pump and then running it into another car which is on the road, leave a little in the tank of course and then get a couple of Jerry cans worth in there


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:57 am
Posts: 633
Location: Norfolk nr21
Car Model: c900 verts and tin top
Crank position sensor failing. 2hr job sometimes they act up like this or will run and misfire occasionally another time they die..end of, which ever CPS needs renewing. Been there


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 6:10 pm 
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Location: Devon
16saabs wrote:
Crank position sensor failing.

Could be. If it turns out to be the case, we stock it here:
http://www.saabits.com/electrical/saab- ... h=165_166&

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 12:26 pm
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What injection unit does it have? Only asking as the bosch mechanical metering units gum up. The test was firing each injector into a large container by hot wiring the injector relay.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 3:40 pm 
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The rubber can fail under the fuel pump in the tank, but I would suspect it wouldn't run at all andyou can hear the pump priming up normally on the first turn of the ignition.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 5:40 pm 
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Location: Devon
rallyv4 wrote:
What injection unit does it have?

He says it's 16V so I assumed LH.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 5:37 pm 
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Location: Glenrothes, Fife
Car Model: 95, 99, 900, 9000, 93, Sonett
If it's the 900i with the EZK, there are a few possibilities.

1. Poor fuel.
2. Fuel pressure regulator failing.
3. Fuel pump failing.
4. Failing CPS.
5. Failing EZK control ECU.

Our MY89 c900i has a failing EZK, which results in very retarded ignition & poor running when hot.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 4:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:16 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Blackpool
Car Model: C900i Convertible
I'm still stuck with this problem, my back injury means I can't work on the car much anymore and I'm wondering if there's a garage that the car could be transported to for repair.

So far it's had a known good air flow meter swapped over, new throttle position sensor, new coil and ignition amplifier and it's still the same. The way it coughs and splutters and cuts out if you suddenly open the throttle seems like fuel starvation but it could be the CPS as I know they can cause some odd running issues.

The longer it's left after cutting out the longer it will run for before the symptoms reoccur. I noticed that it seems to have a FSE adjustable fuel pressure regulator fitted and I did look for an original Bosch one to swap out but couldn't seem to find one.

I don't think my back would be up to the job of replacing the CPS and I'm not sure I have the tools/skill to get the pulley off myself. Does anyone know of any good garages near Blackpool that might be able to diagnose and fix the fault? My local garage had a look when they did the MOT (which it passed as the fault usually takes 20 minutes of running before it first occurs) but couldnt fix it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:16 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Blackpool
Car Model: C900i Convertible
Update - one of my friends came round with a fuel pressure gauge and an old Gunson strobe light. With them both connected up the fuel pressure stayed spot on all of the time but when the fault developed the strobe light showed that the missfire was because there was intermittant spark to the plugs. Seeing as the coil and ignition amplifier have already been replaced we decided to go ahead and replace the crankshaft sensor.

Currently I'm waiting for the sensor to arrive. I've ordered it from an electrical wholesaler as most places seem to be out of stock of the kits right now. The crankshaft oil seal was so worn it fell out when the front pulley came off so I've ordered one of those too. It's leaked from there since I bought it so this is an ideal opportunity to sort that out too.

Fingers crossed that this sorts the problem when I manage to put it back together. I'd never have got it apart by myself as I can't stay bent over for very long due to my bad back.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 1:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:16 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Blackpool
Car Model: C900i Convertible
So my SAAB 900i still wont run and at this stage I'm fairly close to scrapping it :evil:

The symptom is it will idle fine hot or cold and rev fine cold but once the engine has warmed up (fan cutting in a few times) it will cough and splutter when you rev it and if you hold the throttle open it will die.

I've had an old xenon timing light on the plug leads and can confirm that it is the spark that is vanising when revved, it goes from the centre line of the coil, not just one lead.

The last thing I replaced was the hall sensor that lives behind the crankshaft pulley. Prior to this it's had a new coil and ignition amplifier, new distributor cap, arm and leads, new throttle position sensor and a known good air flow meter. None of these has made any difference. At first I assumed it was fuel, so currently it's got a pressure gauge on the line, and is holding 3 bar.

So what could be causing the spark to die off, but only when the engine is revved (and hot)? I'm at a loss, the car has been sat for over 6 months because of this and even the local garage couldn't figure it out, although they are not a specialist.

Please help :cry:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 5:11 am 
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Location: REMAINING UNFAITHFUL TO FACTORY STANDARD SPECIFICATIONS SINCE 1988
Car Model: OLD SAABS....NUMEROUS
TRY THE OLD HT LEADS ,THEN THE OLD DIZZY CAP,THEN THE OLD ROTOR ARM BACK ON IT.....ONE BY ONE

'NEW' PARTS ARE NOT 'ALWAYS' IN PERFECT CONDITION.

