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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 3:33 pm 
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Following on from our previous popular thread...

My eldest is equipping a new flat and wanted an under-counter freezer. Found one nearby on FaceBay at sensible price. Got it home, looked it over.

Why, when designing an appliance to fit under a counter, would one decide that a sensible place to put the temperature control and power indicator light is on the BACK PANEL....?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 3:35 pm 
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Surely it is obvious, everybody puts their freezer under the counter with the door towards the wall, don't they?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 4:45 pm 
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That's pretty bad!

Most of the problems I've encountered on appliances have been down to accountants taking the designs and making them using the cheapest possible parts.

My last fridge freezer was really well designed, but it was clear that parts had been skimped on. Like the cheap capacitors that caused the control boards to fail after 3 years or so.
The only design fault was with the door seal which kept getting jammed and twisted because the hinge was difficult to adjust. That meant it leaked and the evaporator kept icing up more than the defrost heater could clear.

If they'd used hot-gas defrost or reverse cycle running to defrost it would have been better, but that would have been more expensive to build. See aforementioned comments about accountants.



The MIL's tumble dryer has some bits that can't be easily cleaned of fluff. Thats pretty poor design, and not what I would expect from that brand.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 5:53 pm 
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The one appliance that I consider poorly designed is the domestic boiler. The idea of using a light allow heat exchanger instead of cast iron may well save money but negates some of the advantages by requiring the system to run a cool down cycle because otherwise the heat exchanger distorts. Never mind we won't be allowed boilers in future so it is rather academic.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 6:22 pm 
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my vaillant boiler is a total load of tosh
first time i adjusted the rad dial it came apart and im not a ham fisted oaf
person come to fit new dial he gave me half a dozen of em as theyre so carp
it has a new bit every year
i wouldnt have a free one if i had a choice but i didnt have a choice
cheaper yes do i want it no
id have an old fashioned thing any day if i could do
re lecy goods i wish they didnt al come with a moulded carp pug
theyre total garbage and ive got loads of em from buying loads of amps etc
same with free garbage interconects ive got a box full of garbage leads great

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 6:26 pm 
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GeoffR wrote:
Surely it is obvious, everybody puts their freezer under the counter with the door towards the wall, don't they?


Nurse! He's skipped his meds again!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 6:43 pm 
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Buttons. Specifically tactile feedback from buttons. A long time ago I read a piece in Car Magazine that praised the buttons on a particular Japanese hifi brand, Sony it might have been. Not so soft and not too clicky with just the amount of feel that translates into you knowing that you have pressed that particular button. Same feel was carried over into dashboard buttons in certain car brands.

We have a very expensive AEG washing machine and the control panel is a crazy mix of buttons that you push and capacitive touch buttons all in the same space, no consistent user interface design and certainly no consideration of human factors. There is no feedback from the capacitive buttons and the 'proper' buttons are so spongy and imprecise that eventually we will probably push too hard and damage the circuit board behind.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 6:44 pm 
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CitTone wrote:
GeoffR wrote:
Surely it is obvious, everybody puts their freezer under the counter with the door towards the wall, don't they?


Nurse! He's skipped his meds again!


Don't even go there :argh:

Carry on, and Johno & Rob Beard will be back on this with aplomb. :wall: :argh: :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 6:46 pm 
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proper stereos dont need buttons
but theryre all covered in buttons
why dont remotes all kinda have there buttons all in the same places eh
could make life so much simpler

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 7:50 pm 
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scanditurbo wrote:
proper stereos dont need buttons


My Yamaha A320 amplifier, still going strong, bought in the 1980s recently replaced the volume potentiometer.

On/off switch
Input selector buttons for tape/video-aux/CD/tuner/phono
Full size headphone socket.

Image

That is all it needs.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 9:00 pm 
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made in japan so proper job
got one of these still all its existing bits not one thing replaced
https://www.audio-high-store.com/wp-con ... A-1212.jpg
doubles as a room heater

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 9:18 pm 
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I get irritated with the short cables on toasters, kettles, microwaves etc. these days.

And the difficulty of catching the water when removing some washing machine filters. I don’t have any trays with sub half-inch lips.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 9:47 pm 
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I have some electronic kitchen scales. Just a flat plate of glass which acts as a touch screen. The display is in the touch screen surface. If you put anything large on them, you can't read the weight!! :( They look smart, but I doubt the designer has ever used them. In addition, if you spill any liquid on the screen, the chances are that it will act as a finger hold and turn the scales off.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 10:32 pm 
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all modern scales are pants

me mates got a pure evoke dab radio i gave him because it was pants here
when you go to adjust its setting the screen goes dark because it thinks its night from your shadow
and you twist to choose then press to select and the radios too light so falls over
hence giving it to him
saying that it has worked faultlessly for years at 12 hours a day because hes retired
i screwed it to the top of a speaker so it dont fall over

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 8:00 am 
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I have a Zanussi cooker with an induction hob. There is a touch screen panel in the middle of the front edge of the hob. If you put anything on the panel the cooker bleeps. If you spill water, or if a pan boils over, and water gets on the panel the hob shuts down! Sorry Mr (or Ms) Zanussi but water gets spilled on hobs, it is inevitable, you need to either move the touch screen panel or make it immune to anything but a deliberate touch.

Then there is the grill. It has two settings, large area and small area, that's it no means of having either area at less than 100%. My old Thorne cooker had a variable grill but it appears this isn't needed any more.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 12:27 pm 
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This is my office amp..

Most of the buttons are unused.

Tuner (for the Arcam Delta 280)
CD for the CD player
Tape monitor for the PC input

And Mute (to keep the volume down/more manageable).

Volume pot needs changing, right channel is very iffy

But a great little amp even at only 30w a channel

Image

Andrew Sinclair wrote:
scanditurbo wrote:
proper stereos dont need buttons


My Yamaha A320 amplifier, still going strong, bought in the 1980s recently replaced the volume potentiometer.

On/off switch
Input selector buttons for tape/video-aux/CD/tuner/phono
Full size headphone socket.

Image

That is all it needs.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 12:31 pm 
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On the flip side, my Arcam FMJ A22 DAVE has a failed IR reciever which is a real pain

Arcam want £320 to service the device (if it's still serviceable/supported...) some parts not easily available if it's the control chip rather than the IR recv....

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 12:32 pm 
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Car Models: OG 9-3 SE
I had one of those, as you said great little amp.

I'm sure old Watts are more powerful than modern Watts, I also had a NAD 3020 rated at 20w rms and it absolutely rocked, even with big hard to drive speakers. Modern amps seem to need at 80 Watts to make themselves heard

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 1:16 pm 
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Gaz38 wrote:
I had one of those, as you said great little amp.

I'm sure old Watts are more powerful than modern Watts, I also had a NAD 3020 rated at 20w rms and it absolutely rocked, even with big hard to drive speakers. Modern amps seem to need at 80 Watts to make themselves heard

Speaker efficiency plays a large part.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 2:23 pm 
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3020 epic amps not pretty on the eye but you dont listen with the eyes do ya
ive sold about 100 i reckon back when they were ugly and cheap
used to pick em up for a tenner regular at boot sales

my best ugly but good and bought cheap is a
suz-400 technics the dark one google it ugly as
bought for a fiver used for 6 months left in cupboard for years 5.00 pounds
its mint and god its got some bass
i bought me mum a aa class technics when i was 20 now 45 never missed a day in its life
linear phase speakers still rocking on they were ten quid in about 1995
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_libra ... -t10.shtml
ive offered her so many upgrades shes really attached to it

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