IF THE CAR RAN FINE BEFORE YOU LAID IT UP ? AND IT WILL NOW,NOT REV WHEN HOT,EVERYTHING IS POINTING TOWARD ELECTRICAL.......

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NEVER,SUFFER FROM INSANITY...............

ENJOY IT.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:16 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Blackpool
Car Model: C900i Convertible
I've put the old leads back on and that didn't help. The old rotor arm was the wrong one and had been glued in place as it was loose on the distributor shaft so I don't have them. I've ordered a set from a different manufacturer to see if that makes any difference. I'm also trying to get hold of an EZK ecu to see if it could be that.

I checked the wiring from the coil to the ignition unit with a multimeter to see if there was a high resistance or some sort of short circuit but everything checked out.

If anyone thinks they can fix this I'm happy to pay but I don't know where to go or who to trust with a problem like this.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:48 pm 
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Full Pressure Turbo

Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:57 am
Posts: 633
Location: Norfolk nr21
Car Model: c900 verts and tin top
check you air vents are changing when you adjust the circular control, as if the back has come off the switch you are sucking air, big time, and any extra air will mess it up, as more air than fuel, also make sure your oil filler is fixed on properly.
Pinch the pipe that goes into the car for/to the vacuum control; and then try revving it.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:16 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Blackpool
Car Model: C900i Convertible
Fixed at last, I replaced the 'new' (about a year ago but probably only a few hundred miles driven) rotor arm and distributor cap. The cap looked the same but interestingly the rotor arm (intermotor this time) looked quite different. It's been running for over an hour now and no sign of any missfire. :D


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 4:43 am 
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Joined: Sun May 21, 2006 11:18 pm
Posts: 4073
Location: REMAINING UNFAITHFUL TO FACTORY STANDARD SPECIFICATIONS SINCE 1988
Car Model: OLD SAABS....NUMEROUS
BIRDIEMANGO wrote:
TRY THE OLD HT LEADS ,THEN THE OLD DIZZY CAP,THEN THE OLD ROTOR ARM BACK ON IT.....ONE BY ONE

'NEW' PARTS ARE NOT 'ALWAYS' IN PERFECT CONDITION.

IF THE CAR RAN FINE BEFORE YOU LAID IT UP ? AND IT WILL NOW,NOT REV WHEN HOT,EVERYTHING IS POINTING TOWARD ELECTRICAL.......



HMMMM,GLAD TO SEEM YOU HAVE FIXED IT.....


A LOT OF TIME, EFFORT AND MONEY&FRUSTRATION, COULD HAVE BEEN SAVED HERE...... :wink:

THE FIRST RULE OF FAULT-FINDING,ESPECIALLY WHEN A FAULT IS 'CREATED' ?

''WHAT HAVE I CHANGED?''

JUST AS A CAUTIONARY NOTE,TO ANY OTHER READERS ?

AFTER 30 YEARS EXPERIENCE........

DO NOT !!! EVER,EVER FIT .....''INTERMOTOR'' ELECTRICAL PARTS.......

BOSCH ONLY !!



SO 'AS' STATED ABOVE..........


'NEW' PARTS ARE NOT 'ALWAYS' IN PERFECT CONDITION.
:wall: :haynes: :cen:



POOR RUNNING ISSUES ON 96/99/900 ARE RELATED TO THE 'IGNITION ELECTRICAL SYSTEM'.......FIRST AND FOREMOST,ESPECIALLY ONCE THE ENGINE BECOMES WARM,AND PUT UNDER LOAD....
ALWAYS START,WITH THE SIMPLEST,OF THE IGNITION SYSTEM COMPONENTS FIRST.......BEFORE CONDEMNING, CRANK SENSORS,TPS AND ECU'S......

IGNITION AMPLIFIERS,ONLY EVER WORK,OR THEY DON'T...THAT IS JUST MY HUMBLE.... EXPERIENCE

REMEMBER,WE ARE HERE TO HELP..... :roll:

WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR DIZZY CAP AND ROTOR ARM FROM?

INCIDENTALLY,WE HAVE BEEN HERE BEFORE,AND DOUBTLESS,WE WILL BE HERE AGAIN......

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=177926&hilit=HT+LEADS

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:51 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:32 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: Bath/ Dublin
Car Model: 8V-V4
I second Birdie's "Bosch only" call.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 10:18 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:16 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Blackpool
Car Model: C900i Convertible
Lesson learned, I bought the rotor arm and cap from a known SAAB parts supplier so had assumed they would be OK (my bad). I couldnt put the old rotor arm back on in this case as the previous owner had glued it on, I suspect it wasn't the right one either. Out of interest what's the issue with Intermotor parts? In this case it's working better than the one I was sent from the SAAB parts supplier.

At least while I was replacing the crankshaft sensor I finally replaced the leaking oil seal. :oops:


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